Tuesday, September 30, 2008

WHEEW!

SO.... it's obvious you are having a GREAT time exploring and getting acclimated. I do not have as an extensive or interesting life to describe.... so reading your's is excellent. I am, however, going to Maine this weekend and then spending a few days in Boston. What is the seasonal climate in Italy? Any similiarities to PA? I'm looking forward to seeing the fall leaves and ... I might take a kayak trip on the ocean. I'll be in Boston from Monday thru Wednesday for a conference. Hey.... do they have "philanthropy" in Italy?

Anyway.... miss you all. Abbey.... wazzup?
xxxxxxoooooo AL

Thursday, September 25, 2008

The Easy Life - Italy

Hi all! I realized that I haven't really been out to the blog except to read, and I thought I would start adding a few comments. As it turns out, my arms are now sufficiently recovered from hauling the luggage on way to Italy to allow me to again write! I was really shocked to find no bricks or large weights in any of the girls' bags upon arrival!
We have been enjoying life here! The other
faculty
members are wonderful, warm, and helpful. While it's only been about four weeks since we all met for the first time, it feels like we are all old friends. Two of the faculty, Fran LLoyd, and Terry Roberson are both repeat CIMBA professors.(3 to 6) years of experience here in Italy. Without the guidance and tips about where to shop, how to do things, and a million other little intercultural tidbits, our transition from Wilmington to Paderno del Grappa wouldn't have been as easy and would have been much less fun. The full-time staff in the CIMBA office have been fantastic in getting us settled in our appartments and offices, and in getting involved with the students. Participating in programs and events with the students is a large part of the process and has been very rewarding. Students have come from all over the USA. Great diverstiy in backgrounds! As it turns out, the two students from Delaware are both in my Principles of Finance class which has overall enrollment of about 33. My Managerial Econ. class has 17 students enrolled. Realy nice class sizes. The classrooms have enough technology to accommodate about any style of teaching ( overheads, laptop computer frojection, whiteboards, and flip charts).
The students seem to be comparable to our better students at UD. One of the other common traits of the students is a desire to travel. With two travel weeks and two long weekends ( about 25 days) built into the program, Travel is encouraged and expected. For instance, last Friday,Sept. 19, there was a field trip to Trieste, Italy. This is almost into Slovenia and sits on the Adriatic - Trieste is a port city. All of the students went on the field trip along with three faculty (me included) and one administrator. We dropped all but 10 out of 90 students off at the train/bus station in Trieste. The major destination was Ljubljana, Slovenia for most. We heard nothing but good reports from the students the following Monday. They said they found "Great Mexican Food" in Ljubljana! Go figure? They all had a great learning experience on traveling and how to get back to Paderno del Grappa on their own and in one piece. They were tired but happy. After this week we have another full week of classes, and then our first travel week. Our family is heading for Rapallo (West Coast), from which we will visit Cinque Terre (covers about 5 coastal towns). Lots to see and do. I m enjoying the cheeses, fish, great pasta, Italian pizza, wine ... everything so far! We have use of a nice little car. It is a Fiat Punto! 4 cylinder diesel, 5 speed manual stick shift - 4 door with a hatch-back. It goes like hell and has a strong second gear! It is a treat to drive around the narrow winding roads! The Italians go like hell and will pass you at the drop of a hat! Well, I need to go! Charlene and I are going to review some train ticket information for our trip to Rapallo.
Best to all, Tim

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Missing you guys back here in York, PA!

I am sitting here after work reading your blog and think it is so cool that you are off doing such amazing things and experiencing life the Italian way. Everything you are doing sounds wonderful! The description of the food alone is enough to convince me that I should hop on the next plane over! Unfortunately, duty calls over here and the people at York Hospital do not mess around. My 80 hour work week does not provide me with enough time to catch up on sleep or do normal people things let alone travel! You will just have to continue experiencing it for me and allow me to live vicariously through this blog! Jon, Cooper, and I miss you all a ton! We are doing well, Jon is busy working at his new job, and Cooper is, well, being a puppy as usual. We are getting the house fixed up slowly but surely and hope that you all can come visit if you are back for the holidays! Lots of Love, Mandy

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

I'm so jealous!!!

Hi Guys -- I finally got on the "blog". You should be proud of me, first site I've ever joined! Now I have my "google site" and everything. I spent some time catching up on all of your news -- what a great month you have had! It all sounds so peaceful. Tim, I know you miss those of us at work, making our way through "drop/add". It is over now, so we have a little break before the senior checkouts are due. Not much news from here. Tomorrow night, Bob Schwitzer, Jay C., Jim Buckowitz, Puglisi and Bill Poole (guy retired from the FED) are going to do a panel discussion on the state of the economy. Most people are hoping they are going to explain things in a way that the rest of us can understand it! Besides the economy going down the toilet, the only news is about the election. It should be an interesting fall. Charlene, I am really enjoying your entries -- where are Tim's?!?! How are the students? What is this about Univ of Iowa? What happened to Cassie and Univ of Kansas?? Look forward to hearing from you guys. Drink lots of wine for me and Andy!! Love, Sandy

The Markets in Italy

Ok, Lise -- you wanted another blog post!! Be careful what you wish for!

If it’s Sunday or Thursday or Tuesday or what day you will, there must be a market somewhere in Italy. For Crespano, a little village about a mile and half from Paderno, Sunday is the day. We’ve been there three Sundays in a row now, each time with increasing success in finding and buying food, clothes, and household needs. We feel a little less like foreigners, though the vendors recognize from our accents that they need to speak “proper” rather than dialectal Italian. And except for our favorite cheese vendor, who greets us with a “Ciao, Dela-ware,” the others now don’t seem to notice much difference between us and the locals. Well, at least they don’t let on that they do.


This past Sunday, I actually found a pair of jeans at the market that weren’t designed for a 5'3" Italian 15-year old, and they cost only 12€ ($17)! Abbey found a lovely wool winter coat for 30€ (about $42), and Tim bought some nice dress shirts at Kohl’s prices. Of course we stocked up on cheese and produce: mele (apples); lattuga (lettuce); pomodori (tomatoes); olive (olives!); fromaggio parmegiano e gorgonzola (no translation needed, right?). The market was bustling; perhaps because the weather was good this week – no rain.

On Saturday, we went to Bassano del Grappa, a lovely historic city about 30 minutes from Paderno. It’s on the Brenta River and features an historic wooden bridge, originally designed by Palladio, that links the two sections of the city. Saturday is Market Day in Bassano, and the vendors were enjoying the people turning out on a lovely, sunny day to find some bargains and food for the week. After some experimentation with driving in the city, finding a parking place, and learning how to work the meter, we explored the market that runs down through Via J da Ponte, one of the main streets connecting with three central squares or piazzas: Piazza Garibaldi, Piazza Liberta, and Piazza Montevechio. This day Bassano bustled with families pushing strollers and monitoring toddlers running throughout the throngs; young couples waving and shouting “Ciao” to friends; retired people greeting each other with a handshake or a kiss on each cheek; and, taking advantage of the varied goods available this day, were foreigners (Italians and non-Italians alike).

Foreigners – a different concept in Italy. Italians think of themselves first as residents of their hometown or province. Ask Italians where they come from, they’ll say “Treviso” or “Venice” or “Bassano,” not Italy. They might, if feeling particularly worldly, reply “Veneto,” “Lombardy,” or “Tuscany,” indicating the region. So, in Bassano, located in the Vincenza province of the Veneto region, we Americans were not much different than a Crespano native from the Treviso province of the Veneto. And we were the same as a Fiesole native from Tuscany – save for our ineptness in Italian!

Meandering through the markets and observing the people make for an intriguing cultural experience. The locals who come regularly have established relationships with the vendors (who travel from one market town to another throughout the week). Vendors willingly engage in lengthy conversation with a customer while prospective buyers patiently wait for their attention, often joining in the conversation before the vendors address their questions or needs. The goods themselves are an enigma: “Made in Italy” can mean “Made in Italy” by Italian workers (i.e., snap it up; it’s good) to “Made in Italy” by 3rd world workers in Italy (buy with extreme caution – Wal-Mart goods). We are learning to recognize the difference with help from our Italian friends at CIMBA: look at seams’ stitching; feel the fabric; and pay attention to craftsmanship. “Real” Italian-made products usually reveal an artisan at work. The variety of goods is amazing: clothes of all sorts, shoes, fruits, vegetables, meats, cheeses, linens, jewelry, kitchen products, plants and herbs, belts, tools. For some reason, chain saws are popular market fare – hopefully for cutting firewood!!

This Saturday, we had Emma’s friend and our neighbor, Jo-Jo, with us as her parents and older sister were involved in a different outing. The girls were surprised by a carpet vendor waving to them and yelling “Hello.” Turns out he goes to Crespano and saw both of them the last couple of Sundays there. Tim and Emma went over, and they conversed in broken Italian/English and the ever helpful hand signals. He said he was Moroccan, so we explained our connection to Hicham’s family in Tangier. He was from further south, a town I didn’t recognize by name.

By noon, Emma and Jo-Jo were “S-T-A-R-V-I-N-G,” so we fortunately discovered a welcoming café on Piazza Montevecchio, not far from the famous bridge. Finding suitable bistro/cafes here in Italy is much more a challenge for us than it was in France as many are “bars” which serve coffee, tea, wine, etc., but not much in the way of food that appeals to American 11-year olds. This place was nice with friendly, attentive service (including waitress who spoke some English). Abbey, Tim, and I had some fantastico Panini sandwiches. Emma and Jo-Jo chose some yummy bruschetta with mozzarella cheese, tomatoes, artichokes, and black olives.

After a pleasant lunch, we walked to the bridge, known as either Ponte Vecchio (like the famous one in Florence) or Ponte degli Alpina. The signs just say “a Ponte” (to the bridge)! Whatever name, the bridge is charming – a covered wooden structure spanning the Brenta River. I took some lovely shots of it and the rows of homes and businesses on the banks, all with flower boxes or landscaped greens. A just-married couple with their attendants were there taking full advantage of the bridge’s ambiance for some pictures. A highly decorated VW Bug (old one) was evidently part of the wedding party!

Walking back through the piazzas, we saw nearly deserted streets. The market was gone: vendors had packed up and left, and the streets had been cleaned. Now, however, we could see the building that had been hidden behind the rows of vendors: the old municipal building with classical pillars, faded frescoes, a statue commemorating Garibaldi who led Italian states to victory and unity in the late 1800's, a monument to the local fallen during WWI (what is known here as la Grande Guerra, the Great War).

Speaking of the Great War. Last Friday, the school sponsored a trip to Trieste, a 3-hour bus ride one way. Tim went, but Abbey stayed to catch up on school work, and Emma and I had some fun together at home. Tim will have to write a post about the experience, but I uploaded the pictures that he took. One stop along the way was to a World War I monument. Trieste, which borders Slovenia, has a number of sights, but there was little time before the bus headed back home.

This week we also had two dinners out. One was at a fellow faculty member’s house. Dominic, a Brit who now lives in Italy with his Italian wife, Lara, and their two children, invited our neighbors and us over to their house for some pizza take-away. It was a good time for kids and parents alike. Dominic and Lara built the house a few years ago in a small village about 20 minutes from Paderno. Very sleek and modern in design and functions (has air conditioning which is almost unheard of in Italy), it is a sharp contrast to the warm, hearth-like feel of a Tuscan farmhouse.

Our second dinner was at an Agriturismo. Popular throughout much of Europe, these farms have small restaurants that serve up the farmers’ produce, meats, cheeses, and, in some cases, wines. About 11 of us went – incredible drive up one of the mountains on a paved road more narrow that the dirt roads at the farm and with rather steep drops that had everyone looking down (save for Tim, who was driving at that point)! Lovely view of the valley and the Grappa range toward the north. We made a mental note to go back during the day for pictures. Mushrooms were featured – it’s the season for them. Both Emma and Jo-Jo had wild mushroom soup which they loved. Everything was tasty. Good dinner, good wine, good company. Couldn’t have asked for more.

Tuesday, September 16, 2008

Dela - WHERE?

Hey there! I'm so glad your Italian friends validated the difficulty in locating DELAWARE. By the way..... no one knows where Royersford, PA is either..... :)

Anyway.... the USA misses your political views and commentary on the decline of our stock market. I miss your indignation about our international state of affairs. Hey! Lehman Brothers hit bottom! What do you think about that? Meryll Lynch is in the hopper..... thoughts? Tim.... this is definately a good case study for your Italian students. OK.... tell me more about the weather and view in Italy..... it's a far cry from the local home owners association challenges..... or the work that I should be doing right now..... tell me about the hills and thunder storms and the scent in the air. Your poetry is better than ..... well, I'll stop there. (don't read too much into that.... you're not THAT good!)

Miss you all much.
Emma.... thanks for the e-mail
Abbey.... wazzup with you?

Monday, September 15, 2008

Go Phillies, Tim! How bout them Phitins!?

Boy do I miss you guys, and Tim, this Monday night is the annual baseball night out where you pose as one of my loyal lighting customers and come with us all to see the Phils have-at-it!
Sorry you're missing it, I'll have an extra 5 or 6 Yeungling Draughts on you be-haugh!

Paderno del Grappa

Paderno del Grappa -- see Links for pictures of the town, our apartment, and incredible Mount Grappa!

While I filled you in a bit about our arrival several postings below, I now finally have some time to write more about our Italian home for the next several months. It’s difficult to know where to begin; perhaps describing the surroundings is the best way.

Paderno is a small town or village of about 2000 people with the CIMBA campus located on the Instituo Filipin, an Italian boarding school. Paderno has a pharmacy; a “banging” pizzeria; a scrumptious bakery; two tabacchi stores (little grocery stores); a gift-arts store; a municipal building (bureaucracy rules here); a bell tower (w/ hourly chimes of the bells); a church (every town has one – or two); a post office; a bank (with a multi-lingual ATM); a spa (yes, Abbey & I may visit that for a massage); quite a few houses and apartments, all of which feature window boxes or gardens of flowers and herbs; and several small farms on the immediate outskirts. The center of town is the roundabout that directs one to nearby Asolo, Crespano, Fonte, and Castelcucco.

Mount Grappa dominates the skyline, visible from every angle in the area. Part of the impressive Dolomite range, it thrusts upward with jagged rocks here and smooth grassy rolls there. We have an incredible view from our front balcony and living room. The storms – and there have been several since we’ve been here – are amazing to watch: the clouds gather and swirl, find a direction, and then race toward the unsuspecting target. The rain follows quickly. It’s thrilling to watch the storms move across the mountain tops or through the crevices facing us. Sometimes the rain seems to be coming directly toward us and suddenly it will veer south to the Veneto plain and Verona.

Veneto weather changes quickly: an overcast morning gives way to lovely sun by 10 to intense sun by 3 to a sudden downpour at 6 to a cool clear evening by 9. Perhaps this is typical for fall; perhaps it’s because of the mountains. Either way, I have no doubt but that it keeps the weather forecasters guessing. When the thunderstorms come, the thunder is incessant, seemingly uncoordinated with the lightening be it cloud to cloud or brilliant ground strikes. The nights have been cooler the last few days, probably about 50-60∘ F.

Our apartment is quite nice. If you look at the pictures, our apartment is on end of the second floor of the pinkish terra cotta colored building. Our wonderful neighbors from Oregon are in the next-door apartment. We share a landing and a front balcony. The living/dining/kitchen combo is very spacious. Not much countertop room in the kitchen which is sometimes inconvenient, and we do have to rethink cooking strategies as we do not have a full-sized oven, only a toaster oven. The refrigerator is a good size, just a little smaller than we typically have, and it has a freezer. Gas cooktop is great, though I keep turning on the wrong burner!!!! Abbey and I have rearranged furniture to create cozy nooks, work spaces, and eating areas in this large room. It’s beginning to feel like a home.

The two bedrooms are roomy with wardrobes and a dresser. Our bedroom has a desk as well. The main bathroom (with a shower) is between the two bedrooms; the girls have a good-sized “powder room” off their bedroom. A door separates the living area from the sleeping and bath area which is nice for privacy and quiet. I love the windows, even though they’re casement and I prefer double-hung. They are big and open so easily. Each has functional shutters we can shut partially or completely to block hot sun or shelter from rain with the windows still open.

A small balcony off the dining/kitchen section is where we hang the laundry. Few people have dryers in Italy because of the high energy costs. No dishwashers either (except for people). When laundry isn’t drying, the balcony is a wonderful place to sit. It overlooks our downstairs neighbor’s back yard and her Golden Retriever, Giacomo – who loves to play ball and be petted. Across the driveway is a large vegetable garden, where a man (who has now learned to smile and wave to our greetings) spends many mornings and evenings tending to the plants. He must have visited the Sunday market in Crespano and purchased some seedlings for we saw new plants there on Tuesday.

A mother, grandmother, and two young children (about 5) live in the larger downstairs apartment that is in the golden yellow building. The grandmother is very pleasant, and Emma and her friend Jo-Jo have played a bit with the kids. One of the girls is Italian; the other is American. We’re not sure what the connection is exactly. Abbey had fun practicing her Italian on the one girl.

On Saturday, Tim and I walked to the post office. I was so proud that I could ask for “due francobolli per stati uniti, per favore” (two stamps for the United States please). Hey, it’s not much, but I’m learning! On our way back, we met Giorgio, who is the complex’s handyman and gardener. I was pleasantly surprised that he initiated the conversation after we smiled and said Buongiorno (I haven’t found the Italians in general to be quite as friendly as the French). “My name is Giorgio,” he said with a strong accent. “Mi chiamo, Charlene. Piacere,” I replied. (My name is Charlene; pleased to meet you). He was working in the garden. Although he knows only a few words of English and we know only a few words of Italian at this point, we managed to communicate quite well: Giorgio grew up in a small town near Paderno and has (or had, I don’t enough verb tenses) 6 brothers and sisters; he recommends our taking the train to Castelfranco for a day in Venice, which is evidently one of his favorite places in the Veneto; he likes the beach (or maybe suggested it to us, I’m not sure which); asked if the girls he had seen were our daughters; and thought it would rain today (it did). What words were unable to accomplish, hand motions usually did and mimes did. If nothing else, we made a friend.

Italian hours of business live up to their reputation of being unpredictable with regard to hours. Most close on Wednesday afternoons; however, some close on Monday. Still there are others who choose Tuesday morning. To make it more a guessing game for the unsuspecting public, some remain open when the sign says “Chiuso” (closed) and some close when the sign reads “Aperto” (open). Normale.

We went to the Sunday market in Crespano again yesterday – a 20-minute walk away. Although the weather wasn’t cooperative with rain, we had a good time buying vegetables, fruit, and cheese. Only one mistake with the apples as the vendor thought we said tre mele (3 apples) and we said tre kilo di mele (3 kilos of apples, which disappear in a week in this house!). Our cheese vendor was an absolute hoot! He could tell from our pitiful butchering of the Italian language and of course our translation books, that we were not Italians. He asked where we were from. We told him “Delaware, America.” Then he wanted to know where Delaware was (just like many Americans not from Delaware ask!!!), and we drew a little map showing the state between New York/Philadelphia and Washington DC. Well, he was tickled; you would have thought we were from Mars. He hollers to his wife – “Hey, they are from Dela-ware” – emphasizing the syllable break and in Italian, of course. She came out, said “goodby” and smiled. No, she wasn’t being rude. The Italian “ciao” is both hello and goodby, so Italians who don’t know much English will often say “goodby” for “hello” and vice versa. Then our vendor tells some of the regulars standing in line that we are from “Dela-ware.” I suspect we were the first Delawareans he had ever met. Of course, he was the first Crespano cheese vendor we had met!! He had us tasted each cheese to make sure we liked it. So we did well in getting some excellent local goat (capra) and sheep (pecorino) cheese (fromaggio), and two types of asiago. He wanted to know if we were taking it home to “Dela-ware,” a question we didn’t at first understand until Abbey picked up on “import” and one of the regulars who knew some English helped. I explained that we abiamo in Paderno per otto mesi (we are living in Paderno for 8 months). Bienvenuto (welcome), he said. As we packed our cheeses into our backpacks, he began to help others, but turned as we left the stand: “Arriverderci, ciao Dela-ware,” he yelled. I think we will go back many times!

Monday, September 8, 2008

But is it Better Than The York Fair?

Your trip sounds really fantastic.

The whole time I'm reading it I keep from being jealous by thinking"How does Char type all those fancy French names without looking at her fingers while she's typing?" I can't say them, type them, or see them. What a loser!

I can only add that it's Fair time here in York. This event tops Harley week and Antique Car Week by a mile with the locals. Lots of Country music, greased racing pigs, ag displays, and 4-H projects.

I am imagining the view of the Dolomites from your bedroom windows, I see the Pigeon Hills from mine. The tent caterpillars are bad this year so am enjoying them while they are still green with trees. Next year they may be brown with dead trees. Which of course just adds to the mystery of life.

Your pictures are very good and are missing only one thing. Me.

(dog)Chow

Italy: Here We Come! Here We ARE!

[See ITALY: HERE WE COME! HERE WE ARE! link for pictures.]

Tues., 2 September - Wed., 3 September
Mon. Dalac kindly called us a taxi for our 1:17 train to Angers. Saying a fond goodby to the town and to the Dalac family who made us feel so at home, I at least wanted to stay just a bit longer. We felt we made such good friends there.

Wiser about how to maneuver the luggage, we quite easily made the connections from Saumur to Angers, from Angers to Paris (on the TGV), and with the help of TWO taxis, from Montparnasse station to Bercy for the overnight Trenitalia to Venice.

The small Bercy station was busy, but we waited only about an hour until we could board the 6:55 (18:55) train. Of course our car was the last, and of course I hit the only “pot hole” in the concourse spilling the luggage on the push cart! C’est la vie, n’est-ce pas?

Our couchette provided lots of luggage space and cute bunks for slipping. The attendant for our car was very pleasant; it was an Italian staff. He didn’t seem to know much French but did speak limited English. We left on time, and the attendant collected both tickets and passports. Tim and I shared some wine as the girls lounged on the top bunks, all of us enjoying the scenery for the few hours before dark.

I’m not quite sure of the route, but it was different from the one I took 20 years ago when we could see the Alps at 5:30 in the morning. This time we must have gone through Dijon, for we had a middle of the night (actually about 3:00 am) stop in Brig, Switzerland, from which one could normally see the Matterhorn, at least in daylight!

We cleaned up a bit and began looking at some familiar names along the Milan-Venice line: Verona, Padua, Vicenza. We stopped briefly at each one, which made me wonder if we could also stop at Mestre, where Renato, our CIMBA taxi driver would pick us up, rather than follow our tickets which had us go into Venice Santa Lucia station and take another train back to Mestre (5 minutes). We asked when the attendant gave us back our tickets and passports; he said yes. Mestre at 9:29!

So with very little aggravation, we unloaded the bags and waited by the Mestre station entrance/exit for Renato who was to pick us up between 10 and 10:30. Just outside was . . . . . . a McDonald’s! The menu a bit different, but Emma had some nuggets and curly fries and Tim had a Big Mac. He gave me a bit – much better than most of the typical McDonald’s fare. And the curly fries were great – not the least bit greasy. How do they do that?

While waiting, an incredible thunderstorm blew in. We were just outside the station under a 20-foot overhang, but we had to move back in a little because the wind took the rain sideways. Some incredible cracks and lightening bolts. It passed after about 15 minutes, and Renato shortly appeared. We loaded everything into the car (like a small SUV) and headed off to Paderno where Renato said the sun was shining. Sure enough, a few minutes outside of Mestre — sun!

Paderno del Grappa is about an hour car ride from Mestre/Venice. As we drove, we noticed a lot of construction – felt like Delaware!!! However, most of it involved building. Many roundabouts and few traffic lights, so we moved along quickly. Renato is a “normal” driver; that is, he does not fit the stereotypical Italian driver, at least with the taxi filled with Americans and their luggage!!

We got to campus around 11:00. Renato showed Tim the office while we stretched our legs. Then Renato came back and said he’d take us to the apartment. We figured Tim was coming too, but no. Okay, so perhaps he was doing some paperwork. The Orchidea (Ork-a-day-a) Apartments are about an 8-minute walk to the campus. Set in a lovely garden with unbelievable view of the Dolomites (pictures are coming, don’t worry!), we waited by the gate. Soon Tim comes, driving a Fiat Punto, our car! Marta (Italian) and Tommy (American) , both of whom are on the CIMBA staff, were with him; we commended them on their bravery for riding with him.

Marta takes us to our 2nd floor apartment – lovely. Though only 2 bedrooms (good size) much to Abbey’s dismay, it has a spacious living area with dining set that includes a small kitchen. The main bath separates the two bedrooms and the girls have a “powder room” off their room. Huge casement windows with functional shutters, a balcony off the living area, and another one that we and the other American family share off our second floor landing. Italian tile, naturally, and hardwood floors.

We unpack and begin to move things around a bit to make it fit our living style and to make it our home for the next 8 months. Lists begin of what we need. Constant “ahhh’s” each time we pass the windows as we view the Dolomites.

Feeling daring but feeling more hungry than anything, we set off to find a grocery store. Adam, another staff member and American, notes that most stores are closed on Wed. afternoon, although he thought that Crespano, a near by town had one open. So we braved driving (not as bad as I thought), only to find all closed. Off to Fonte, a little farther off, to a supermarket called Famila, where we stocked up with basics, some fresh fruit and veggies, and wine! It is so cheap here – I mean decent wine. $5.00 a bottle for a great Valpolicella!

Back at the apartment, we meet our neighbors: Scott and Judy with their 2 daughters Madeleine (12 going on 18) and Johanna, better known as Jo-Jo, who’s 10. Well, Jo-Jo and Emma promptly hit if off. They’re inseparable. About 7 every morning, Jo-Jo hops over the balcony railing and comes over. Emma is so funny; she informed us that Jo-Jo not only loves to dance and play cards like she does, but she also is “addicted” to chapstick. Never would have dreamed another kid would. Anyway, they are from Eugene, Oregon; Judy is an ESL teacher, and Scott is here for the journalism courses. We are so happy to have them as neighbors – and have already enjoyed a Prosecco with them.

Another storm rolled in, so we canceled plans to walk to the Pizzeria Ristorante just up the road and instead had spaghetti in olive oil, garlic, and fresh basil. Yummm! Tim was tired and went to bed early; so did Abbey. Emma and I stayed up to midnight and watched Under the Tuscan Sun on the computer!

A Day Trip to Angers – Monday, 1 September 2008

[See A DAY TRIP TO ANGERS link for pictures]

Monsieur and Madame Dalac, our Saumur hotel owners, recommended Angers for a day trip, and as it had been one of my choices upon researching possible places in the Anjou area, we decided to go. A 20-minute walk to the train station, a 20-minute train ride, et voilà – Angers. Once we directionally oriented ourselves at the station, we found that the historic downtown area of this bustling university city was a mere 10 minutes away.

Near the Château was a little tourist “train,” much like the one we took in Avignon two years ago on our trip to France; it gives a wonderful ride around the historic centre so one can learn where some of the major sites are: St. Maurice Cathédrâle, the Château, the timber-framed houses, fountains, gardens, and statues. Two British couples (from just outside Bath) and a French grandmother and her adorable 4- year old granddaughter were on the train with us, and we all had a great fun. The Brits, retired couples, possessed the typical dry humor and friendliness (particularly the men, with whom Tim related quite well), and the little French girl leaned out to all passerbys with a wave and a “Bon jour” or “cuckoo” – all with a smile. Abbey had already met our multilingual driver in the postcard store; he too had a devilish sense of humor, teasing Emma and little French girl. The guide materials were in multiple languages, including English, making it easier for us to learn basic information as we went along.

After the train excursion, we explored the 12th century Château for several hours. Like most castles, it was built over many years and upon the foundation of older fortresses, and this one was “completed” during the 15th century eign of René I, the last duke of Anjou (Loire region of Saumur, Angers, Chinon, and a few other places). The Château has had a checkered history: from creative, expensive renovations by René I to a prison established by Louis XIV to an official historic monument in the late 19th century to German munitions base during WWII, at which time it incurred damages from Allied attacks.

Lovely gardens (which once had an aviary and bestiary), wonderful rampart walk with turrets or towers that featured magnificent views of the city and surrounding countryside, and historic rooms from centuries back – all these provided us with a sense of the ups and downs of castle living: huge fireplaces but drafty windows; tapestried walls but cold floors; fantastic views but watch out for enemy arrows! Tapestries were popular for functional reasons: they provided warmth in cold weather. However, they also signified wealth and status. Many of the tapestries were woven in Paris and Flanders; weavers followed the artists’ full size designs, and most of these tapestries were bigger than a 12x12 rug.

One of the most interesting areas of the Château was a recently built room that features nearly a hundred tapestries depicting 14th century artists’ depictions of the last day (literally), aptly called The Apocalypse Tapestries. Influenced by the Apostle John’s visions as recounted in the book of Revelations, these interpretations present dire scenes of sinners’ fates, the rewards for the elect or saved, the earth’s kings laying down their crowns to The King (Christ), slaying the dragon, the fall of Babylon, and so forth, all culminating in the New Jersusalem. Viewing these scenes, I couldn’t help but think of Dante’s Inferno and the progression of eternal punishments “Dante” and his guide Virgil witnessed as they descended into hell’s abyss. One quickly senses how much such images enabled the Church and powerful to control the masses. I wouldn’t have wanted to have messed with that dragon!!!

After the Château, we went to St. Maurice, the Gothic church built in the 12th century. More tapestries, incredible wooden carvings that unfortunately were too dark for effective pictures with our cameras. The 100 or so stone steps from the front of the church lead down to a fountain and square, enjoyed by students and families alike. The timbered framed houses, much like those in Saumur, reminded me of the architecture in Strasbourg in the Alsace-Lorraine, which is heavily influenced by German style.

Well, so much for the history, which is remarkable for the four of us but common for the people here. Angers is a fairly large city, yet it exudes charm and warmth. Mothers or fathers with children in tow slip in and out of various stores purchasing foods for evening dinner. Workers hurry to either reopen the shop closed for a lengthy lunch or to home after a full day. The many university students contribute to the atmosphere as they gather on the steps of the church to play guitars or sit around the fountain or Château’s greens to talk and do school work. Accustomed to tourists from all over, Angers welcomes all. Observing the bustlers and amblers, we enjoy a late afternoon tea (and a mousse chocolat for Abbey and Emma). All too soon, we catch the train back to Saumur.

Biking to Montsoreau – Sunday, 31 August 2008

[See BIKING TO MONTSOREAU link for pictures]

A small town just east of Saumur, Montsoreau features a little Sunday market and an historic château made famous in Alexander Dumas’ novel, The Lady of Montsoreau. Actually the events that inspired the novel were probably what truly made the castle famous!

Apparently Jeanne Chabot, the lovely lady (and heiress of the castle) had a lover, Bussy d’Amboise, an Anjou count – something that her husband, Jean de Chambes did not quite like (go figure), especially after Jeanne and Bussy had a rendez-vous or two in her bedroom. Not quite the modern man, her husband forced her to write to d’Amboise, inviting him to Montsoreau, where the two men dueled. Unfortunately for the lover, he lost, both the lady and his life. Evidently Jeanne Chabot recovered from the situation as she and her husband remained married and had 6 children. She is referred to as the “tragic lady”; evidently public opinion was and still is on her side. I’ll have to read Dumas’ novel to get his side of it (though he changed her first name).

Today the Château houses an impressive history of the Loire River and its role in France’s past. A combination of scenography (projected slides); models of barges, windmills, and watermills; holographs of fancy Renaissance balls; and exhibits of materials transported on the barges – salt, tobacco, spices and herbs, wine of course, limestone (for which the area is famous), river rock, and much else.

So to return to the title of this entry, yes we did indeed bike the 15 kilometers from Saumur to Angers, “we” being Tim and I as the girls stayed back, Abbey to do schoolwork and Emma to have downtime. Sans enfants, we set forth along the thankfully flat stretch of road to Montsoreau with the Loire on our left. Some of the road had designated bike paths, but the polite French drivers made the non-bike path portion comfortable. Biking is very popular in the Loire Valley, featuring trails for novices (a notch above ourselves!) and experts (through the hilly vineyards high above the road); therefore, motorists are accustomed to sharing the road. I proudly navigated the roundabouts and eventually learned to look in one direction at a captivating sight while keeping the bike headed properly in the right direction.

It was a lovely day with a slight bit of head wind as we left Saumur, and Tim remarked that we would then have a tail wind for the 15 kilometer return when we were less fresh. Along the roadside, people planted flowers – some perennial, some annual. We saw limestone homes, some built into the limestone-mined hills; intricate wrought iron gates and fences around properties, all with flowers in hanging baskets, pots, or in gardens; wineries, one after the other (no, we did not stop); mushroom places (in season); and suddenly appearing glimpses of the River around multiple bends. A pleasant hour later, we arrive in Montsoreau to a busy little market.

After visiting the castle, we had a lunch at a café in the town’s square, just off the confluence of the Loire and the Vivenne Rivers. Crew teams practiced, and families had fun with canoe-like boats. Feeling somewhat refreshed with the baguette sandwiches, we got back on the bikes, happy to have a tailwind home. But wait – the wind shifted as another front was coming in. No tailwind but instead a rather strong headwind, again. Only us, I thought – sort of like a trip that’s uphill both ways!

We arrived in Saumur pleasantly tired with behinds that were just a bit annoyed with the bike seats. How pleasant to sit in a comfortable chair for a lovely dinner at Place St. Pierre, enjoying fresh tomatoes with olive oil, basil, & mozzarella; seasoned chicken with mushrooms; pommes frites; and of course lovely Champigny wine, the local red that is smooth and dry.

A Week in Saumur, France!

[See A WEEK IN SAUMUR, FRANCE link for pictures]

Wed. 27 August – London to Saumur (via Paris and Angers)!
After an exhausting trip hauling 13 bags of luggage from London to Paris Gare du Nord, on the metro to Montparnasse (never again the metro with so much luggage!!!), from there to Angers, and then to Saumur. The suitcases with the books were the worst. We never could have made it through the metro had not some gracious women helped us with baggage, including one who gave up her stop to help us all the way to Montparnasse train station. When we reached Saumur, no ramps as there had been at Angers. However, Abbey discovered that she could slide suitcases down the bike ramp quite effectively. Interesting sight, watching a piece of luggage slide like a bowling ball across the lower level of the platform – good thing no other passengers who would no doubt be bowling pins!!

Finally, we gather all pieces, and proceed to the taxi station. Hmmm – empty. No taxis!. I asked and was told some would be there in about 20 minutes. We were hot, exhausted, and bruised (particularly Abbey). Two men came along and asked if we had called a taxi; I said no (no public phone in the immediate area); They talked and mentioned about taking us themselves, then looked at our luggage, looked at their cars, and finally one said he’d call a taxi for us.. Another good Samaritan!

He was true to his word for in about 10 minutes, a taxi with plenty of room came. The driver was very nice and laughed when I explained why we had so much. A short ride later we were at Le Volney Hotel, with Monsieur Dalac greeting us by name – and in English. Furnishing us with a map of town, restaurant recommendations, and a reservation for the National Equitation Performance the next day, he helped with luggage to our room. It is a charming room with two full beds, a desk, a bath/sink, a toilet, and a roomy walk-in closet between them. Showering felt sooooo good!

That first night we explored the town a bit and decided to eat at Auberge St. Pierre. Crowded during this last week of vacation for many Europeans, we had to sit inside but found ourselves next to a British family from Manchester. What a great time – we talked about everything and closed down the restaurant (along with a few others) at midnight.

Thurs., 28 August – National Equitation School
Following a continental breakfast at the hotel, the taxi that Mon. Dalac ordered came to take us to the National Equitation School where we saw the Cadre Noir or Black Riders perform. Trainers showed us how they warm up the horses, and several riders and horses did some show jumping. Eight horses and riders illustrated what used to be a military ceremony for a king or queen, including Lipizzaner-like leaps and jumps. No photography allowed but you can see some of the moves if you google the school or even on the Saumur’s website. I did upload some pictures of the stables and grounds where a few horses were being schooled. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and writing postcards. Had a lovely dinner of mussels and Place Bilange.

Fri., 29 August – the Saumur Château
Explored the town some more and visited the Château, built by Louis I (Anjou duke) in the 14th century. Although the upper rooms were closed for renovation, we could visit the ramparts, courtyard, interior court, and an exhibit of horse “gear” (saddles, bridles, bits, etc.). Incredible views of Saumur and this area of the Loire Valley from this limestone castle. After the castle, we visited St. Pierre church where many of the Huguenots gathered as Saumur was a centre of Protestantism until the 1685 Edict of Nantes. As with many churches in this area, St. Pierre has tapestries and intricately carved wooden choir areas. In the afternoon, Tim went to the Musée des Blinds, or the Tank Museum, which has the largest exhibit of tanks in the world. The girls and I took pictures around the town and did some postcard shopping. Hungry for pasta, we ate at a wonderful restaurant on Place St. Pierre, having pasta with pesto or with mushroom cream or with tomato cream sauce. Yun!

Sat., 30 August – the Market and Jacques
Market this morning – what crowded streets. Vendors displaying everything from clothes and accessories to tools to veggies, fruits, cheeses, and meats. Also some live animals. It was here that we had a brief acquaintance with Jacques. Who is Jacques, you ask? Well he is a little French baby duck that Abbey bought at the market because he looked at her with such big eyes. Great! Just what we needed to take back to the hotel, try to smuggle into Italy, and keep in an apartment. Jacques went back to his first home. Our bikes came, but Abbey didn’t want to ride, so Tim, Emma, & I toured around other areas of the town, finding a lovely garden and Notre-Dame de Nantilly, the oldest church in Saumur. Tim & Emma went for Chinese-Vietnamese food; Abbey and I enjoyed a lovely bistro meal. We all met up for some Tira Misu, Mousse Chocolat, and coffee at another place. Such a hard life! Incredible thunderstorm that night – cooled off the temperatures as today was quite warm.

Sun., 31 August – Biking to Montsoreau
See separate blog post.

Mon., 1 Sept. – A Day Trip to Angers
See separate blog post.

Tuesday, 2 Sept. – Italy: Here We Come!
See separate blog post.

Philadelphia to London (en route to Italy via Paris and Saumur)

[See PHILADELPHIA TO LONDON link for pictures]
Monday, 25 August was a crazy day as we checked and rechecked luggage, lists, bills, animals, monies, kids – and KIDS! Emma’s 4 closest friends had to come over after school (their 1st day) to say good bye to her before the airport shuttle picked us up at 4:45. The shuttle was 15 minutes early, and in our rush to headcount baggage (as well as close off contact with University of Iowa – which heads up the Italy program – another story there), I had visions of a Home Alone 2: we’d pack Kristen, Emily, Jaida, or Carolyn and leave Emma behind! Then we couldn’t find Abbey who emerged from a neighbor’s house in time for the 4:45 pick up but “late” for the 4:30 time!


Airport check-in goes smoothly, and our British Air flight for 8:55 boards and departs 30 minutes early, which, with a tailwind, gets us to Heathrow nearly an hour ahead of our 9 am arrival time. Breezing through customs and baggage “reclaim” as the Brits call it, we begin to experience the real downside of having to pack for 9 months abroad. All of us cried when we had to give up the luggage trolley at the airport door.

We raced to catch the Heathrow-Paddington Connection (train), which normally runs every 20 minutes but was not operating properly somehow today. (Yep, we’re here!) Following the train attendants’ motions, Tim, Emma, and I move to the next to last car; Abbey dives with 5 pieces of luggage into the closest one, 5 cars back from us. Hoping and praying this train doesn’t do a disengage as some do and Abbey ends up in Oxford or Dover, I make my way back to her to give her a ticket – just as the conductor came through. Other than that, the train ride goes smoothly.

At Paddington, we quite easily found our way to the hotel, about 2 London blocks from the station. The Ascot Hyde is rated 2 star; I suggest ½ star. Nice staff, but the building is undergoing renovation that neither is moving quickly enough nor is complete enough to address the issues of lifts to 4th floor (2 sq. inches), thin walls (ooo laa laa’s next door), and lobby space (1 sq. inch). We won’t discuss the marketing aspects: “Quad room with bathroom ensuite.” Full bath ensuite – yes; quad room – let’s just say, 3 beds (1 a double) were placed into a room made for 2 twins by Italian standard!!! But hey, it was affordable and close.

After cleaning up, purchasing a new piece of luggage to accommodate the little carryon’s, getting some good fish and chips, we explored Kensington Gardens. It was a lovely evening, and we enjoyed the stroll. When we come back to London for New Year’s week, our apartment will be on the other side of the Gardens in Kensington proper.

An early bedtime for jet-lagged people, but about 11 pm, we woke up thinking it was morning. For some reason all of us got the giggles – can’t even remember what it was about! Got luggage organized, hauling luggage down lift (piece by piece – remember the lift’s size!), had a nice breakfast with fantastic English tea, and then loading into the taxi for St. Pancras Station and the Eurostar.

With big bags checked (more $) on the Eurostar, we enjoyed another cup of tea in the station before boarding and going through EU customs. The station has been remodeled and is beautiful: clean, easy to follow directions, and just enough cafes for a short wait. The ride to Paris was pleasant; in just a little over two hours (same time to fly), we were Gare du Nord.

And here is where the horrors of baggage hauling begin. See “A Week in Saumur” post for details!!

Friday, September 5, 2008

Paderno del Grappa, Veneto, ITALY

Buongiorno! We made it. So much to tell but so little time right now as we go through orientations for school, settle into the apartment, and practice driving in Italy ( a cute little Fiat Punto 5-speed). Thank goodness I have always had stick shifts. Tim is getting the hang of Italian driving a little too well for my liking! Despite strict speed restrictions (new to Italian culture evidently), the drivers here are quite a bit less "civilized" than those in France!

Some basics until I can update with more detail: apartment is about a 5-minute walk from campus. It is lovely with Italian (naturally) tile and hardwood floors. Two spacious bedrooms (unfortunately Abbey and Emma will need to learn how to share space!), a small kitchen area that opens into a large room with dining set and living area (2 couches and table and small tv) and desk area. The girls have a bath (no shower/tub) off their room; we have a full bath (shower only) in between the two bedrooms. Windows with functional shutters. The view of the Dolomites is awe-inspiring -- just out our window! Lovely -- so easy to feel at home.

We will be busy with orientations until Sat. afternoon, after which we will have some time to prepare for classes and to arrange pictures to upload. Lots of funny stories to share as well.

Monday, September 1, 2008

!!!!!!!WOW!!!!!!!

Okay...
It is worse than I feared,
this family is truly insane.
Speaking of family....
I was on the train today touring around Angers (I think that's how it is spelled) and there was a British women in front of me and her friend was behind(me). Anyway, she turned around and yelled to her friend then looked at me and said how sorry she was for yelling in my ear. I looked at her and said quiet honestly that I was unaware she had spoken. Then proceeded to "TRY" and explain our family.
hehehehe
Thought you all would enjoy my little story of the day. If you would like another Abbey Story and have not yet heard of my pet duck, I'm sure mom would love to fill anyone in. (Okay and FYI the rents (parents) played a cold hearted part.)
Hope everyone is doing well!!!
Ciao