Spring is here in the Veneto. Though nights are often chilly, the sun warms the afternoons. Fruit trees are blooming as are spring flowers. Mt. Grappa is still snow-covered at the top, but below the tree line, green gradually emerges. Looking out our kitchen/dining room window, I see a neighbor work his garden patch in preparation for planting. I remember how full and bountiful it was last fall. Everyday, he was tending it diligently; with his work now, I am certain this year the garden will be as productive. Yesterday, he had it roto-tilled. I watched as the men, both of whom are probably in their late 60's, begin the process. Despite the handwork to turn over the ground, the roto-tiller caught several times, but working together, the men finished quite quickly, and the soil is now smooth and ready for planting. I’ll have to check today to see what is next. Tim was asking about him and the garden the other day; we both enjoyed watching the progress last fall.
It is travel week 2 this week. By late Friday, most of the students had left for various places; some planned to leave early Saturday, though we met Jonathan Holmes at the Sunday market. He was leaving for Palermo on Monday. Originally we had planned to go to Switzerland this week. However, a re-evaluation of the budget revealed that, with our France, England, and Wales tour at semester end, we should postpone expensive Switzerland for another time. Also, I looked at the stack of reports and other assignments on my desk, the uncompleted itinerary for France and the UK with Deena, and the dust bunnies no longer contained in the apartment’s corners – best to stay put, get work done, and tour locally. After all, the Veneto is a beautiful, diverse region – and spring is here.
Abbey, Emma, and I are also getting ready for Tim to visit. Emma has been e-mailing him lists of what to bring over, though I remind her that what comes here must go back, and with our 3-week trip through France and the UK before heading back to the States, she might want to consider luggage weight. Memories of our lugging 7 checked-in bags and 8 carry-on’s back in August quickly come to mind. “Lugging” – an appropriate term, no doubt from the word “luggage.” Yes, 15 bags in total we had. I don’t care what Rick Steves says; it is IMPOSSIBLE to pack for nine months of living abroad in a small carry-on, especially with school books. Nevertheless, traveling light is best. What we don’t need for our last few weeks here will go back with Tim or be shipped from the local post office. We will have to get organized and packed up to know what to send. Well, as Scarlet O’Hara would say, “I’ll think about that tomorrow.” Besides, it’s a warm, sunny day – and spring is here!
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 9
This week the Intercultural Communications students are presenting (via slides) a comparison/contrast of Italian and American culture. Each student selected a topic and researched the differences and similarities between the two countries. Topics include government, sports, music, weddings, cuisine, nightlife, education, business, etiquette, fashion, holidays, television, immigration, and gender. It is often surprising what one learns by paying attention to the “everyday” aspects of life. As with other assignments for the course, this one too prompts discussion based on not only the researched information but also the personal experience of living in another country.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 6
January, February, and March are popular months at CIMBA for birthdays. Not only Abbey and Emma, but also Jessica Carrese, Tori Scheidt, Meaghan Hinder, Tommy Thompson, Matt Hanrahan, Marta Crabbia, Stephanie Herr, Graham Ryan, Kristina Rood, Kelly Heesch most of them in February. Who else am I forgetting? There were several more, surely. Anyway, we celebrated a few with “Happy Birthday’s” sung (usually in multiple keys at once) in classes or at lunch. Some we celebrated at the local pizzeria, Al Sole. Luigini, who owns it with her husband Fabbio, graciously lets us use a side room for larger get-togethers that we can decorate with balloons and Buon Compleanno (happy birthday) banners.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Lucca & Pisa, Tuscany
Not a travel weekend, nevertheless the wanderlust struck, and I definitely wanted to visit Lucca and Pisa before we left Italy. Besides, with spring fever hitting me, I felt the need to go south, and what better place at this time than Tuscany. Friday, 13 March (yes, I know – the 13th!!), Emma and I headed toward Castelfranco to catch the train to Padua and then to Prato and finally to Lucca. Abbey was assistant trainer for the LIFE executive program for the weekend, so it was just the two of us.
Not having made the ticket reservations beforehand as I usually do, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make the connections. However, the automated ticket machines proved quite easy to use for the regional trains. The friendly Trenitalia ticket man quickly booked us the IC (InnerCity) from Padua to Prato and saved us money by recommending a different Eurostar from Florence to Padua on our return. As a result, we enjoyed a 50% discount!! He has waited on me several times and is always pleasant, remembering always the previous bookings he has made for us.
Other than a fast connect at Prato Centrale for Lucca (Emma afraid that I wasn’t going to get on the train in time), we had an uneventful trip, arriving in Lucca about 1:30. Spring was definitely here. In the Veneto, traces can be seen with crocuses, daffodils, forsythia, and early blooming fruit trees; however, the magnolias and early summer flowers are visible everywhere in this part of Tuscany. The air smelled like spring – fresh, clean, warm.
Emma and I went first to the TI (Tourist Information) by the train station for a city map, and the man gave us a lot of information about sights to see and events. Breakfast having been a so-so sandwich on the train, we stopped at a pleasant caffe/ristorante just inside the city walls. The weather was warm and sunny, so we were able to enjoy eating outside. Emma had one of her favorits, penne all’arrabiata (red sauce with pepperocini), and I had fresh salad with grilled vegetables. Afterward, we made our way to Piazza Napolean (he was here in Lucca too!!!) and Piazza San Michele, turning onto Via Roma and then onto Via Cenami to our hotel, Al Tuscany, a bed & breakfast.
Isabella, the afternoon staff person, greeted us and showed us to our room – complete with a kitchenette. Because the building the hotel was in was undergoing renovations, we had a back room that was quiet and roomy. Emma and I quickly settled in, and then we began exploring this delightful town, scouting out restaurants for dinner. Frances Mayes is right: in Italy, one is no more through with lunch than he or she is already contemplating dinner!!
Lucca is charming. About the size of Siena and as old, it has less the Medieval characteristics that Siena has. Or perhaps, those characteristics are defined differently because of geography. Both are walled cities – with walls intact. Both are old cities, with ties to the Roman era and before. However, while hilltop Siena’s steep grades to keep those leg muscles in shape and has retained its somber, grey architecture in true Medieval fashion, Lucca’s streets undulate and its impressive buildings complement the many budding gardens within the city walls. Siena seems to enclose itself, separated from the Tuscan countryside; Lucca embraces the gentle green hills that slope westward towards the sea and eastward towards Florence. I loved both cities, so I suspect my appreciation for Lucca was connected in part to spring fever.
The Guinigi family who put Lucca on the Renaissance map with the silk industry evidently loved gardens. Even their tower rooftop features a garden with full-sized trees. The walls of the city are wide, about 3 miles around. To ensure enemies were unable to camouflage themselves, the Luccans cleared several hundred feet of brush and trees. Today, this immense circular green serves as a field for hikers and pet owners. The wall also features arrow-shaped jut-outs, that once were for weapons and defense and now provide locals and tourists with glorious views. On this warm Friday afternoon, Emma and I enjoyed a walk on the ramparts with spring-filled Tuscan hills and plains on one side and terra-cotta Luccan rooftops on the other.
We found small pizzeria-ristorante for dinner, deciding to bypass the more expensive trattorias. Chiana beef is popular here; remembering how exquisite it was in Cortona, I ordered the taglia al rucola (rare sliced beef on arugula with garlic and olive oil). Emma opted for a hearty Tuscan soup, much like the ribollita of Siena – a vegetable soup with chunks of bread. Back at the hotel, we read for a bit – Emma with Mathilda and Diary of a Wimpy Kid; I with Bella Tuscany.
Saturday was another beautiful day – perfect for the antique market in Lucca’s streets. Like most markets, there was the usual “junk”; however, the antique markets also draw some vendors with quality merchandise. I saw many things that I would love to have – but no way to transport them. Lucky for the checkbook!
We found San Giovanni church, where the Puccini concert is held every evening at 7:00. Our hotel provided us with complimentary tickets, so we decided to do the concert tonight. Then on to the Duomo, San Martino, an incredibly big, beautiful church. Because it is being renovated, inside and out, the scaffolding and curtains discouraged picture takers, so I bought a postcard depicting what the church looks like “normally.”
After San Martino, we walked to Torre Guinigi, the Guinigi family’s tower. Rather than castles, many of the wealthy, powerful people of the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods built towers as residence; these were, essentially rooms upon rooms with the stairs connecting them. The Torre Guinigi is not particularly tall; however, its 270+ steps certainly provide exercise. Can you imagine just going out the front door to discover you’d left something on the top floor?? Most of the tower’s steps were the original stone, but towards the top, steel risers had been installed. Quite a few frescoes still remain, particularly on the lower levels, as does a huge fireplace, perhaps one that was used for cooking. The highlight, however, is the rooftop garden, complete with two tall trees. The view of Lucca and its environs are beautiful from there, especially the wall.
Time for lunch, which again, we enjoyed outside. Then bike riding on the ramparts! The flat top of the wide walls is easily accessible from the several porti, or gates into the city. It’s a local favorite for joggers, walkers, and bikers – and obviously a draw for tourists as well, particularly on such a beautiful day. Nearly 3 miles around, the 16th century walls offer shady tree-lined areas and warm, sunny picnic spots on the 8 or so arrow-shaped jut-outs. After 2 times around, Emma and I regained some strength with a gelatto break, and then did another go-around before returning our bikes.
Perhaps the highlight of the day was the Puccini concert. Lucca is the composer’s birthplace, and his house is a small museum that contains among other items the piano that he used to compose Turandot, one of his famous operas. Sadly, the museum is temporarily closed; evidently some family dispute with either the city or among themselves. Anyway, the city celebrates Puccini with a nightly concert in San Giovanni church, featuring arias from his works plus selections from other composers such as Mozart, Verdi, and Mascagni. A soprano and a tenor were the soloists this evening, and the pianist was the music director. The soprano was incredible; she was French, although most of the performers are Italian singers, all of whom are professional. Her voice was strong and full but with a rich clarity that prevented any heaviness in tone some sopranos have. One of the numbers was “O mio babbino caro” from Gianni Schicchi, one of the songs that Abbey does; also songs from La Traviata and La Boheme.
Next morning after breakfast – off to Pisa, about 20-minute train ride. Again I panicked Emma inadvertently by getting off the train at the 1st Pisa station (which would have been alright) instead of Centrale (main station); I barely made it back on the train. Since it was Sunday, no TI was open for a full map of the town, I was glad to have brought the Rick Steves’ map from his travel book. Set along the Arno River, Pisa features the tiny 12th century church, Santa Maria della Spina, whose Gothic spikey spires are more typical of the grand duomos, such as the one in Milan. On Sunday several of the streets are pedestrian only, making an afternoon passagiata pleasant for everyone. Also of interest is Piazza dei Cavalieri with a frescoed palace and statue of Cosimo I de Medici (with an intense expression), ruler of Pisa in the 16th century.
Pisa was a major power during the Middle Ages; its proximity to the sea presented an advantage that its neighbors, Florence and Siena, did not have – a harbor not far from the city proper. However, as the many city-states shuffled for power and independence, Genoa would become the mightier port city by the early 14th century. During the Renaissance, Pisa was controlled by Florence (hence the Medici statute) – a good thing for art but bad for governing independence. Today its claim to fame is, of course, its leaning tower and its Duomo and Baptistry, all in the Campo dei Miracoli, Field of Miracles.
Approaching the Field of Miracles from Via Santa Maria, I was immediately awestruck with the whiteness of the buildings – all marble. The style is called Pisan Romanesque, according to the guidebooks, a blending of the weightier features a Romanesque design with the white marble and an airiness in the design space. Definitely celestial! I was also amazed to find that the Leaning Tower didn’t lean – ahem, from my perspective. A quick few steps revealed just how much it does indeed lean!
The Tower’s slant is due to the sandy soil. Built at the end of the 12th century, the Tower evidently begin its sideways descent before construction was completed.; today it is nearly 18 feet from vertical! As an iconic symbol of Pisa, the Tower has attracted people throughout the ages from all countries., including Galileo who used it to conduct velocity experiments. 15€ gets one to the top for a lovely view of the city; however, the price as well as the warnings about the slant and rather unsubstantial railings deter some people – myself included. Brunellschi’s Dome in Florence was well worth the 8€ and 476 steps for the stunning panorama WITH secure railings. I wasn’t so sure that I could do Pisa’s Tower!
After lunch in the warm sunshine, Emma and slowly meandered back, stopping to watch crewing on the Arno. With an eye to the pocket book, we bought some cheese, crackers, fruit, and a Chianti (for me) at a small market, and ate in while I finished grading student reports.
Monday morning we were to catch an 8:33 train to Florence, stopping there to pick up a Tuscan pitcher that Kathy wanted. Marina, the B&B manager/owner, prepared breakfast a little early so that we would have something. Her grandparents were from Lucca; however, Marina was born and raised in Scotland and speaks with a decided Scottish brogue. She is friendly and runs a pleasant, comfortable establishment that I would recommend. We said our goodbyes, walked the short distance to the station, and were off to Florence.
Checking our bag at the Florence station, Emma and I explored the Straw Market as we made our way to the pottery shop on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio and Arno. Errand completed, we stopped for lunch at the Duomo caffe where we had eaten last fall, and then back to get our luggage and catch the train to Padua and then to Castelfranco. By 5:30, we were home, catching up on news with Abbey, and thinking about school the next day.
Already, I miss Tuscany.
Not having made the ticket reservations beforehand as I usually do, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make the connections. However, the automated ticket machines proved quite easy to use for the regional trains. The friendly Trenitalia ticket man quickly booked us the IC (InnerCity) from Padua to Prato and saved us money by recommending a different Eurostar from Florence to Padua on our return. As a result, we enjoyed a 50% discount!! He has waited on me several times and is always pleasant, remembering always the previous bookings he has made for us.
Other than a fast connect at Prato Centrale for Lucca (Emma afraid that I wasn’t going to get on the train in time), we had an uneventful trip, arriving in Lucca about 1:30. Spring was definitely here. In the Veneto, traces can be seen with crocuses, daffodils, forsythia, and early blooming fruit trees; however, the magnolias and early summer flowers are visible everywhere in this part of Tuscany. The air smelled like spring – fresh, clean, warm.
Emma and I went first to the TI (Tourist Information) by the train station for a city map, and the man gave us a lot of information about sights to see and events. Breakfast having been a so-so sandwich on the train, we stopped at a pleasant caffe/ristorante just inside the city walls. The weather was warm and sunny, so we were able to enjoy eating outside. Emma had one of her favorits, penne all’arrabiata (red sauce with pepperocini), and I had fresh salad with grilled vegetables. Afterward, we made our way to Piazza Napolean (he was here in Lucca too!!!) and Piazza San Michele, turning onto Via Roma and then onto Via Cenami to our hotel, Al Tuscany, a bed & breakfast.
Isabella, the afternoon staff person, greeted us and showed us to our room – complete with a kitchenette. Because the building the hotel was in was undergoing renovations, we had a back room that was quiet and roomy. Emma and I quickly settled in, and then we began exploring this delightful town, scouting out restaurants for dinner. Frances Mayes is right: in Italy, one is no more through with lunch than he or she is already contemplating dinner!!
Lucca is charming. About the size of Siena and as old, it has less the Medieval characteristics that Siena has. Or perhaps, those characteristics are defined differently because of geography. Both are walled cities – with walls intact. Both are old cities, with ties to the Roman era and before. However, while hilltop Siena’s steep grades to keep those leg muscles in shape and has retained its somber, grey architecture in true Medieval fashion, Lucca’s streets undulate and its impressive buildings complement the many budding gardens within the city walls. Siena seems to enclose itself, separated from the Tuscan countryside; Lucca embraces the gentle green hills that slope westward towards the sea and eastward towards Florence. I loved both cities, so I suspect my appreciation for Lucca was connected in part to spring fever.
The Guinigi family who put Lucca on the Renaissance map with the silk industry evidently loved gardens. Even their tower rooftop features a garden with full-sized trees. The walls of the city are wide, about 3 miles around. To ensure enemies were unable to camouflage themselves, the Luccans cleared several hundred feet of brush and trees. Today, this immense circular green serves as a field for hikers and pet owners. The wall also features arrow-shaped jut-outs, that once were for weapons and defense and now provide locals and tourists with glorious views. On this warm Friday afternoon, Emma and I enjoyed a walk on the ramparts with spring-filled Tuscan hills and plains on one side and terra-cotta Luccan rooftops on the other.
We found small pizzeria-ristorante for dinner, deciding to bypass the more expensive trattorias. Chiana beef is popular here; remembering how exquisite it was in Cortona, I ordered the taglia al rucola (rare sliced beef on arugula with garlic and olive oil). Emma opted for a hearty Tuscan soup, much like the ribollita of Siena – a vegetable soup with chunks of bread. Back at the hotel, we read for a bit – Emma with Mathilda and Diary of a Wimpy Kid; I with Bella Tuscany.
Saturday was another beautiful day – perfect for the antique market in Lucca’s streets. Like most markets, there was the usual “junk”; however, the antique markets also draw some vendors with quality merchandise. I saw many things that I would love to have – but no way to transport them. Lucky for the checkbook!
We found San Giovanni church, where the Puccini concert is held every evening at 7:00. Our hotel provided us with complimentary tickets, so we decided to do the concert tonight. Then on to the Duomo, San Martino, an incredibly big, beautiful church. Because it is being renovated, inside and out, the scaffolding and curtains discouraged picture takers, so I bought a postcard depicting what the church looks like “normally.”
After San Martino, we walked to Torre Guinigi, the Guinigi family’s tower. Rather than castles, many of the wealthy, powerful people of the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods built towers as residence; these were, essentially rooms upon rooms with the stairs connecting them. The Torre Guinigi is not particularly tall; however, its 270+ steps certainly provide exercise. Can you imagine just going out the front door to discover you’d left something on the top floor?? Most of the tower’s steps were the original stone, but towards the top, steel risers had been installed. Quite a few frescoes still remain, particularly on the lower levels, as does a huge fireplace, perhaps one that was used for cooking. The highlight, however, is the rooftop garden, complete with two tall trees. The view of Lucca and its environs are beautiful from there, especially the wall.
Time for lunch, which again, we enjoyed outside. Then bike riding on the ramparts! The flat top of the wide walls is easily accessible from the several porti, or gates into the city. It’s a local favorite for joggers, walkers, and bikers – and obviously a draw for tourists as well, particularly on such a beautiful day. Nearly 3 miles around, the 16th century walls offer shady tree-lined areas and warm, sunny picnic spots on the 8 or so arrow-shaped jut-outs. After 2 times around, Emma and I regained some strength with a gelatto break, and then did another go-around before returning our bikes.
Perhaps the highlight of the day was the Puccini concert. Lucca is the composer’s birthplace, and his house is a small museum that contains among other items the piano that he used to compose Turandot, one of his famous operas. Sadly, the museum is temporarily closed; evidently some family dispute with either the city or among themselves. Anyway, the city celebrates Puccini with a nightly concert in San Giovanni church, featuring arias from his works plus selections from other composers such as Mozart, Verdi, and Mascagni. A soprano and a tenor were the soloists this evening, and the pianist was the music director. The soprano was incredible; she was French, although most of the performers are Italian singers, all of whom are professional. Her voice was strong and full but with a rich clarity that prevented any heaviness in tone some sopranos have. One of the numbers was “O mio babbino caro” from Gianni Schicchi, one of the songs that Abbey does; also songs from La Traviata and La Boheme.
Next morning after breakfast – off to Pisa, about 20-minute train ride. Again I panicked Emma inadvertently by getting off the train at the 1st Pisa station (which would have been alright) instead of Centrale (main station); I barely made it back on the train. Since it was Sunday, no TI was open for a full map of the town, I was glad to have brought the Rick Steves’ map from his travel book. Set along the Arno River, Pisa features the tiny 12th century church, Santa Maria della Spina, whose Gothic spikey spires are more typical of the grand duomos, such as the one in Milan. On Sunday several of the streets are pedestrian only, making an afternoon passagiata pleasant for everyone. Also of interest is Piazza dei Cavalieri with a frescoed palace and statue of Cosimo I de Medici (with an intense expression), ruler of Pisa in the 16th century.
Pisa was a major power during the Middle Ages; its proximity to the sea presented an advantage that its neighbors, Florence and Siena, did not have – a harbor not far from the city proper. However, as the many city-states shuffled for power and independence, Genoa would become the mightier port city by the early 14th century. During the Renaissance, Pisa was controlled by Florence (hence the Medici statute) – a good thing for art but bad for governing independence. Today its claim to fame is, of course, its leaning tower and its Duomo and Baptistry, all in the Campo dei Miracoli, Field of Miracles.
Approaching the Field of Miracles from Via Santa Maria, I was immediately awestruck with the whiteness of the buildings – all marble. The style is called Pisan Romanesque, according to the guidebooks, a blending of the weightier features a Romanesque design with the white marble and an airiness in the design space. Definitely celestial! I was also amazed to find that the Leaning Tower didn’t lean – ahem, from my perspective. A quick few steps revealed just how much it does indeed lean!
The Tower’s slant is due to the sandy soil. Built at the end of the 12th century, the Tower evidently begin its sideways descent before construction was completed.; today it is nearly 18 feet from vertical! As an iconic symbol of Pisa, the Tower has attracted people throughout the ages from all countries., including Galileo who used it to conduct velocity experiments. 15€ gets one to the top for a lovely view of the city; however, the price as well as the warnings about the slant and rather unsubstantial railings deter some people – myself included. Brunellschi’s Dome in Florence was well worth the 8€ and 476 steps for the stunning panorama WITH secure railings. I wasn’t so sure that I could do Pisa’s Tower!
After lunch in the warm sunshine, Emma and slowly meandered back, stopping to watch crewing on the Arno. With an eye to the pocket book, we bought some cheese, crackers, fruit, and a Chianti (for me) at a small market, and ate in while I finished grading student reports.
Monday morning we were to catch an 8:33 train to Florence, stopping there to pick up a Tuscan pitcher that Kathy wanted. Marina, the B&B manager/owner, prepared breakfast a little early so that we would have something. Her grandparents were from Lucca; however, Marina was born and raised in Scotland and speaks with a decided Scottish brogue. She is friendly and runs a pleasant, comfortable establishment that I would recommend. We said our goodbyes, walked the short distance to the station, and were off to Florence.
Checking our bag at the Florence station, Emma and I explored the Straw Market as we made our way to the pottery shop on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio and Arno. Errand completed, we stopped for lunch at the Duomo caffe where we had eaten last fall, and then back to get our luggage and catch the train to Padua and then to Castelfranco. By 5:30, we were home, catching up on news with Abbey, and thinking about school the next day.
Already, I miss Tuscany.
Venice Carnavale and Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
Venice Carnavale
People with elaborate masks and period costumes wander the streets, stopping to pose for pictures. In San Marco Piazza, puppet shows and theatre mimes amuse children – and adults. Strains of The Four Seasons by Venetian-born Vivaldi emanate from every corner as decorated gondolas form parades on the canals, their riders serenaded with familiar melodies. It’s February and time once again for Venice Carnavale.
Ten days before Lent, this extravaganza kicks off every year, much like its New Orleans relative, Mardi Gras. Thursday, 19th of February, Kathy, Abbey, Emma, and I were a part of this celebration. With some specific sight-seeing places, such as the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Accademia art museum, on my itinerary for Kathy, we made it to only Basilica San Marco, St. Mark’s Church. Too much Carnavale to experience simply by meandering through the streets and piazzi in the San Marco district. The weather was beautiful: sunny and unseasonably warm for February. We needed only a light coat during the day, though nights chilled quickly.
Many towns and cities in Italy celebrate Carnavale, with different themes – Medieval or quirky Halloween-like humor such as the one in Viareggio in Tuscany. Venice’s Carnavale relives the splendor of the 18th century. The costumes are extraordinary, as elaborate as any in a Merchant-Ivory historical film. From feathered hats and powdered wigs to buttoned shoes and spats, the revelers looked as if they had stepped out of French palace before the Revolution of 1789, of course. Rich reds, iridescent blues and purples, deep greens, and the stark black and white – color was everywhere.
Where we would normally gawk at frescoes and Corinthian columns, we now watched for the next costumed passer-byes who would obliging stop for us to take a picture. During the day, the revelers walk throughout the city, or at least one of the six sestieri or districts; at night, those who can afford it, attend one or more of the many events or balls, that cost 350€ to 800€ to attend! On the vaporetto that morning, I had met a woman from England, having flown in just for the day to meet some costumed friends who were attending a mystery ball that night – in masks, of course.
The masks themselves are remarkable. Many are handmade in Italy, and those with hand-painted ceramic faces and jewels are the most costly. We settled for the traditional, affordable ones – after all, colored glass can sparkle just as well! Impossible to describe well, these masks should be viewed to be appreciated. Hint: look at the pictures of Carnavale. [forthcoming]
Our hotel reserved us a spot with a gondola parade in the afternoon. Donning our masks, we met our gondolier on the Grand Canal, near our hotel. Along with about 8 other festively-decorated gondolas, we experienced Venice from the water, and it is indeed a quite different perspective. Many of the canals in the city are narrow, and the gondolier expertly guided us around moored boats and docks, often with an inch gap - just like my navigating the narrow “roads” of Asolo, I thought to myself, remembering the first time I drove them thinking they were one-way alleys until I saw the approaching car. Good thing that mirrors fold in; good thing that gondolas have no mirrors, I thought, as my coat sleeve brushed a rubber-sided dock.
Watermarks from flooding are evident on the buildings, and often steps lead up to the “back door” entrance of a building. We passed under several bridges, waving to the pedestrians above who were either in costume or were tourists taking pictures of those in costume. The narrow canals wind their ways into a larger one, and eventually we were back on the Grand Canal amidst the vaporetti, water taxis, and private boats. Interesting experience being rocked by the waves from a vaporetta when sitting only a few inches above the water in a gondola!
Kathy shopped for gifts to take home and for a charm denoting Italy, eventually finding a gondola one. Then back to the hotel for some rest before dinner. We stayed in Hotel Saturnia & International, about a 5-minute walk from Piazza San Marco – a lovely hotel with distinctive Venetian decor. Normally it would be out of our price range as a 4-star, but it offered a substantial 50% discount for a one-night, non-weekend stay during Carnavale. Glad we grabbed it up! So did the girls as their room had a jacuzzi! I luxuriated in a bath (our apartment has only a shower) before dinner with a glass of Sangiovese Valpolicella. Kath laid on the bed and read (through her eyelids).
That evening we ate dinner in a small restaurant just off Piazza San Marco. Tim, Emma, and I had eaten there on a prior day trip to Venice last fall. Good food, inexpensive, and frequented by locals as well as tourists. One of the best penne all’arrabiatta ever. Penne all’arrabiatta is literally penne with angry sauce; it’s spiced with pepperocini, Italian hot peppers, just a bit different from the chile peppers, but just as hot.
After a delicious breakfast, we leisurely made our way back – down Via XXII Novembre to Piazza Santa Maria Zobenigo, turning down the narrow alley, Campo dell Traghetto to the vaporetti stand and back to Santa Lucia train station for a train to Florence. The vaporetta was packed, many regular locals heading to the Rialto fish market, but also many tourists. A quick glance at the vaporetti headed toward San Marco reassured us that we did Carnavale at the right time. Indeed we later learned that our decision not to return on Sunday from Florence was a good one; the trains that night were so full, people were standing in the aisles, and there weren’t enough trains to accommodate the people.
At 12:47, the Eurostar left, and we arrived at Santa Maria Novella station in Florence at 2:30.
Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
I hadn’t originally planned on taking Kath to Florence, since she was watching the budget after a long trip to Australia to visit Jen. However, when she came, she commented that a friend back home said she should see Florence if possible. No arguments from me, plus Emma remarked that she would love to spend her 12th birthday there, place of her favorite soup! So we worked in the weekend to allow for a half day on Friday and full one on Saturday.
Our budget hotel was on Via Cavour, about a 15-minute walk from the station. Problem was I wasn’t sure when we got to Via Cavour whether the hotel was down toward the city center or up toward Piazza della Liberta. While I walked to a store to ask, Kath and the girls waited at the corner. Before long, two ladies walking by stopped to ask if they needed help. One of the women and Abbey were communicating fairly comfortably in Italian when I walked back – with no directional information. The women, however, knew where the hotel was, but we were stuck on a word. Inglese, I asked? No, non bene, one replied. Okay, I thought; let’s go down the list. Franchese (French)? No, no, no, she emphatically shook her head. Last shot – Tedeschi (German)? Ja, ja, Ich spreche Deutsch, the other woman replied. Ich bin eine Polander (yes, I speak German; I’m from Poland). So while Abbey and the one woman spoke in Italian, the other and I did in German. The directions were perfect; we found the hotel, about 10 minutes from the Duomo.
We unpacked and immediately headed to the Duomo to climb the Dome for some pictures. Kath almost made it to the top, so Abbey took her camera to get her pictures with it. The late afternoon was clear, and the sun was setting, turning the clouds a deep orange against the blue-dark sky. Florence at sunset!
After climbing down, we met Kath and headed to find pizzeria for dinner. Then back for an early night to prepare for the big day tomorrow.
21st of February – Emma’s birthday. An all-day celebration, no doubt.
People with elaborate masks and period costumes wander the streets, stopping to pose for pictures. In San Marco Piazza, puppet shows and theatre mimes amuse children – and adults. Strains of The Four Seasons by Venetian-born Vivaldi emanate from every corner as decorated gondolas form parades on the canals, their riders serenaded with familiar melodies. It’s February and time once again for Venice Carnavale.
Ten days before Lent, this extravaganza kicks off every year, much like its New Orleans relative, Mardi Gras. Thursday, 19th of February, Kathy, Abbey, Emma, and I were a part of this celebration. With some specific sight-seeing places, such as the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Accademia art museum, on my itinerary for Kathy, we made it to only Basilica San Marco, St. Mark’s Church. Too much Carnavale to experience simply by meandering through the streets and piazzi in the San Marco district. The weather was beautiful: sunny and unseasonably warm for February. We needed only a light coat during the day, though nights chilled quickly.
Many towns and cities in Italy celebrate Carnavale, with different themes – Medieval or quirky Halloween-like humor such as the one in Viareggio in Tuscany. Venice’s Carnavale relives the splendor of the 18th century. The costumes are extraordinary, as elaborate as any in a Merchant-Ivory historical film. From feathered hats and powdered wigs to buttoned shoes and spats, the revelers looked as if they had stepped out of French palace before the Revolution of 1789, of course. Rich reds, iridescent blues and purples, deep greens, and the stark black and white – color was everywhere.
Where we would normally gawk at frescoes and Corinthian columns, we now watched for the next costumed passer-byes who would obliging stop for us to take a picture. During the day, the revelers walk throughout the city, or at least one of the six sestieri or districts; at night, those who can afford it, attend one or more of the many events or balls, that cost 350€ to 800€ to attend! On the vaporetto that morning, I had met a woman from England, having flown in just for the day to meet some costumed friends who were attending a mystery ball that night – in masks, of course.
The masks themselves are remarkable. Many are handmade in Italy, and those with hand-painted ceramic faces and jewels are the most costly. We settled for the traditional, affordable ones – after all, colored glass can sparkle just as well! Impossible to describe well, these masks should be viewed to be appreciated. Hint: look at the pictures of Carnavale. [forthcoming]
Our hotel reserved us a spot with a gondola parade in the afternoon. Donning our masks, we met our gondolier on the Grand Canal, near our hotel. Along with about 8 other festively-decorated gondolas, we experienced Venice from the water, and it is indeed a quite different perspective. Many of the canals in the city are narrow, and the gondolier expertly guided us around moored boats and docks, often with an inch gap - just like my navigating the narrow “roads” of Asolo, I thought to myself, remembering the first time I drove them thinking they were one-way alleys until I saw the approaching car. Good thing that mirrors fold in; good thing that gondolas have no mirrors, I thought, as my coat sleeve brushed a rubber-sided dock.
Watermarks from flooding are evident on the buildings, and often steps lead up to the “back door” entrance of a building. We passed under several bridges, waving to the pedestrians above who were either in costume or were tourists taking pictures of those in costume. The narrow canals wind their ways into a larger one, and eventually we were back on the Grand Canal amidst the vaporetti, water taxis, and private boats. Interesting experience being rocked by the waves from a vaporetta when sitting only a few inches above the water in a gondola!
Kathy shopped for gifts to take home and for a charm denoting Italy, eventually finding a gondola one. Then back to the hotel for some rest before dinner. We stayed in Hotel Saturnia & International, about a 5-minute walk from Piazza San Marco – a lovely hotel with distinctive Venetian decor. Normally it would be out of our price range as a 4-star, but it offered a substantial 50% discount for a one-night, non-weekend stay during Carnavale. Glad we grabbed it up! So did the girls as their room had a jacuzzi! I luxuriated in a bath (our apartment has only a shower) before dinner with a glass of Sangiovese Valpolicella. Kath laid on the bed and read (through her eyelids).
That evening we ate dinner in a small restaurant just off Piazza San Marco. Tim, Emma, and I had eaten there on a prior day trip to Venice last fall. Good food, inexpensive, and frequented by locals as well as tourists. One of the best penne all’arrabiatta ever. Penne all’arrabiatta is literally penne with angry sauce; it’s spiced with pepperocini, Italian hot peppers, just a bit different from the chile peppers, but just as hot.
After a delicious breakfast, we leisurely made our way back – down Via XXII Novembre to Piazza Santa Maria Zobenigo, turning down the narrow alley, Campo dell Traghetto to the vaporetti stand and back to Santa Lucia train station for a train to Florence. The vaporetta was packed, many regular locals heading to the Rialto fish market, but also many tourists. A quick glance at the vaporetti headed toward San Marco reassured us that we did Carnavale at the right time. Indeed we later learned that our decision not to return on Sunday from Florence was a good one; the trains that night were so full, people were standing in the aisles, and there weren’t enough trains to accommodate the people.
At 12:47, the Eurostar left, and we arrived at Santa Maria Novella station in Florence at 2:30.
Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
I hadn’t originally planned on taking Kath to Florence, since she was watching the budget after a long trip to Australia to visit Jen. However, when she came, she commented that a friend back home said she should see Florence if possible. No arguments from me, plus Emma remarked that she would love to spend her 12th birthday there, place of her favorite soup! So we worked in the weekend to allow for a half day on Friday and full one on Saturday.
Our budget hotel was on Via Cavour, about a 15-minute walk from the station. Problem was I wasn’t sure when we got to Via Cavour whether the hotel was down toward the city center or up toward Piazza della Liberta. While I walked to a store to ask, Kath and the girls waited at the corner. Before long, two ladies walking by stopped to ask if they needed help. One of the women and Abbey were communicating fairly comfortably in Italian when I walked back – with no directional information. The women, however, knew where the hotel was, but we were stuck on a word. Inglese, I asked? No, non bene, one replied. Okay, I thought; let’s go down the list. Franchese (French)? No, no, no, she emphatically shook her head. Last shot – Tedeschi (German)? Ja, ja, Ich spreche Deutsch, the other woman replied. Ich bin eine Polander (yes, I speak German; I’m from Poland). So while Abbey and the one woman spoke in Italian, the other and I did in German. The directions were perfect; we found the hotel, about 10 minutes from the Duomo.
We unpacked and immediately headed to the Duomo to climb the Dome for some pictures. Kath almost made it to the top, so Abbey took her camera to get her pictures with it. The late afternoon was clear, and the sun was setting, turning the clouds a deep orange against the blue-dark sky. Florence at sunset!
After climbing down, we met Kath and headed to find pizzeria for dinner. Then back for an early night to prepare for the big day tomorrow.
21st of February – Emma’s birthday. An all-day celebration, no doubt.
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