[See A DAY TRIP TO ANGERS link for pictures]
Monsieur and Madame Dalac, our Saumur hotel owners, recommended Angers for a day trip, and as it had been one of my choices upon researching possible places in the Anjou area, we decided to go. A 20-minute walk to the train station, a 20-minute train ride, et voilà – Angers. Once we directionally oriented ourselves at the station, we found that the historic downtown area of this bustling university city was a mere 10 minutes away.
Near the Château was a little tourist “train,” much like the one we took in Avignon two years ago on our trip to France; it gives a wonderful ride around the historic centre so one can learn where some of the major sites are: St. Maurice Cathédrâle, the Château, the timber-framed houses, fountains, gardens, and statues. Two British couples (from just outside Bath) and a French grandmother and her adorable 4- year old granddaughter were on the train with us, and we all had a great fun. The Brits, retired couples, possessed the typical dry humor and friendliness (particularly the men, with whom Tim related quite well), and the little French girl leaned out to all passerbys with a wave and a “Bon jour” or “cuckoo” – all with a smile. Abbey had already met our multilingual driver in the postcard store; he too had a devilish sense of humor, teasing Emma and little French girl. The guide materials were in multiple languages, including English, making it easier for us to learn basic information as we went along.
After the train excursion, we explored the 12th century Château for several hours. Like most castles, it was built over many years and upon the foundation of older fortresses, and this one was “completed” during the 15th century eign of René I, the last duke of Anjou (Loire region of Saumur, Angers, Chinon, and a few other places). The Château has had a checkered history: from creative, expensive renovations by René I to a prison established by Louis XIV to an official historic monument in the late 19th century to German munitions base during WWII, at which time it incurred damages from Allied attacks.
Lovely gardens (which once had an aviary and bestiary), wonderful rampart walk with turrets or towers that featured magnificent views of the city and surrounding countryside, and historic rooms from centuries back – all these provided us with a sense of the ups and downs of castle living: huge fireplaces but drafty windows; tapestried walls but cold floors; fantastic views but watch out for enemy arrows! Tapestries were popular for functional reasons: they provided warmth in cold weather. However, they also signified wealth and status. Many of the tapestries were woven in Paris and Flanders; weavers followed the artists’ full size designs, and most of these tapestries were bigger than a 12x12 rug.
One of the most interesting areas of the Château was a recently built room that features nearly a hundred tapestries depicting 14th century artists’ depictions of the last day (literally), aptly called The Apocalypse Tapestries. Influenced by the Apostle John’s visions as recounted in the book of Revelations, these interpretations present dire scenes of sinners’ fates, the rewards for the elect or saved, the earth’s kings laying down their crowns to The King (Christ), slaying the dragon, the fall of Babylon, and so forth, all culminating in the New Jersusalem. Viewing these scenes, I couldn’t help but think of Dante’s Inferno and the progression of eternal punishments “Dante” and his guide Virgil witnessed as they descended into hell’s abyss. One quickly senses how much such images enabled the Church and powerful to control the masses. I wouldn’t have wanted to have messed with that dragon!!!
After the Château, we went to St. Maurice, the Gothic church built in the 12th century. More tapestries, incredible wooden carvings that unfortunately were too dark for effective pictures with our cameras. The 100 or so stone steps from the front of the church lead down to a fountain and square, enjoyed by students and families alike. The timbered framed houses, much like those in Saumur, reminded me of the architecture in Strasbourg in the Alsace-Lorraine, which is heavily influenced by German style.
Well, so much for the history, which is remarkable for the four of us but common for the people here. Angers is a fairly large city, yet it exudes charm and warmth. Mothers or fathers with children in tow slip in and out of various stores purchasing foods for evening dinner. Workers hurry to either reopen the shop closed for a lengthy lunch or to home after a full day. The many university students contribute to the atmosphere as they gather on the steps of the church to play guitars or sit around the fountain or Château’s greens to talk and do school work. Accustomed to tourists from all over, Angers welcomes all. Observing the bustlers and amblers, we enjoy a late afternoon tea (and a mousse chocolat for Abbey and Emma). All too soon, we catch the train back to Saumur.
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