Spring is here in the Veneto. Though nights are often chilly, the sun warms the afternoons. Fruit trees are blooming as are spring flowers. Mt. Grappa is still snow-covered at the top, but below the tree line, green gradually emerges. Looking out our kitchen/dining room window, I see a neighbor work his garden patch in preparation for planting. I remember how full and bountiful it was last fall. Everyday, he was tending it diligently; with his work now, I am certain this year the garden will be as productive. Yesterday, he had it roto-tilled. I watched as the men, both of whom are probably in their late 60's, begin the process. Despite the handwork to turn over the ground, the roto-tiller caught several times, but working together, the men finished quite quickly, and the soil is now smooth and ready for planting. I’ll have to check today to see what is next. Tim was asking about him and the garden the other day; we both enjoyed watching the progress last fall.
It is travel week 2 this week. By late Friday, most of the students had left for various places; some planned to leave early Saturday, though we met Jonathan Holmes at the Sunday market. He was leaving for Palermo on Monday. Originally we had planned to go to Switzerland this week. However, a re-evaluation of the budget revealed that, with our France, England, and Wales tour at semester end, we should postpone expensive Switzerland for another time. Also, I looked at the stack of reports and other assignments on my desk, the uncompleted itinerary for France and the UK with Deena, and the dust bunnies no longer contained in the apartment’s corners – best to stay put, get work done, and tour locally. After all, the Veneto is a beautiful, diverse region – and spring is here.
Abbey, Emma, and I are also getting ready for Tim to visit. Emma has been e-mailing him lists of what to bring over, though I remind her that what comes here must go back, and with our 3-week trip through France and the UK before heading back to the States, she might want to consider luggage weight. Memories of our lugging 7 checked-in bags and 8 carry-on’s back in August quickly come to mind. “Lugging” – an appropriate term, no doubt from the word “luggage.” Yes, 15 bags in total we had. I don’t care what Rick Steves says; it is IMPOSSIBLE to pack for nine months of living abroad in a small carry-on, especially with school books. Nevertheless, traveling light is best. What we don’t need for our last few weeks here will go back with Tim or be shipped from the local post office. We will have to get organized and packed up to know what to send. Well, as Scarlet O’Hara would say, “I’ll think about that tomorrow.” Besides, it’s a warm, sunny day – and spring is here!
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 9
This week the Intercultural Communications students are presenting (via slides) a comparison/contrast of Italian and American culture. Each student selected a topic and researched the differences and similarities between the two countries. Topics include government, sports, music, weddings, cuisine, nightlife, education, business, etiquette, fashion, holidays, television, immigration, and gender. It is often surprising what one learns by paying attention to the “everyday” aspects of life. As with other assignments for the course, this one too prompts discussion based on not only the researched information but also the personal experience of living in another country.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 6
January, February, and March are popular months at CIMBA for birthdays. Not only Abbey and Emma, but also Jessica Carrese, Tori Scheidt, Meaghan Hinder, Tommy Thompson, Matt Hanrahan, Marta Crabbia, Stephanie Herr, Graham Ryan, Kristina Rood, Kelly Heesch most of them in February. Who else am I forgetting? There were several more, surely. Anyway, we celebrated a few with “Happy Birthday’s” sung (usually in multiple keys at once) in classes or at lunch. Some we celebrated at the local pizzeria, Al Sole. Luigini, who owns it with her husband Fabbio, graciously lets us use a side room for larger get-togethers that we can decorate with balloons and Buon Compleanno (happy birthday) banners.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
Tuesday, March 24, 2009
Lucca & Pisa, Tuscany
Not a travel weekend, nevertheless the wanderlust struck, and I definitely wanted to visit Lucca and Pisa before we left Italy. Besides, with spring fever hitting me, I felt the need to go south, and what better place at this time than Tuscany. Friday, 13 March (yes, I know – the 13th!!), Emma and I headed toward Castelfranco to catch the train to Padua and then to Prato and finally to Lucca. Abbey was assistant trainer for the LIFE executive program for the weekend, so it was just the two of us.
Not having made the ticket reservations beforehand as I usually do, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make the connections. However, the automated ticket machines proved quite easy to use for the regional trains. The friendly Trenitalia ticket man quickly booked us the IC (InnerCity) from Padua to Prato and saved us money by recommending a different Eurostar from Florence to Padua on our return. As a result, we enjoyed a 50% discount!! He has waited on me several times and is always pleasant, remembering always the previous bookings he has made for us.
Other than a fast connect at Prato Centrale for Lucca (Emma afraid that I wasn’t going to get on the train in time), we had an uneventful trip, arriving in Lucca about 1:30. Spring was definitely here. In the Veneto, traces can be seen with crocuses, daffodils, forsythia, and early blooming fruit trees; however, the magnolias and early summer flowers are visible everywhere in this part of Tuscany. The air smelled like spring – fresh, clean, warm.
Emma and I went first to the TI (Tourist Information) by the train station for a city map, and the man gave us a lot of information about sights to see and events. Breakfast having been a so-so sandwich on the train, we stopped at a pleasant caffe/ristorante just inside the city walls. The weather was warm and sunny, so we were able to enjoy eating outside. Emma had one of her favorits, penne all’arrabiata (red sauce with pepperocini), and I had fresh salad with grilled vegetables. Afterward, we made our way to Piazza Napolean (he was here in Lucca too!!!) and Piazza San Michele, turning onto Via Roma and then onto Via Cenami to our hotel, Al Tuscany, a bed & breakfast.
Isabella, the afternoon staff person, greeted us and showed us to our room – complete with a kitchenette. Because the building the hotel was in was undergoing renovations, we had a back room that was quiet and roomy. Emma and I quickly settled in, and then we began exploring this delightful town, scouting out restaurants for dinner. Frances Mayes is right: in Italy, one is no more through with lunch than he or she is already contemplating dinner!!
Lucca is charming. About the size of Siena and as old, it has less the Medieval characteristics that Siena has. Or perhaps, those characteristics are defined differently because of geography. Both are walled cities – with walls intact. Both are old cities, with ties to the Roman era and before. However, while hilltop Siena’s steep grades to keep those leg muscles in shape and has retained its somber, grey architecture in true Medieval fashion, Lucca’s streets undulate and its impressive buildings complement the many budding gardens within the city walls. Siena seems to enclose itself, separated from the Tuscan countryside; Lucca embraces the gentle green hills that slope westward towards the sea and eastward towards Florence. I loved both cities, so I suspect my appreciation for Lucca was connected in part to spring fever.
The Guinigi family who put Lucca on the Renaissance map with the silk industry evidently loved gardens. Even their tower rooftop features a garden with full-sized trees. The walls of the city are wide, about 3 miles around. To ensure enemies were unable to camouflage themselves, the Luccans cleared several hundred feet of brush and trees. Today, this immense circular green serves as a field for hikers and pet owners. The wall also features arrow-shaped jut-outs, that once were for weapons and defense and now provide locals and tourists with glorious views. On this warm Friday afternoon, Emma and I enjoyed a walk on the ramparts with spring-filled Tuscan hills and plains on one side and terra-cotta Luccan rooftops on the other.
We found small pizzeria-ristorante for dinner, deciding to bypass the more expensive trattorias. Chiana beef is popular here; remembering how exquisite it was in Cortona, I ordered the taglia al rucola (rare sliced beef on arugula with garlic and olive oil). Emma opted for a hearty Tuscan soup, much like the ribollita of Siena – a vegetable soup with chunks of bread. Back at the hotel, we read for a bit – Emma with Mathilda and Diary of a Wimpy Kid; I with Bella Tuscany.
Saturday was another beautiful day – perfect for the antique market in Lucca’s streets. Like most markets, there was the usual “junk”; however, the antique markets also draw some vendors with quality merchandise. I saw many things that I would love to have – but no way to transport them. Lucky for the checkbook!
We found San Giovanni church, where the Puccini concert is held every evening at 7:00. Our hotel provided us with complimentary tickets, so we decided to do the concert tonight. Then on to the Duomo, San Martino, an incredibly big, beautiful church. Because it is being renovated, inside and out, the scaffolding and curtains discouraged picture takers, so I bought a postcard depicting what the church looks like “normally.”
After San Martino, we walked to Torre Guinigi, the Guinigi family’s tower. Rather than castles, many of the wealthy, powerful people of the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods built towers as residence; these were, essentially rooms upon rooms with the stairs connecting them. The Torre Guinigi is not particularly tall; however, its 270+ steps certainly provide exercise. Can you imagine just going out the front door to discover you’d left something on the top floor?? Most of the tower’s steps were the original stone, but towards the top, steel risers had been installed. Quite a few frescoes still remain, particularly on the lower levels, as does a huge fireplace, perhaps one that was used for cooking. The highlight, however, is the rooftop garden, complete with two tall trees. The view of Lucca and its environs are beautiful from there, especially the wall.
Time for lunch, which again, we enjoyed outside. Then bike riding on the ramparts! The flat top of the wide walls is easily accessible from the several porti, or gates into the city. It’s a local favorite for joggers, walkers, and bikers – and obviously a draw for tourists as well, particularly on such a beautiful day. Nearly 3 miles around, the 16th century walls offer shady tree-lined areas and warm, sunny picnic spots on the 8 or so arrow-shaped jut-outs. After 2 times around, Emma and I regained some strength with a gelatto break, and then did another go-around before returning our bikes.
Perhaps the highlight of the day was the Puccini concert. Lucca is the composer’s birthplace, and his house is a small museum that contains among other items the piano that he used to compose Turandot, one of his famous operas. Sadly, the museum is temporarily closed; evidently some family dispute with either the city or among themselves. Anyway, the city celebrates Puccini with a nightly concert in San Giovanni church, featuring arias from his works plus selections from other composers such as Mozart, Verdi, and Mascagni. A soprano and a tenor were the soloists this evening, and the pianist was the music director. The soprano was incredible; she was French, although most of the performers are Italian singers, all of whom are professional. Her voice was strong and full but with a rich clarity that prevented any heaviness in tone some sopranos have. One of the numbers was “O mio babbino caro” from Gianni Schicchi, one of the songs that Abbey does; also songs from La Traviata and La Boheme.
Next morning after breakfast – off to Pisa, about 20-minute train ride. Again I panicked Emma inadvertently by getting off the train at the 1st Pisa station (which would have been alright) instead of Centrale (main station); I barely made it back on the train. Since it was Sunday, no TI was open for a full map of the town, I was glad to have brought the Rick Steves’ map from his travel book. Set along the Arno River, Pisa features the tiny 12th century church, Santa Maria della Spina, whose Gothic spikey spires are more typical of the grand duomos, such as the one in Milan. On Sunday several of the streets are pedestrian only, making an afternoon passagiata pleasant for everyone. Also of interest is Piazza dei Cavalieri with a frescoed palace and statue of Cosimo I de Medici (with an intense expression), ruler of Pisa in the 16th century.
Pisa was a major power during the Middle Ages; its proximity to the sea presented an advantage that its neighbors, Florence and Siena, did not have – a harbor not far from the city proper. However, as the many city-states shuffled for power and independence, Genoa would become the mightier port city by the early 14th century. During the Renaissance, Pisa was controlled by Florence (hence the Medici statute) – a good thing for art but bad for governing independence. Today its claim to fame is, of course, its leaning tower and its Duomo and Baptistry, all in the Campo dei Miracoli, Field of Miracles.
Approaching the Field of Miracles from Via Santa Maria, I was immediately awestruck with the whiteness of the buildings – all marble. The style is called Pisan Romanesque, according to the guidebooks, a blending of the weightier features a Romanesque design with the white marble and an airiness in the design space. Definitely celestial! I was also amazed to find that the Leaning Tower didn’t lean – ahem, from my perspective. A quick few steps revealed just how much it does indeed lean!
The Tower’s slant is due to the sandy soil. Built at the end of the 12th century, the Tower evidently begin its sideways descent before construction was completed.; today it is nearly 18 feet from vertical! As an iconic symbol of Pisa, the Tower has attracted people throughout the ages from all countries., including Galileo who used it to conduct velocity experiments. 15€ gets one to the top for a lovely view of the city; however, the price as well as the warnings about the slant and rather unsubstantial railings deter some people – myself included. Brunellschi’s Dome in Florence was well worth the 8€ and 476 steps for the stunning panorama WITH secure railings. I wasn’t so sure that I could do Pisa’s Tower!
After lunch in the warm sunshine, Emma and slowly meandered back, stopping to watch crewing on the Arno. With an eye to the pocket book, we bought some cheese, crackers, fruit, and a Chianti (for me) at a small market, and ate in while I finished grading student reports.
Monday morning we were to catch an 8:33 train to Florence, stopping there to pick up a Tuscan pitcher that Kathy wanted. Marina, the B&B manager/owner, prepared breakfast a little early so that we would have something. Her grandparents were from Lucca; however, Marina was born and raised in Scotland and speaks with a decided Scottish brogue. She is friendly and runs a pleasant, comfortable establishment that I would recommend. We said our goodbyes, walked the short distance to the station, and were off to Florence.
Checking our bag at the Florence station, Emma and I explored the Straw Market as we made our way to the pottery shop on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio and Arno. Errand completed, we stopped for lunch at the Duomo caffe where we had eaten last fall, and then back to get our luggage and catch the train to Padua and then to Castelfranco. By 5:30, we were home, catching up on news with Abbey, and thinking about school the next day.
Already, I miss Tuscany.
Not having made the ticket reservations beforehand as I usually do, I wasn’t sure how easy it would be to make the connections. However, the automated ticket machines proved quite easy to use for the regional trains. The friendly Trenitalia ticket man quickly booked us the IC (InnerCity) from Padua to Prato and saved us money by recommending a different Eurostar from Florence to Padua on our return. As a result, we enjoyed a 50% discount!! He has waited on me several times and is always pleasant, remembering always the previous bookings he has made for us.
Other than a fast connect at Prato Centrale for Lucca (Emma afraid that I wasn’t going to get on the train in time), we had an uneventful trip, arriving in Lucca about 1:30. Spring was definitely here. In the Veneto, traces can be seen with crocuses, daffodils, forsythia, and early blooming fruit trees; however, the magnolias and early summer flowers are visible everywhere in this part of Tuscany. The air smelled like spring – fresh, clean, warm.
Emma and I went first to the TI (Tourist Information) by the train station for a city map, and the man gave us a lot of information about sights to see and events. Breakfast having been a so-so sandwich on the train, we stopped at a pleasant caffe/ristorante just inside the city walls. The weather was warm and sunny, so we were able to enjoy eating outside. Emma had one of her favorits, penne all’arrabiata (red sauce with pepperocini), and I had fresh salad with grilled vegetables. Afterward, we made our way to Piazza Napolean (he was here in Lucca too!!!) and Piazza San Michele, turning onto Via Roma and then onto Via Cenami to our hotel, Al Tuscany, a bed & breakfast.
Isabella, the afternoon staff person, greeted us and showed us to our room – complete with a kitchenette. Because the building the hotel was in was undergoing renovations, we had a back room that was quiet and roomy. Emma and I quickly settled in, and then we began exploring this delightful town, scouting out restaurants for dinner. Frances Mayes is right: in Italy, one is no more through with lunch than he or she is already contemplating dinner!!
Lucca is charming. About the size of Siena and as old, it has less the Medieval characteristics that Siena has. Or perhaps, those characteristics are defined differently because of geography. Both are walled cities – with walls intact. Both are old cities, with ties to the Roman era and before. However, while hilltop Siena’s steep grades to keep those leg muscles in shape and has retained its somber, grey architecture in true Medieval fashion, Lucca’s streets undulate and its impressive buildings complement the many budding gardens within the city walls. Siena seems to enclose itself, separated from the Tuscan countryside; Lucca embraces the gentle green hills that slope westward towards the sea and eastward towards Florence. I loved both cities, so I suspect my appreciation for Lucca was connected in part to spring fever.
The Guinigi family who put Lucca on the Renaissance map with the silk industry evidently loved gardens. Even their tower rooftop features a garden with full-sized trees. The walls of the city are wide, about 3 miles around. To ensure enemies were unable to camouflage themselves, the Luccans cleared several hundred feet of brush and trees. Today, this immense circular green serves as a field for hikers and pet owners. The wall also features arrow-shaped jut-outs, that once were for weapons and defense and now provide locals and tourists with glorious views. On this warm Friday afternoon, Emma and I enjoyed a walk on the ramparts with spring-filled Tuscan hills and plains on one side and terra-cotta Luccan rooftops on the other.
We found small pizzeria-ristorante for dinner, deciding to bypass the more expensive trattorias. Chiana beef is popular here; remembering how exquisite it was in Cortona, I ordered the taglia al rucola (rare sliced beef on arugula with garlic and olive oil). Emma opted for a hearty Tuscan soup, much like the ribollita of Siena – a vegetable soup with chunks of bread. Back at the hotel, we read for a bit – Emma with Mathilda and Diary of a Wimpy Kid; I with Bella Tuscany.
Saturday was another beautiful day – perfect for the antique market in Lucca’s streets. Like most markets, there was the usual “junk”; however, the antique markets also draw some vendors with quality merchandise. I saw many things that I would love to have – but no way to transport them. Lucky for the checkbook!
We found San Giovanni church, where the Puccini concert is held every evening at 7:00. Our hotel provided us with complimentary tickets, so we decided to do the concert tonight. Then on to the Duomo, San Martino, an incredibly big, beautiful church. Because it is being renovated, inside and out, the scaffolding and curtains discouraged picture takers, so I bought a postcard depicting what the church looks like “normally.”
After San Martino, we walked to Torre Guinigi, the Guinigi family’s tower. Rather than castles, many of the wealthy, powerful people of the late Medieval and early Renaissance periods built towers as residence; these were, essentially rooms upon rooms with the stairs connecting them. The Torre Guinigi is not particularly tall; however, its 270+ steps certainly provide exercise. Can you imagine just going out the front door to discover you’d left something on the top floor?? Most of the tower’s steps were the original stone, but towards the top, steel risers had been installed. Quite a few frescoes still remain, particularly on the lower levels, as does a huge fireplace, perhaps one that was used for cooking. The highlight, however, is the rooftop garden, complete with two tall trees. The view of Lucca and its environs are beautiful from there, especially the wall.
Time for lunch, which again, we enjoyed outside. Then bike riding on the ramparts! The flat top of the wide walls is easily accessible from the several porti, or gates into the city. It’s a local favorite for joggers, walkers, and bikers – and obviously a draw for tourists as well, particularly on such a beautiful day. Nearly 3 miles around, the 16th century walls offer shady tree-lined areas and warm, sunny picnic spots on the 8 or so arrow-shaped jut-outs. After 2 times around, Emma and I regained some strength with a gelatto break, and then did another go-around before returning our bikes.
Perhaps the highlight of the day was the Puccini concert. Lucca is the composer’s birthplace, and his house is a small museum that contains among other items the piano that he used to compose Turandot, one of his famous operas. Sadly, the museum is temporarily closed; evidently some family dispute with either the city or among themselves. Anyway, the city celebrates Puccini with a nightly concert in San Giovanni church, featuring arias from his works plus selections from other composers such as Mozart, Verdi, and Mascagni. A soprano and a tenor were the soloists this evening, and the pianist was the music director. The soprano was incredible; she was French, although most of the performers are Italian singers, all of whom are professional. Her voice was strong and full but with a rich clarity that prevented any heaviness in tone some sopranos have. One of the numbers was “O mio babbino caro” from Gianni Schicchi, one of the songs that Abbey does; also songs from La Traviata and La Boheme.
Next morning after breakfast – off to Pisa, about 20-minute train ride. Again I panicked Emma inadvertently by getting off the train at the 1st Pisa station (which would have been alright) instead of Centrale (main station); I barely made it back on the train. Since it was Sunday, no TI was open for a full map of the town, I was glad to have brought the Rick Steves’ map from his travel book. Set along the Arno River, Pisa features the tiny 12th century church, Santa Maria della Spina, whose Gothic spikey spires are more typical of the grand duomos, such as the one in Milan. On Sunday several of the streets are pedestrian only, making an afternoon passagiata pleasant for everyone. Also of interest is Piazza dei Cavalieri with a frescoed palace and statue of Cosimo I de Medici (with an intense expression), ruler of Pisa in the 16th century.
Pisa was a major power during the Middle Ages; its proximity to the sea presented an advantage that its neighbors, Florence and Siena, did not have – a harbor not far from the city proper. However, as the many city-states shuffled for power and independence, Genoa would become the mightier port city by the early 14th century. During the Renaissance, Pisa was controlled by Florence (hence the Medici statute) – a good thing for art but bad for governing independence. Today its claim to fame is, of course, its leaning tower and its Duomo and Baptistry, all in the Campo dei Miracoli, Field of Miracles.
Approaching the Field of Miracles from Via Santa Maria, I was immediately awestruck with the whiteness of the buildings – all marble. The style is called Pisan Romanesque, according to the guidebooks, a blending of the weightier features a Romanesque design with the white marble and an airiness in the design space. Definitely celestial! I was also amazed to find that the Leaning Tower didn’t lean – ahem, from my perspective. A quick few steps revealed just how much it does indeed lean!
The Tower’s slant is due to the sandy soil. Built at the end of the 12th century, the Tower evidently begin its sideways descent before construction was completed.; today it is nearly 18 feet from vertical! As an iconic symbol of Pisa, the Tower has attracted people throughout the ages from all countries., including Galileo who used it to conduct velocity experiments. 15€ gets one to the top for a lovely view of the city; however, the price as well as the warnings about the slant and rather unsubstantial railings deter some people – myself included. Brunellschi’s Dome in Florence was well worth the 8€ and 476 steps for the stunning panorama WITH secure railings. I wasn’t so sure that I could do Pisa’s Tower!
After lunch in the warm sunshine, Emma and slowly meandered back, stopping to watch crewing on the Arno. With an eye to the pocket book, we bought some cheese, crackers, fruit, and a Chianti (for me) at a small market, and ate in while I finished grading student reports.
Monday morning we were to catch an 8:33 train to Florence, stopping there to pick up a Tuscan pitcher that Kathy wanted. Marina, the B&B manager/owner, prepared breakfast a little early so that we would have something. Her grandparents were from Lucca; however, Marina was born and raised in Scotland and speaks with a decided Scottish brogue. She is friendly and runs a pleasant, comfortable establishment that I would recommend. We said our goodbyes, walked the short distance to the station, and were off to Florence.
Checking our bag at the Florence station, Emma and I explored the Straw Market as we made our way to the pottery shop on the other side of the Ponte Vecchio and Arno. Errand completed, we stopped for lunch at the Duomo caffe where we had eaten last fall, and then back to get our luggage and catch the train to Padua and then to Castelfranco. By 5:30, we were home, catching up on news with Abbey, and thinking about school the next day.
Already, I miss Tuscany.
Venice Carnavale and Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
Venice Carnavale
People with elaborate masks and period costumes wander the streets, stopping to pose for pictures. In San Marco Piazza, puppet shows and theatre mimes amuse children – and adults. Strains of The Four Seasons by Venetian-born Vivaldi emanate from every corner as decorated gondolas form parades on the canals, their riders serenaded with familiar melodies. It’s February and time once again for Venice Carnavale.
Ten days before Lent, this extravaganza kicks off every year, much like its New Orleans relative, Mardi Gras. Thursday, 19th of February, Kathy, Abbey, Emma, and I were a part of this celebration. With some specific sight-seeing places, such as the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Accademia art museum, on my itinerary for Kathy, we made it to only Basilica San Marco, St. Mark’s Church. Too much Carnavale to experience simply by meandering through the streets and piazzi in the San Marco district. The weather was beautiful: sunny and unseasonably warm for February. We needed only a light coat during the day, though nights chilled quickly.
Many towns and cities in Italy celebrate Carnavale, with different themes – Medieval or quirky Halloween-like humor such as the one in Viareggio in Tuscany. Venice’s Carnavale relives the splendor of the 18th century. The costumes are extraordinary, as elaborate as any in a Merchant-Ivory historical film. From feathered hats and powdered wigs to buttoned shoes and spats, the revelers looked as if they had stepped out of French palace before the Revolution of 1789, of course. Rich reds, iridescent blues and purples, deep greens, and the stark black and white – color was everywhere.
Where we would normally gawk at frescoes and Corinthian columns, we now watched for the next costumed passer-byes who would obliging stop for us to take a picture. During the day, the revelers walk throughout the city, or at least one of the six sestieri or districts; at night, those who can afford it, attend one or more of the many events or balls, that cost 350€ to 800€ to attend! On the vaporetto that morning, I had met a woman from England, having flown in just for the day to meet some costumed friends who were attending a mystery ball that night – in masks, of course.
The masks themselves are remarkable. Many are handmade in Italy, and those with hand-painted ceramic faces and jewels are the most costly. We settled for the traditional, affordable ones – after all, colored glass can sparkle just as well! Impossible to describe well, these masks should be viewed to be appreciated. Hint: look at the pictures of Carnavale. [forthcoming]
Our hotel reserved us a spot with a gondola parade in the afternoon. Donning our masks, we met our gondolier on the Grand Canal, near our hotel. Along with about 8 other festively-decorated gondolas, we experienced Venice from the water, and it is indeed a quite different perspective. Many of the canals in the city are narrow, and the gondolier expertly guided us around moored boats and docks, often with an inch gap - just like my navigating the narrow “roads” of Asolo, I thought to myself, remembering the first time I drove them thinking they were one-way alleys until I saw the approaching car. Good thing that mirrors fold in; good thing that gondolas have no mirrors, I thought, as my coat sleeve brushed a rubber-sided dock.
Watermarks from flooding are evident on the buildings, and often steps lead up to the “back door” entrance of a building. We passed under several bridges, waving to the pedestrians above who were either in costume or were tourists taking pictures of those in costume. The narrow canals wind their ways into a larger one, and eventually we were back on the Grand Canal amidst the vaporetti, water taxis, and private boats. Interesting experience being rocked by the waves from a vaporetta when sitting only a few inches above the water in a gondola!
Kathy shopped for gifts to take home and for a charm denoting Italy, eventually finding a gondola one. Then back to the hotel for some rest before dinner. We stayed in Hotel Saturnia & International, about a 5-minute walk from Piazza San Marco – a lovely hotel with distinctive Venetian decor. Normally it would be out of our price range as a 4-star, but it offered a substantial 50% discount for a one-night, non-weekend stay during Carnavale. Glad we grabbed it up! So did the girls as their room had a jacuzzi! I luxuriated in a bath (our apartment has only a shower) before dinner with a glass of Sangiovese Valpolicella. Kath laid on the bed and read (through her eyelids).
That evening we ate dinner in a small restaurant just off Piazza San Marco. Tim, Emma, and I had eaten there on a prior day trip to Venice last fall. Good food, inexpensive, and frequented by locals as well as tourists. One of the best penne all’arrabiatta ever. Penne all’arrabiatta is literally penne with angry sauce; it’s spiced with pepperocini, Italian hot peppers, just a bit different from the chile peppers, but just as hot.
After a delicious breakfast, we leisurely made our way back – down Via XXII Novembre to Piazza Santa Maria Zobenigo, turning down the narrow alley, Campo dell Traghetto to the vaporetti stand and back to Santa Lucia train station for a train to Florence. The vaporetta was packed, many regular locals heading to the Rialto fish market, but also many tourists. A quick glance at the vaporetti headed toward San Marco reassured us that we did Carnavale at the right time. Indeed we later learned that our decision not to return on Sunday from Florence was a good one; the trains that night were so full, people were standing in the aisles, and there weren’t enough trains to accommodate the people.
At 12:47, the Eurostar left, and we arrived at Santa Maria Novella station in Florence at 2:30.
Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
I hadn’t originally planned on taking Kath to Florence, since she was watching the budget after a long trip to Australia to visit Jen. However, when she came, she commented that a friend back home said she should see Florence if possible. No arguments from me, plus Emma remarked that she would love to spend her 12th birthday there, place of her favorite soup! So we worked in the weekend to allow for a half day on Friday and full one on Saturday.
Our budget hotel was on Via Cavour, about a 15-minute walk from the station. Problem was I wasn’t sure when we got to Via Cavour whether the hotel was down toward the city center or up toward Piazza della Liberta. While I walked to a store to ask, Kath and the girls waited at the corner. Before long, two ladies walking by stopped to ask if they needed help. One of the women and Abbey were communicating fairly comfortably in Italian when I walked back – with no directional information. The women, however, knew where the hotel was, but we were stuck on a word. Inglese, I asked? No, non bene, one replied. Okay, I thought; let’s go down the list. Franchese (French)? No, no, no, she emphatically shook her head. Last shot – Tedeschi (German)? Ja, ja, Ich spreche Deutsch, the other woman replied. Ich bin eine Polander (yes, I speak German; I’m from Poland). So while Abbey and the one woman spoke in Italian, the other and I did in German. The directions were perfect; we found the hotel, about 10 minutes from the Duomo.
We unpacked and immediately headed to the Duomo to climb the Dome for some pictures. Kath almost made it to the top, so Abbey took her camera to get her pictures with it. The late afternoon was clear, and the sun was setting, turning the clouds a deep orange against the blue-dark sky. Florence at sunset!
After climbing down, we met Kath and headed to find pizzeria for dinner. Then back for an early night to prepare for the big day tomorrow.
21st of February – Emma’s birthday. An all-day celebration, no doubt.
People with elaborate masks and period costumes wander the streets, stopping to pose for pictures. In San Marco Piazza, puppet shows and theatre mimes amuse children – and adults. Strains of The Four Seasons by Venetian-born Vivaldi emanate from every corner as decorated gondolas form parades on the canals, their riders serenaded with familiar melodies. It’s February and time once again for Venice Carnavale.
Ten days before Lent, this extravaganza kicks off every year, much like its New Orleans relative, Mardi Gras. Thursday, 19th of February, Kathy, Abbey, Emma, and I were a part of this celebration. With some specific sight-seeing places, such as the Palazzo Ducale (Doge’s Palace) and the Accademia art museum, on my itinerary for Kathy, we made it to only Basilica San Marco, St. Mark’s Church. Too much Carnavale to experience simply by meandering through the streets and piazzi in the San Marco district. The weather was beautiful: sunny and unseasonably warm for February. We needed only a light coat during the day, though nights chilled quickly.
Many towns and cities in Italy celebrate Carnavale, with different themes – Medieval or quirky Halloween-like humor such as the one in Viareggio in Tuscany. Venice’s Carnavale relives the splendor of the 18th century. The costumes are extraordinary, as elaborate as any in a Merchant-Ivory historical film. From feathered hats and powdered wigs to buttoned shoes and spats, the revelers looked as if they had stepped out of French palace before the Revolution of 1789, of course. Rich reds, iridescent blues and purples, deep greens, and the stark black and white – color was everywhere.
Where we would normally gawk at frescoes and Corinthian columns, we now watched for the next costumed passer-byes who would obliging stop for us to take a picture. During the day, the revelers walk throughout the city, or at least one of the six sestieri or districts; at night, those who can afford it, attend one or more of the many events or balls, that cost 350€ to 800€ to attend! On the vaporetto that morning, I had met a woman from England, having flown in just for the day to meet some costumed friends who were attending a mystery ball that night – in masks, of course.
The masks themselves are remarkable. Many are handmade in Italy, and those with hand-painted ceramic faces and jewels are the most costly. We settled for the traditional, affordable ones – after all, colored glass can sparkle just as well! Impossible to describe well, these masks should be viewed to be appreciated. Hint: look at the pictures of Carnavale. [forthcoming]
Our hotel reserved us a spot with a gondola parade in the afternoon. Donning our masks, we met our gondolier on the Grand Canal, near our hotel. Along with about 8 other festively-decorated gondolas, we experienced Venice from the water, and it is indeed a quite different perspective. Many of the canals in the city are narrow, and the gondolier expertly guided us around moored boats and docks, often with an inch gap - just like my navigating the narrow “roads” of Asolo, I thought to myself, remembering the first time I drove them thinking they were one-way alleys until I saw the approaching car. Good thing that mirrors fold in; good thing that gondolas have no mirrors, I thought, as my coat sleeve brushed a rubber-sided dock.
Watermarks from flooding are evident on the buildings, and often steps lead up to the “back door” entrance of a building. We passed under several bridges, waving to the pedestrians above who were either in costume or were tourists taking pictures of those in costume. The narrow canals wind their ways into a larger one, and eventually we were back on the Grand Canal amidst the vaporetti, water taxis, and private boats. Interesting experience being rocked by the waves from a vaporetta when sitting only a few inches above the water in a gondola!
Kathy shopped for gifts to take home and for a charm denoting Italy, eventually finding a gondola one. Then back to the hotel for some rest before dinner. We stayed in Hotel Saturnia & International, about a 5-minute walk from Piazza San Marco – a lovely hotel with distinctive Venetian decor. Normally it would be out of our price range as a 4-star, but it offered a substantial 50% discount for a one-night, non-weekend stay during Carnavale. Glad we grabbed it up! So did the girls as their room had a jacuzzi! I luxuriated in a bath (our apartment has only a shower) before dinner with a glass of Sangiovese Valpolicella. Kath laid on the bed and read (through her eyelids).
That evening we ate dinner in a small restaurant just off Piazza San Marco. Tim, Emma, and I had eaten there on a prior day trip to Venice last fall. Good food, inexpensive, and frequented by locals as well as tourists. One of the best penne all’arrabiatta ever. Penne all’arrabiatta is literally penne with angry sauce; it’s spiced with pepperocini, Italian hot peppers, just a bit different from the chile peppers, but just as hot.
After a delicious breakfast, we leisurely made our way back – down Via XXII Novembre to Piazza Santa Maria Zobenigo, turning down the narrow alley, Campo dell Traghetto to the vaporetti stand and back to Santa Lucia train station for a train to Florence. The vaporetta was packed, many regular locals heading to the Rialto fish market, but also many tourists. A quick glance at the vaporetti headed toward San Marco reassured us that we did Carnavale at the right time. Indeed we later learned that our decision not to return on Sunday from Florence was a good one; the trains that night were so full, people were standing in the aisles, and there weren’t enough trains to accommodate the people.
At 12:47, the Eurostar left, and we arrived at Santa Maria Novella station in Florence at 2:30.
Florence Reprise for Emma’s 12th Birthday
I hadn’t originally planned on taking Kath to Florence, since she was watching the budget after a long trip to Australia to visit Jen. However, when she came, she commented that a friend back home said she should see Florence if possible. No arguments from me, plus Emma remarked that she would love to spend her 12th birthday there, place of her favorite soup! So we worked in the weekend to allow for a half day on Friday and full one on Saturday.
Our budget hotel was on Via Cavour, about a 15-minute walk from the station. Problem was I wasn’t sure when we got to Via Cavour whether the hotel was down toward the city center or up toward Piazza della Liberta. While I walked to a store to ask, Kath and the girls waited at the corner. Before long, two ladies walking by stopped to ask if they needed help. One of the women and Abbey were communicating fairly comfortably in Italian when I walked back – with no directional information. The women, however, knew where the hotel was, but we were stuck on a word. Inglese, I asked? No, non bene, one replied. Okay, I thought; let’s go down the list. Franchese (French)? No, no, no, she emphatically shook her head. Last shot – Tedeschi (German)? Ja, ja, Ich spreche Deutsch, the other woman replied. Ich bin eine Polander (yes, I speak German; I’m from Poland). So while Abbey and the one woman spoke in Italian, the other and I did in German. The directions were perfect; we found the hotel, about 10 minutes from the Duomo.
We unpacked and immediately headed to the Duomo to climb the Dome for some pictures. Kath almost made it to the top, so Abbey took her camera to get her pictures with it. The late afternoon was clear, and the sun was setting, turning the clouds a deep orange against the blue-dark sky. Florence at sunset!
After climbing down, we met Kath and headed to find pizzeria for dinner. Then back for an early night to prepare for the big day tomorrow.
21st of February – Emma’s birthday. An all-day celebration, no doubt.
Monday, February 23, 2009
Kathy Visits!
Last Friday (ooo, Friday the 13th!), Abbey, Emma, and I drove to the train station to pick up Kathy who managed just fine all the connections I gave her!! Tired but full of gab, she was relieved to see us, especially as we were late in getting to the station. We took her grocery shopping -- always an interesting experience here -- and the Sunday market in Crespano. Since it was a beautiful sunny day, Mt. Grappa seemed a likely destination. However, the road about three-quarters of the way up was closed with snow. Still we saw close-up some paragliders take off. Fascinating.
Monday we headed toward Verona. After all the rain and cool temperatures, the sunny days of 50 degrees were welcomed. After checking into the hotel, we had lunch on Piazza Bra and then explored the Roman amphitheather which is almost entirely intact. Built around 300 AD, it can seat 22,000 (compared to Rome's 40,000+). Today it hosts outdoor operas and plays during warm months as it has unbelievable acoustics. The view on the top row of seats highlights the beauty of Verona with the snow-capped mountains near Lake Garda in the background.
After enjoying some window shopping along Via Mazzini, we bought some souvenirs at the market in Piazza Erbe and visited the casa degli Juliette -- Juliet's house, as in Juliet Capulet, of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, which he set in Verona. Although there is no evidence that a Juliet lived here and that even a Juliet existed, one of Verona's most visited sites is this one. The house has an impressive collection of various texts of the play and paintings and prints depicting scenes from the play, most frequently the young lovers' deaths. Also on display are Juliet's dress and Romeo's partywear for the ball. Dinner that night on the Piazza Bra.
Tuesday was again warm and sunny as we explored the Castelvecchio built in 1298 by the Scaligera or Scala family, who ruled Verona until Venice conquored it. Located on the bank of the Adige River, it is imposing with crenellated walls in dark red brick. Inside are various paintings of the family members, statues -- including a huge one of Cangrande II atop his horse -- and other artifacts. A bridge across the river connects the castle to the outer part of town. We walked across, enjoying the sun and then a tasty lunch outside on Piazza Erbe.
Since Kathy said we could do only two churches (!), we visited Sant'Anastasia and the Duomo. Both are interesting architecturally. The Duomo is a mix of Gothic and Roman; Sant'Anastasia is Romanesque on the outside and Gothic inside; it dates from the 13th century. We also toured the ancient Roman theater or teatro, from the time of Augustus. It was "discovered" in the early 1900's.
Verona is a small city, with a very compact center, yet its importance in history is significant. Once a Roman outpost and crossroad for trade, it witnessed conflict with the Guelph and Ghibelline battles in the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. The Scaligeri (aka Scala) family with its icons of dogs and ladders (scala means ladder in Italian) ruled for many years. Winged lions, the symbol of Venice, also abound in the city, reflecting its Venetian control. Then Napolean came (where didn't he go?) and thankfully left; later Austria and then facism with WWII. Finally post-war peace in 1945. As an FYI, Albany, New York is a sister sister city to Verona!
Some wine, hot chocolate, and more food for Emma at an Enoteca, then off to the train station and home!
Monday we headed toward Verona. After all the rain and cool temperatures, the sunny days of 50 degrees were welcomed. After checking into the hotel, we had lunch on Piazza Bra and then explored the Roman amphitheather which is almost entirely intact. Built around 300 AD, it can seat 22,000 (compared to Rome's 40,000+). Today it hosts outdoor operas and plays during warm months as it has unbelievable acoustics. The view on the top row of seats highlights the beauty of Verona with the snow-capped mountains near Lake Garda in the background.
After enjoying some window shopping along Via Mazzini, we bought some souvenirs at the market in Piazza Erbe and visited the casa degli Juliette -- Juliet's house, as in Juliet Capulet, of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, which he set in Verona. Although there is no evidence that a Juliet lived here and that even a Juliet existed, one of Verona's most visited sites is this one. The house has an impressive collection of various texts of the play and paintings and prints depicting scenes from the play, most frequently the young lovers' deaths. Also on display are Juliet's dress and Romeo's partywear for the ball. Dinner that night on the Piazza Bra.
Tuesday was again warm and sunny as we explored the Castelvecchio built in 1298 by the Scaligera or Scala family, who ruled Verona until Venice conquored it. Located on the bank of the Adige River, it is imposing with crenellated walls in dark red brick. Inside are various paintings of the family members, statues -- including a huge one of Cangrande II atop his horse -- and other artifacts. A bridge across the river connects the castle to the outer part of town. We walked across, enjoying the sun and then a tasty lunch outside on Piazza Erbe.
Since Kathy said we could do only two churches (!), we visited Sant'Anastasia and the Duomo. Both are interesting architecturally. The Duomo is a mix of Gothic and Roman; Sant'Anastasia is Romanesque on the outside and Gothic inside; it dates from the 13th century. We also toured the ancient Roman theater or teatro, from the time of Augustus. It was "discovered" in the early 1900's.
Verona is a small city, with a very compact center, yet its importance in history is significant. Once a Roman outpost and crossroad for trade, it witnessed conflict with the Guelph and Ghibelline battles in the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. The Scaligeri (aka Scala) family with its icons of dogs and ladders (scala means ladder in Italian) ruled for many years. Winged lions, the symbol of Venice, also abound in the city, reflecting its Venetian control. Then Napolean came (where didn't he go?) and thankfully left; later Austria and then facism with WWII. Finally post-war peace in 1945. As an FYI, Albany, New York is a sister sister city to Verona!
Some wine, hot chocolate, and more food for Emma at an Enoteca, then off to the train station and home!
Friday, February 6, 2009
Semester Weeks 1 & 2, 19-31 January: Classes Begin & Friends Visit
On Monday, as we faculty finished a seminar on the Kepner-Tregoe philosophy of neuroscience, the buses from Bassano train station began rolling in, the first at 11:00 am. For me, it seemed such a short time ago that the Fall 08 students arrived. The day was cold – and once again – rainy. RI’s, staff, and faculty were on hand to facilitate the process of helping people get settled. Some students were operating on very little, if any, sleep, depending on where they came from and the connections. Bags upon bags piled up under the overhang of the Pio building where students checked in, received their information packet, their phone (if they ordered one), and grab some fruit and sandwich from the Tabacchi. After finding their rooms, they came to the Simpson Room to pick up books. All in all – three buses and 141 students from schools all over the US: from New York to California, Minnesota to Texas, and nearly every state in between, the largest contingency from University of Kansas.
Students had an orientation the first several nights after dinner, and we began classes on Tuesday. Nothing like refusing to let jet lag take over!! Everyone, well nearly everyone, was ready. Professors and students introduced themselves in classes, and semester course material reviewed. So much to process academically and culturally in those days. For many of us, the week’s highlight was Al Sole opening on Wednesday after being closed for more than a week (vacation time). Pizza – REAL pizza – does much to revitalize the body and soul after a hectic day. Al Sole will quickly become the students’ favorite after tiring of cafeteria menus!!
By Friday, after 4 days of classes, students were preparing for weekend travel, the LIFE program, or simply catching up on much needed sleep. Professors were no different, and the girls and I were getting ready for a visit from friends. Friday night we picked up Judy, Maddy, and Jojo, from the Castelfranco train station. If you remember, they had been our neighbors the fall semester as Judy’s husband, Scott, taught the journalism courses. He was finishing up some work in Lugano, Switzerland, where they had been staying since leaving PDG. Emma and Jojo had a ball; Maddy and Abbey played soccer and practiced Italian; Judy and I enjoyed adult company and wine! We had a hysterical time playing charades. They are leaving for Oregon later in the week; as I took them back to the train station, the girls cried, not wanting to leave Paderno.
Campus seemed quiet this week without classes, but I did get a lot done! The weekend brought the first of several LIFE sessions. LIFE is an intensive leadership program that proves to be life-altering for those who participate in it. It’s not about “changing” who you are, but about “finding” who you are – as an individual, a group member, and a leader. It is one of the many aspects that make the CIMBA program one of the best academic and cultural study abroad experience students could have. Abbey, who had gone through LIFE last semester, is now an assistant trainer. After the second session, the trainers and assistant trainers had dinner, and Cristina (CIMBA director) invited Emma and me to come as well. I'll have to let Emma describe her reaction to visiting Al Ringleb's house (Al is, basically, CIMBA) and to see his wine cellar!!
Students had an orientation the first several nights after dinner, and we began classes on Tuesday. Nothing like refusing to let jet lag take over!! Everyone, well nearly everyone, was ready. Professors and students introduced themselves in classes, and semester course material reviewed. So much to process academically and culturally in those days. For many of us, the week’s highlight was Al Sole opening on Wednesday after being closed for more than a week (vacation time). Pizza – REAL pizza – does much to revitalize the body and soul after a hectic day. Al Sole will quickly become the students’ favorite after tiring of cafeteria menus!!
By Friday, after 4 days of classes, students were preparing for weekend travel, the LIFE program, or simply catching up on much needed sleep. Professors were no different, and the girls and I were getting ready for a visit from friends. Friday night we picked up Judy, Maddy, and Jojo, from the Castelfranco train station. If you remember, they had been our neighbors the fall semester as Judy’s husband, Scott, taught the journalism courses. He was finishing up some work in Lugano, Switzerland, where they had been staying since leaving PDG. Emma and Jojo had a ball; Maddy and Abbey played soccer and practiced Italian; Judy and I enjoyed adult company and wine! We had a hysterical time playing charades. They are leaving for Oregon later in the week; as I took them back to the train station, the girls cried, not wanting to leave Paderno.
Campus seemed quiet this week without classes, but I did get a lot done! The weekend brought the first of several LIFE sessions. LIFE is an intensive leadership program that proves to be life-altering for those who participate in it. It’s not about “changing” who you are, but about “finding” who you are – as an individual, a group member, and a leader. It is one of the many aspects that make the CIMBA program one of the best academic and cultural study abroad experience students could have. Abbey, who had gone through LIFE last semester, is now an assistant trainer. After the second session, the trainers and assistant trainers had dinner, and Cristina (CIMBA director) invited Emma and me to come as well. I'll have to let Emma describe her reaction to visiting Al Ringleb's house (Al is, basically, CIMBA) and to see his wine cellar!!
12-18 January: Preparing for CIMBA Spring 2009
The spring semester faculty arrived this week for orientation and to finish the last-minute prepping for courses. Some of us are returning, including Dominic Standish, Fran Lloyd, Silvia De Nardi, and Michela Marin, all of whom live here in the Veneto and teach every semester; Roger Chope (Oregon), here most spring semesters; Ted Fredrickson (Kansas), returning after 7 years; and myself. New to CIMBA are Ron Christner (Loyola - New Orleans), Les Fould (New Zealand by way of Brazil), Marlys Mason (Oklahoma State) and Chris and Carol Knapp (Univ. of Oklahoma). Also on hand were our resident interns: Jay Werner, Jessica Carrese, Kelly Heesch, Nick Littell, Carla Guarin, and Christina Rood. They too had a busy week checking out the area and getting ready for all the questions the other students would have when they arrived. One day they had a “scavenger hunt” – how to find bus tickets, how to get to Bassano, and more importantly, how to get back!!
The weather was not cooperative this week: chilly and rainy on most days. At least it encouraged us to get our work finished! CIMBA treated the faculty and staff to a wonderful welcome dinner at Besse Ristorante just outside Castelcucco, a neighboring town of Paderno. Naturally the food was plentiful and delicious, and the local wine complemented the dishes of risotto, pasta, meat, and vegetables. The cream pastry dessert was extraordinary!
Sunday, as always, was market day in Crespano. Abbey, Emma, and I walked up for our weekly supply of fruits, cheese, and vegetables – as well as to check out the many other items that range from sweaters and socks to chair cushions and chain saws! Our friendly cheeseman waved hello and sliced us some of the Asiago that we love!
The weather was not cooperative this week: chilly and rainy on most days. At least it encouraged us to get our work finished! CIMBA treated the faculty and staff to a wonderful welcome dinner at Besse Ristorante just outside Castelcucco, a neighboring town of Paderno. Naturally the food was plentiful and delicious, and the local wine complemented the dishes of risotto, pasta, meat, and vegetables. The cream pastry dessert was extraordinary!
Sunday, as always, was market day in Crespano. Abbey, Emma, and I walked up for our weekly supply of fruits, cheese, and vegetables – as well as to check out the many other items that range from sweaters and socks to chair cushions and chain saws! Our friendly cheeseman waved hello and sliced us some of the Asiago that we love!
Tale of Three Cities – Part 3 of 3: Napoli, the Medieval city.
And another late post from our southern Italy trip to Rome, Naples, and Pompeii -- the third (and last!) installment!
I had read enough about Naples to know that it was a rather different city than the others we have visited. Although home to gelato and pizza, it is also a site of organized crime, ineffective city government, and 30% unemployment – not pleasing to either residents or tourists. Still, I wasn’t quite prepared for what we saw exiting the rather shabby train station. A different face of Italy, without a doubt.
Wednesday, 12 November:
Battling traffic in the piazza (usually traffic free), racing across a street to avoid being run over (no pedestrian crossways), and unable to find any street signs (where were they anyway?), I was about ready to turn around and catch the first train back to Rome. I asked a waitress where our hotel’s street was; she wasn’t sure (not a good sign, I thought). However, a nice elderly man came out of the café and directed us down only one block and there indeed was a sign for Hotel Nuovo Rebecchino. The hotel is very clean and pleasant; while the maid finished with the room (we were a bit early), the staff served us some tea. Our room was wonderful, very comfortable – and included a Jacuzzi, much appreciated after walking all over Rome.
Since the skies had clouded over, we decided to take in the Archeological Museum that afternoon, hoping for clearer weather another day for Pompeii. We walked to the Museum, and the sights along the way were a sharp contrast to everywhere else we had been. Trash, piled high on streets and sidewalks, was an efficient depository for those who had had too much to drink; traffic, loud and angry, ignored the few signal lights as drivers found sidewalks efficient ways around congestion; tramps and other “interesting” working people casually mingled with the crowds.
The Museum itself is excellent, although it is not kept up as it should be for its important collections. Much of what had been excavated from Pompeii and Herculaneum is here: frescoes, dinnerware and pottery, tools, even some fabric remnants. The rain persisted on the way back. Not wanting to walk far for dinner, we asked the hotel for a recommendation. A block and a half away was a wonderful restaurant with lots of fish dishes. Naples is a port city after all. Tim was in his glory, and the maitre d’ clearly enjoyed his work. We met an American couple there; they come to Italy frequently to visit her relatives.
Heading back to the hotel, we saw a bit of Napoli’s night life: a man/woman (?) advertising his/her (?) wares enjoying the whistles from passing cars; a pick-up further down; some sort of goods & monetary exchange in an alley. It felt good to be back in the hotel.
Thursday, 13 November:
We woke to more rain, and after an excellent hotel breakfast, we opted to read and catch up on e-mail in our room. By early afternoon, the skies had cleared, and we visited some of the churches, including the Duomo and Cappella Saneverno for Guiseppe Sammartino’s moving sculpture, The Veiled Christ. San Gennaro, Naples’ Duomo, was built at the end of the 13th century. Its museum features much silver, one of the valuable metals in the area. According to the legend, the blood of San Gennaro (Naples’ patron saint) is contained in phials there and becomes liquid 3 days of the year; should is not, the city will have bad luck. I thought about all I had seen there and guessed that probably the blood had not liquified for some time! Later, our hotel directed to us another close-by restaurant, and again, we had a good meal. The same man/woman (?) was out as we made our way back, evidently unfazed by the pouring rain. Later a thunderstorm rolled in; we were quite happy to be cozy in our room.
Friday, 14 November:
After breakfast, we took the local train to Pompeii, passing in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius on the way. The site of what had been an extremely advanced and progressive city was phenomenal. Emma thought the ruins a wonderful maze; Abbey went crazy with the camera; Tim & I could only imagine what terror those people experienced with the 79 AD eruption. Ash and smoke killed most of the estimated 2000 victims; Pliny the Elder, a Roman writer, witnessed the event with his nephew, Pliny the Younger; unfortunately the Elder ventured too close and suffocated. Careful excavation revealed much about life there: a prosperous civilization with some wealthy villas and a comfortable working class. Evidently much of Pompeii has yet to excavated. Although it was discovered in the late 1500's, archeologists really worked on it beginning in 1748. (Wasn’t that when Samuel Richardson published Pamela that prompted Henry Fielding’s satires, Shamela and Joseph Andrews? No connection; just a random insertion to see if anyone is paying attention!)
A storm rolled in, after which the most beautiful double rainbow I have ever seen appeared. With more clouds in the distance, we wisely decided not to venture down to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, now enveloped in fog. We trained back to our hotel, had dinner where we did the first night there, and packed for our 8:30 train back to Paderno the next day.
Naples had been a good experience. More like West Philadelphia with its dirt, graffiti, and atmosphere than like its sister Italian cities, Naples reminded us that beauty of a once great Medieval city can succumb to human greed and short-sightedness. It is a different face of Italy, a sad one, I suspect.
I had read enough about Naples to know that it was a rather different city than the others we have visited. Although home to gelato and pizza, it is also a site of organized crime, ineffective city government, and 30% unemployment – not pleasing to either residents or tourists. Still, I wasn’t quite prepared for what we saw exiting the rather shabby train station. A different face of Italy, without a doubt.
Wednesday, 12 November:
Battling traffic in the piazza (usually traffic free), racing across a street to avoid being run over (no pedestrian crossways), and unable to find any street signs (where were they anyway?), I was about ready to turn around and catch the first train back to Rome. I asked a waitress where our hotel’s street was; she wasn’t sure (not a good sign, I thought). However, a nice elderly man came out of the café and directed us down only one block and there indeed was a sign for Hotel Nuovo Rebecchino. The hotel is very clean and pleasant; while the maid finished with the room (we were a bit early), the staff served us some tea. Our room was wonderful, very comfortable – and included a Jacuzzi, much appreciated after walking all over Rome.
Since the skies had clouded over, we decided to take in the Archeological Museum that afternoon, hoping for clearer weather another day for Pompeii. We walked to the Museum, and the sights along the way were a sharp contrast to everywhere else we had been. Trash, piled high on streets and sidewalks, was an efficient depository for those who had had too much to drink; traffic, loud and angry, ignored the few signal lights as drivers found sidewalks efficient ways around congestion; tramps and other “interesting” working people casually mingled with the crowds.
The Museum itself is excellent, although it is not kept up as it should be for its important collections. Much of what had been excavated from Pompeii and Herculaneum is here: frescoes, dinnerware and pottery, tools, even some fabric remnants. The rain persisted on the way back. Not wanting to walk far for dinner, we asked the hotel for a recommendation. A block and a half away was a wonderful restaurant with lots of fish dishes. Naples is a port city after all. Tim was in his glory, and the maitre d’ clearly enjoyed his work. We met an American couple there; they come to Italy frequently to visit her relatives.
Heading back to the hotel, we saw a bit of Napoli’s night life: a man/woman (?) advertising his/her (?) wares enjoying the whistles from passing cars; a pick-up further down; some sort of goods & monetary exchange in an alley. It felt good to be back in the hotel.
Thursday, 13 November:
We woke to more rain, and after an excellent hotel breakfast, we opted to read and catch up on e-mail in our room. By early afternoon, the skies had cleared, and we visited some of the churches, including the Duomo and Cappella Saneverno for Guiseppe Sammartino’s moving sculpture, The Veiled Christ. San Gennaro, Naples’ Duomo, was built at the end of the 13th century. Its museum features much silver, one of the valuable metals in the area. According to the legend, the blood of San Gennaro (Naples’ patron saint) is contained in phials there and becomes liquid 3 days of the year; should is not, the city will have bad luck. I thought about all I had seen there and guessed that probably the blood had not liquified for some time! Later, our hotel directed to us another close-by restaurant, and again, we had a good meal. The same man/woman (?) was out as we made our way back, evidently unfazed by the pouring rain. Later a thunderstorm rolled in; we were quite happy to be cozy in our room.
Friday, 14 November:
After breakfast, we took the local train to Pompeii, passing in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius on the way. The site of what had been an extremely advanced and progressive city was phenomenal. Emma thought the ruins a wonderful maze; Abbey went crazy with the camera; Tim & I could only imagine what terror those people experienced with the 79 AD eruption. Ash and smoke killed most of the estimated 2000 victims; Pliny the Elder, a Roman writer, witnessed the event with his nephew, Pliny the Younger; unfortunately the Elder ventured too close and suffocated. Careful excavation revealed much about life there: a prosperous civilization with some wealthy villas and a comfortable working class. Evidently much of Pompeii has yet to excavated. Although it was discovered in the late 1500's, archeologists really worked on it beginning in 1748. (Wasn’t that when Samuel Richardson published Pamela that prompted Henry Fielding’s satires, Shamela and Joseph Andrews? No connection; just a random insertion to see if anyone is paying attention!)
A storm rolled in, after which the most beautiful double rainbow I have ever seen appeared. With more clouds in the distance, we wisely decided not to venture down to Sorrento and the Amalfi Coast, now enveloped in fog. We trained back to our hotel, had dinner where we did the first night there, and packed for our 8:30 train back to Paderno the next day.
Naples had been a good experience. More like West Philadelphia with its dirt, graffiti, and atmosphere than like its sister Italian cities, Naples reminded us that beauty of a once great Medieval city can succumb to human greed and short-sightedness. It is a different face of Italy, a sad one, I suspect.
Tale of Three Cities – Part 2 of 3: Rome, the Ancient city.
Late, I know, but here is Part 2 of 3 for A Tale of Three Cities
Rome (Roma) transports us to the ancient past. Edgar Allan Poe penned the lines “the glory that was Greece, the grandeur that was Rome.” Rome was – and is – indeed grand. The capital of both Italy and the Lazio region, Rome’s past “grandeur” remains evident in its vibrant, energetic present. Someone calculated that to see all the sights of Rome would require at least year. We had barely 5 days, so decisions had to be made!
Saturday, 8 November. Our day began very early and not without incident(s). The week before our second travel week had been hectic with a lot of project conferences for me and test reviews for Tim and student activities for us both. Although downloading pictures and writing blog entries to be uploaded at a later time may seem inconsequential and simply fun work, I was frustrated that I was behind in posting and that the fun part was only in the writing and not at all in the technology of the posting process, especially with a server ill-equipped to deal with nearly 100 students online and downloading huge files of heaven-knows-what! (Yes, that is a long sentence à la Wiliam Faulkner, but it is grammatically correct!) Despite being packed the night before and Tim taking wet laundry to the campus dryers (no clothes dryer in the apartment), we still felt rushed, and I hadn’t quite planned out an itinerary as I had with Liguria and Florence that had helped maximize our time. Not only were we going to Rome, but to Naples as well, and this time we were going for pretty much the entire week with little front and end times.
Unable to sleep, I got up at 4 am, hoping to finish some work before leaving at 5:45 to catch the 7:06 train to Padua, where we would get the Eurostar to Rome. For some reason, we were actually early and with little traffic arrived at Castelfranco station a little after 6. Ah, I thought; we can get some coffee at the Bistro across from the station. As we hauled the bags out of the Fiat’s trunk in the parking lot, Abbey looked up and said, “Do we have to have our passports?” Hearts sinking, Tim, Emma, and I answered “YES.” (Hotels, you may remember, are required to record passport documentation for all non-nationals.) “YOU FORGOT YOUR PASSPORT???” all three of us yelled to her. Okay, situation analysis required; cool heads needed; deep breaths. Emma and I would take all the luggage to the station; Tim and Abbey would drive, or rather speed, back to Paderno. It was a 30-minute drive by normal American standards; they would have to do it by Italian standards to return for the 7:06. As they sped off, I realized that the international drivers licenses were in my purse as we didn’t want to leave them in the car’s glove compartment. Tim didn’t have his license. Normale.
Thanking whoever invented luggage on wheels, Emma and I went to the train station with 4 suitcases, hoping against hope that the 7:06 regional to Padua would be late. Good chance it would be, we thought, since Trenitalia has about a 40% on-time record. As we sat in the warm waiting room, Emma decided she wanted to frank the tickets. The reserved Eurostar doesn’t require the machine franking, but the regionals do, which is what the ticket from Castelfranco to Padua was. I go for the tickets in my purse – no tickets. Can’t be, I thought; I put them in the night before with the passports. Then it occurred to me: I had taken them out to write down the train numbers, times, car and seat assignments for everyone in case we should get separated for any reason. While doing so, I had been sidetracked by who knows what. Great. I had the ticket information I wrote out but not the tickets. They were on the kitchen table.
Thankfully Tim had handed me his phone since Abbey carries mine. I dialed her in a panic. “Abbey, l think I left the tickets on the table; look for them when you go in for the passport.” “Okay; we’re almost there. Dad’s driving like an Italian.” Not what I wanted to hear, though in checking my watch, I realize that we might have a chance to make the train as a result. Emma is pacing, watching the electronic schedule. No sign that the train is running behind. At 6:35, Abbey calls: “We got them, tickets and passport. We’re on our way back.” Okay, we might pull this off.
6:50 I call Abbey. “Where are you?” “Just past the MacDonald’s by Iper,” about 10 minutes away. If they didn’t hit traffic and timed the lights well . . . . Emma and I, in a burst of optimism, lugged the bags to the track – thankfully our train came in on binario uno (track 1). 6:55, no sign of them and no ritardo light next to our train number. 6:59, I see Abbey running breathlessly into the waiting room; a minute later, Tim. At 7:03, the regional from Venice to Padua pulls in, right on time! Thankfully, we settle in our seats, hearts pounding. I looked at Abbey; she looked at me. We burst out laughing. “Well, I saved you,” I said, “and you saved me.” Emma just shook her head, probably glad that for once she had nothing to do with a potential disaster. Tim, however, was energized: he had experienced the Italian bloodsport of driving, as Frances Mayes termed it in her memoir. “I could that again,” he said, “Wow!”
Disembarking in Padua with a comfortable 15 minutes between trains, we boarded the crowded Eurostar, thankful for reserved seats for the 4-hour ride to Rome. Departure time of 8:00 came and went. Something was wrong with the engine, and the conductors were busy back and forth on the cars. By 8:35, we were finally on our way, noting that had we missed the 7:06 regional, the 7:20 would have gotten us to Padua in time to catch the Rome Eurostar! Of course, had that been the case, the Eurostar would not have been 25 minutes late. Normale.
The scenery through Tuscany and Lazio is beautiful, especially with brilliant sunshine. One of the perks of train travel is the ability to enjoy the views. Against a deep azure sky, the rounded green Tuscan hills are marked contrast to the imposing Dolomites and Alps of northern Italy. Fields of harvested corn, soybeans, and hay reminded us of the longer growing season here. Farms and vineyards nestle between small towns, though olive groves and orchards were now bare of fruit in early November. Tall, narrow evergreens create borders and wind barriers, mixing with chestnut and walnut trees. I kept thinking how much Jonathan would enjoy seeing this and comparing/contrasting it to the farms of Northeastern Pennsylvania.
Approaching Rome, the sky grew cloudy, then dark. Rain. Ugh, I thought. Rome is not a city to experience in the rain; thank goodness we brought umbrellas. An hour after schedule, we arrive at Rome Termini train station – 1:00 in the afternoon. And what a surprise – the station is a mall!! Well-designed, convenient, and clean, it has 3 levels of stores ranging from souvenir shops to really good food to bookstores and apparel. Following the directions from the hotel’s website, we easily find Hotel Serendipity, about 5 blocks from the station, down Via Marghera to Via Castro Pretorio. It’s in a beautiful old palazzo (palace), bigger than the one we had in Florence. (Already Abbey is wondering about mosquitoes.) At the gate to the courtyard, we see the buzzer to ring the hotel; the gate opens, and we make our way to the hotel entrance just off a beautiful garden with rain-drenched trees.
Our room is smaller than the others in Rapallo and Florence, but it is clean and comfortable with a good view of the front patio and gate. We unpack a bit for our 5-day stay and notice that the rain has stopped and the sun is once again shining. Wanting to explore the city a bit, we get the Roma Pass which, for three days, gives one free entrance to two museums (excepting the Vatican), reduced fees after the first two museums, and unlimited bus/metro transportation. We decide to use them beginning Sunday to carry us through to Tuesday as we were leaving Wednesday for Siena. Emma wanted to see the Spanish Steps, 2 metro stops from the Termini train station; that settled the itinerary for Day 1 in Roma.
So, off we went. Not quite as clean as the one in Paris, the Roman metro is efficient and prompt. Only real downside are the pickpockets. Crime in Italy is very low, as it is in all of Europe; however, petty pickpocketing is often a problem for unsuspecting tourists. One popular ruse is the woman with baby and child. Having reminded the girls to keep purses in front of them on the crowded metro, I noticed a woman moving throughout the car, holding a baby with a child in tow. Hmmmm, I thought. One does not walk around a speeding metro; one sits or holds on to the poles. She approached an older woman gabbing with a friend, her purse dangling. A man nearby taps the gabbing woman on the shoulder and nods to the pickpocket. Thanking him, she pulls her purse to her. I could have sworn I saw a look of disappointment in the pickpocket’s face; she exits quickly at the next stop. We have one more to go.
At Piazza di Spagna, we get off the metro and find ourselves facing the fountain and to our left, the famous Spanish Steps. No spring azaleas at this time of year, but the Spanish Steps still draws tourists and locals alike. Rome is full of people. There is never an off-season for this city. I spied the Keats-Shelley House, having forgotten at the time it was here. We visited this very small museum which has a large collection of first editions donated by people from all over the world. Keats died here, having come to Italy in hopes the warm mild climate would stave off the tuberculosis which he contracted from caring for his brother. It didn’t of course, in the days before antibiotics. Percy Shelley, angry at the bad reviews of Keats’ poetry, claimed that Keats died from them. Rome would have bad memories for Mary Shelley; not only did Keats die there, but her 3-year old son William did as well. Both were buried in the Protestant cemetery, along with Percy, who drowned later in the Gulf of Spezia on his way to Livorno, off the Ligurian coast. To this day, I wonder how she maintained her sanity with the deaths of 3 children, her husband, and friends, Keats and Byron.
After the museum and a pleasant conversation with the Italian-American attendant (born in Boston to American mother and Italian father), we climbed the Spanish Steps for a twilight view of Rome. Above St. Peter’s Dome in the distance, thousands of sparrows and starlings flew in patterned formations, looking like a funnel cloud one instant and an approaching thunderstorm front the next. It was a choreographed dance with moves synchronized from second to second. We stood amazed. A couple of weeks later, I learned from a report on the BBC that the migrating birds to Rome were in record numbers this year, to the extent that city officials began playing sounds of starlings in distress to discourage some of the birds from settling there. Bird poop was getting a bit annoying to some residents who carried open umbrellas on sunny days in some areas of the city!
Back to the hotel, we cleaned up and decided to eat close to home. Trattoria Gemma all Lupa, on Via Marghera, looked good and was! Our waiter, who answered our paltry Italian with good English, was not Italian himself, but Albanian. He was very nice and very apologetic for delivering Emma her Coca-Cola late and so didn’t charge us for it. We had a wonderful meal at very affordable prices, much more reasonable than Florence actually. After a shaky start that morning, we finished the day on a high note and enjoyed a good night’s sleep.
Sunday, 9 November. Sunny morning was cool at first but quickly became sun-warmed. Breakfast at Bar Jolly, compliments of the hotel. By the way, “bar” in Italy is not the same as a “bar” in the States; it’s a quick place to grab a morning espresso, roll, sandwich, and an afternoon glass of wine or beer. With maps and Roma passes in hand, we take the metro to the Ancient Centre to see the Colosseum, Palantine Hill, and the Forum. A 5-minute metro ride later, we are there. If Emma was the open-mouthed and silent one at Florence’s Duomo, it was I at the initial sight of the Colosseum. Looking at the map as we exited from the metro, I didn’t look up until right in front of this incredible ancient structure. Last – and only – time I had seen it had been at night, 20 years ago, in a bus with Widener merchandising students – a drive-by view at my request as we were returning from a dinner out on our last night in Rome.
Time seems to have stood still here in this spot. The age of the Republic; the age of emperors. History comes alive with every step. I imagine chariots on the car-bustling road and shouts from spectators within the giant walls of the Colosseum. Plays at amphitheatres; Roman senators and wealthy women bustling along the streets. A bus horn brings me back, as does the sight of an anachronistic “gladiator” in full dress talking on a cell phone at the corner tabacchi as he sips an espresso.
“Would you like a tour in English,” speaks a very British voice. A nicely dressed young woman stood before us. “We have tours with English speaking guides.” I wasn’t sure at first as many people tout themselves as guides but aren’t. However, she was clearly British and licensed; the deal seemed good as I had not done all the homework I usually did before travel times. We could use our Roma pass as well. We walked with her to join a group of Americans, Australians, and Brits for a tour with an English-speaking Roman. As it turned out, we didn’t need to use our pass and got in at a lower rate anyway. The tour was brief (1 hour) but good; we learned much about the history, myths, and facts. Christians weren’t fed to the lions or killed here; they were killed in the Circus Maximus however. Nero didn’t fiddle in the Colosseum while Rome burned; it wasn’t even built until after his death. Nevertheless, the Colosseum saw its share of violence with gladiators fighting to the death with each other or wild animals that had been caged and starved below the arena’s floor. There were women gladiators described by Juvenal. Equal opportunity brutality. All rather gruesome for a civilization with a legacy of brilliant engineering, government policies, and art (though much was borrowed from the cultures the Romans conquered).
As part of the tour and to encourage business for the company, we had a freebie tour of Palantine Hill with a British guide. One of the seven hills of Rome, the Palantine is closest to the Colosseum and offers a wonderful view of the Forum remains below. Here is the beginning of the Appian Way with the Lebanese Umbrella trees; the palace ruins of Domitian, one of the early emperors; the expansions by the crazed Nero; the simple lodging of Augustus & Livia; the hut of Romulus, for whom Rome is named; the varied colored marble of the Domus Flavia villa. The Palantine is serene, a perfect spot of a picnic lunch and good book.
The Roman Forum below has a surprising amount of structure left. The 3 columns, decorative Corinthian style, of the Temple of Pollux and Castor are exquisite. The Temple was a tribute to the twins who led the Romans to victory over the Tarquins (Etruscans). The statues in the Vestal Virgins Courtyard are not intact, but enough remains to give one a sense of their original beauty. We later found a “then and now” book of Rome that has transparent overlays of the structures during the Empire over today’s ruins. The Forum was the center of Roman life. Here citizens managed the political and religious affairs of the city. The Temple that Emperor Antoninus built 141 AD for his wife Faustina is remarkably preserved; 6 marble columns of its portico or overhang remain. Trajan’s Column, honoring the defeat of what is now known as Romania, is inscribed with the battle description.
By early afternoon, we were ready for food. Passing the Victor Emmanual monument that Mussolini once made his headquarters, we meandered to Piazza Argentina and enjoyed an outdoor lunch in the afternoon sun. From there, we strolled to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi Fountain, which evoked scenes from Three Coins in the Fountain, the movie that actually made it famous. In 1762, Nicola Salvi scuplted Neptune and two figures of Triton with seahorses, one calm and the other wild (2 moods of the ocean). Legend has it that the fountain is named for Trivia, a girl from ancient Rome who led thirsty soldiers to a spring. It was dusk at that time, and the fountain lights glimmered, almost eerily, as if we were all underwater.
On our way back, we met Courtney Bibbs, a University of New Hampshire student studying in Spain. Her hostel was near our hotel, so we met for dinner: Trattoria Gemma all Lupa again, this time eating outside to enjoy the pleasant evening. Only disquieting note was the news announcement that trains, metros, and buses would be on strike tomorrow – the day we planned to see St. Peter’s and the Vatican Museum. Normale.
Monday, 10 November.
We forfeited breakfast at Bar Jolly (not a great loss) and opted for sandwiches to go from the Termini (train station). Since neither the buses nor metro were operating, we decided to walk to the St. Peter’s metro stop where we were to meet our Palantine Hill tour guide; he would then direct us to Susan, our Vatican guide. Susan is American, with an art history or cultural anthropology (or both?) degree; she has lived in Rome for 8 years. Despite the assurances from a couple in our tour on Sunday, the walk from Termini station to the Vatican was not a 40-minute one, even with walking as fast as we did. (We won’t deduct minutes – and minutes– for picture taking!) After making a few wrong turns, welcomed for a meander but not for a timed appointment, we hailed a taxi. The gum-chewing driver was pleasant, and she readily understood my Italian. Whisking us over the Tiber via Ponte St. Angelo, she got us to our meeting point in plenty of time for a coffee/tea before connecting with our tour.
Susan was exceptionally knowledgeable with a wonderfully dry sense of humor. The Vatican Museum is incredibly huge; like the Louvre (and many other museums), it is impossible to see everything in a day. The double helix staircase makes one dizzy. Susan had studied much about funerary art and took us to the ancient Greek and Roman area and explained the rites and traditions of sarcophagi. The sculpted tomb indicates the person’s social place, familial relationships, and work. We looked at several art works with both Christian and classical themes. One work that stood out was a painting of a table that, although painted from an angle, looked the same on either side. Spooky. A bit like the eyes that seem to follow you no matter where you are. Many sculptures such as Apollo Belvedere were in excellent condition, though many others were broken (or had their private areas fig-leaved when the Church went through an art-unappreciation mode).
The Sistine Chapel was very crowded; good weather had brought many people to Rome. I had been here 20 years ago, when half of Michelangelo’s ceiling had been restored. Then we could take pictures. Now, with restoration complete, we cannot. Postcards will have to do. Funny that I remember the Chapel larger than it seemed this time. Nevertheless, Michelangelo’s work cuts to the soul; indeed much of his own is in it.
Susan left us at St. Peter’s Square, and we visited the inside of the church – very beautiful. However, for some reason it did not have a “spiritual” aura (not sure how to describe it) that other churches have had, Notre-Dame or Florence’s Duomo, for example. Its dome was designed by Michelangelo, although he died before it was completed. The Square itself, designed by Bernini, is spectacular with its symmetry and columns. Scenes from Dan Brown’s novel, Angels and Demons, kept appearing, to the point that I gave in and bought a paperback copy to reread while in Rome! The Vatican is its own entity, technically a part of Italy only by virtue of its geography. It has its own post office, government, and bank (rich, rich, rich!!). People can make an appointment to “see” the Pope wave from his apartment; we declined.
After a good lunch in a café off the Square, we walked back to the hotel leisurely. Emma discovered a beaver swimming in the Tiber, and she and Tim went to the edge to check it out. Evidently beavers made an agreement with Roman authorities not to build dams in exchange for a protected environment.
That night we met one of our CIMBA students, Mike, who had connected with one of his friends from home there. We enjoyed a great meal at Antica Birreria Peroni, known for its beer, good food, and mixing of locals and tourists. Since Mike’s friend enjoys brewing like Tim, the guys had fun exchanging successes and, well, not successes! We walked back together – a pleasant evening to view the lights and vibrancy of Rome at night.
Tuesday, 11 November.
Our hotel made us an appointment for the Borghese Museum in the morning. The strike now over, we took a bus there, fortunately estimating rightly where to get off (signs not clearly marked). The gleaming white villa shines amid the green of the gardens and shade trees. The Museum features many works by Bernini, in addition to paintings by Raphael and Caraveggio. Rick Steves aptly describes it as “Classical meeting Renaissance”; in fact, Scipione Borghese wanted to promote Renaissance art by depicted its value with the Classical works. His collection was enormous. Especially powerful is Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne.
The girls opted for some downtime, so Tim and I quite willingly set off for lunch alone and to explore the city more. We visited the church Santa Maria Maggiore, built in 402 AD and still possessing mosaics from that time. The church had been a refuge for many as the Roman Empire was collapsing. After, we had a pleasant lunch not far and did some shopping on Via Nazionale. Tim found a new suitcase, much needed as his old one had broken in London: a Delsey that matched one of the pieces we had purchased in Strasbourg, France 2 years earlier. Our hotel manager looked startled as we came in with the suitcase; she inquired where we had been and laughed when Tim said we need a bigger bag for all the souvenirs. That night we visited the Pantheon inside, meeting some folks from Australia. We had dinner on nearby Via dei Pastini where each ristorante was hawking its menu. Tim opted for one that featured fish; Emma and I didn’t care as the pasta was always superb! The heaters enabled people to enjoy an al fresco meal in November. Ahhh – Roma e la bella citta!
Wednesday, 12 November. Train to Naples.
Packed and ready for the train to Napoli, we said a sad goodbye to Rome. It is indeed grand.
Rome (Roma) transports us to the ancient past. Edgar Allan Poe penned the lines “the glory that was Greece, the grandeur that was Rome.” Rome was – and is – indeed grand. The capital of both Italy and the Lazio region, Rome’s past “grandeur” remains evident in its vibrant, energetic present. Someone calculated that to see all the sights of Rome would require at least year. We had barely 5 days, so decisions had to be made!
Saturday, 8 November. Our day began very early and not without incident(s). The week before our second travel week had been hectic with a lot of project conferences for me and test reviews for Tim and student activities for us both. Although downloading pictures and writing blog entries to be uploaded at a later time may seem inconsequential and simply fun work, I was frustrated that I was behind in posting and that the fun part was only in the writing and not at all in the technology of the posting process, especially with a server ill-equipped to deal with nearly 100 students online and downloading huge files of heaven-knows-what! (Yes, that is a long sentence à la Wiliam Faulkner, but it is grammatically correct!) Despite being packed the night before and Tim taking wet laundry to the campus dryers (no clothes dryer in the apartment), we still felt rushed, and I hadn’t quite planned out an itinerary as I had with Liguria and Florence that had helped maximize our time. Not only were we going to Rome, but to Naples as well, and this time we were going for pretty much the entire week with little front and end times.
Unable to sleep, I got up at 4 am, hoping to finish some work before leaving at 5:45 to catch the 7:06 train to Padua, where we would get the Eurostar to Rome. For some reason, we were actually early and with little traffic arrived at Castelfranco station a little after 6. Ah, I thought; we can get some coffee at the Bistro across from the station. As we hauled the bags out of the Fiat’s trunk in the parking lot, Abbey looked up and said, “Do we have to have our passports?” Hearts sinking, Tim, Emma, and I answered “YES.” (Hotels, you may remember, are required to record passport documentation for all non-nationals.) “YOU FORGOT YOUR PASSPORT???” all three of us yelled to her. Okay, situation analysis required; cool heads needed; deep breaths. Emma and I would take all the luggage to the station; Tim and Abbey would drive, or rather speed, back to Paderno. It was a 30-minute drive by normal American standards; they would have to do it by Italian standards to return for the 7:06. As they sped off, I realized that the international drivers licenses were in my purse as we didn’t want to leave them in the car’s glove compartment. Tim didn’t have his license. Normale.
Thanking whoever invented luggage on wheels, Emma and I went to the train station with 4 suitcases, hoping against hope that the 7:06 regional to Padua would be late. Good chance it would be, we thought, since Trenitalia has about a 40% on-time record. As we sat in the warm waiting room, Emma decided she wanted to frank the tickets. The reserved Eurostar doesn’t require the machine franking, but the regionals do, which is what the ticket from Castelfranco to Padua was. I go for the tickets in my purse – no tickets. Can’t be, I thought; I put them in the night before with the passports. Then it occurred to me: I had taken them out to write down the train numbers, times, car and seat assignments for everyone in case we should get separated for any reason. While doing so, I had been sidetracked by who knows what. Great. I had the ticket information I wrote out but not the tickets. They were on the kitchen table.
Thankfully Tim had handed me his phone since Abbey carries mine. I dialed her in a panic. “Abbey, l think I left the tickets on the table; look for them when you go in for the passport.” “Okay; we’re almost there. Dad’s driving like an Italian.” Not what I wanted to hear, though in checking my watch, I realize that we might have a chance to make the train as a result. Emma is pacing, watching the electronic schedule. No sign that the train is running behind. At 6:35, Abbey calls: “We got them, tickets and passport. We’re on our way back.” Okay, we might pull this off.
6:50 I call Abbey. “Where are you?” “Just past the MacDonald’s by Iper,” about 10 minutes away. If they didn’t hit traffic and timed the lights well . . . . Emma and I, in a burst of optimism, lugged the bags to the track – thankfully our train came in on binario uno (track 1). 6:55, no sign of them and no ritardo light next to our train number. 6:59, I see Abbey running breathlessly into the waiting room; a minute later, Tim. At 7:03, the regional from Venice to Padua pulls in, right on time! Thankfully, we settle in our seats, hearts pounding. I looked at Abbey; she looked at me. We burst out laughing. “Well, I saved you,” I said, “and you saved me.” Emma just shook her head, probably glad that for once she had nothing to do with a potential disaster. Tim, however, was energized: he had experienced the Italian bloodsport of driving, as Frances Mayes termed it in her memoir. “I could that again,” he said, “Wow!”
Disembarking in Padua with a comfortable 15 minutes between trains, we boarded the crowded Eurostar, thankful for reserved seats for the 4-hour ride to Rome. Departure time of 8:00 came and went. Something was wrong with the engine, and the conductors were busy back and forth on the cars. By 8:35, we were finally on our way, noting that had we missed the 7:06 regional, the 7:20 would have gotten us to Padua in time to catch the Rome Eurostar! Of course, had that been the case, the Eurostar would not have been 25 minutes late. Normale.
The scenery through Tuscany and Lazio is beautiful, especially with brilliant sunshine. One of the perks of train travel is the ability to enjoy the views. Against a deep azure sky, the rounded green Tuscan hills are marked contrast to the imposing Dolomites and Alps of northern Italy. Fields of harvested corn, soybeans, and hay reminded us of the longer growing season here. Farms and vineyards nestle between small towns, though olive groves and orchards were now bare of fruit in early November. Tall, narrow evergreens create borders and wind barriers, mixing with chestnut and walnut trees. I kept thinking how much Jonathan would enjoy seeing this and comparing/contrasting it to the farms of Northeastern Pennsylvania.
Approaching Rome, the sky grew cloudy, then dark. Rain. Ugh, I thought. Rome is not a city to experience in the rain; thank goodness we brought umbrellas. An hour after schedule, we arrive at Rome Termini train station – 1:00 in the afternoon. And what a surprise – the station is a mall!! Well-designed, convenient, and clean, it has 3 levels of stores ranging from souvenir shops to really good food to bookstores and apparel. Following the directions from the hotel’s website, we easily find Hotel Serendipity, about 5 blocks from the station, down Via Marghera to Via Castro Pretorio. It’s in a beautiful old palazzo (palace), bigger than the one we had in Florence. (Already Abbey is wondering about mosquitoes.) At the gate to the courtyard, we see the buzzer to ring the hotel; the gate opens, and we make our way to the hotel entrance just off a beautiful garden with rain-drenched trees.
Our room is smaller than the others in Rapallo and Florence, but it is clean and comfortable with a good view of the front patio and gate. We unpack a bit for our 5-day stay and notice that the rain has stopped and the sun is once again shining. Wanting to explore the city a bit, we get the Roma Pass which, for three days, gives one free entrance to two museums (excepting the Vatican), reduced fees after the first two museums, and unlimited bus/metro transportation. We decide to use them beginning Sunday to carry us through to Tuesday as we were leaving Wednesday for Siena. Emma wanted to see the Spanish Steps, 2 metro stops from the Termini train station; that settled the itinerary for Day 1 in Roma.
So, off we went. Not quite as clean as the one in Paris, the Roman metro is efficient and prompt. Only real downside are the pickpockets. Crime in Italy is very low, as it is in all of Europe; however, petty pickpocketing is often a problem for unsuspecting tourists. One popular ruse is the woman with baby and child. Having reminded the girls to keep purses in front of them on the crowded metro, I noticed a woman moving throughout the car, holding a baby with a child in tow. Hmmmm, I thought. One does not walk around a speeding metro; one sits or holds on to the poles. She approached an older woman gabbing with a friend, her purse dangling. A man nearby taps the gabbing woman on the shoulder and nods to the pickpocket. Thanking him, she pulls her purse to her. I could have sworn I saw a look of disappointment in the pickpocket’s face; she exits quickly at the next stop. We have one more to go.
At Piazza di Spagna, we get off the metro and find ourselves facing the fountain and to our left, the famous Spanish Steps. No spring azaleas at this time of year, but the Spanish Steps still draws tourists and locals alike. Rome is full of people. There is never an off-season for this city. I spied the Keats-Shelley House, having forgotten at the time it was here. We visited this very small museum which has a large collection of first editions donated by people from all over the world. Keats died here, having come to Italy in hopes the warm mild climate would stave off the tuberculosis which he contracted from caring for his brother. It didn’t of course, in the days before antibiotics. Percy Shelley, angry at the bad reviews of Keats’ poetry, claimed that Keats died from them. Rome would have bad memories for Mary Shelley; not only did Keats die there, but her 3-year old son William did as well. Both were buried in the Protestant cemetery, along with Percy, who drowned later in the Gulf of Spezia on his way to Livorno, off the Ligurian coast. To this day, I wonder how she maintained her sanity with the deaths of 3 children, her husband, and friends, Keats and Byron.
After the museum and a pleasant conversation with the Italian-American attendant (born in Boston to American mother and Italian father), we climbed the Spanish Steps for a twilight view of Rome. Above St. Peter’s Dome in the distance, thousands of sparrows and starlings flew in patterned formations, looking like a funnel cloud one instant and an approaching thunderstorm front the next. It was a choreographed dance with moves synchronized from second to second. We stood amazed. A couple of weeks later, I learned from a report on the BBC that the migrating birds to Rome were in record numbers this year, to the extent that city officials began playing sounds of starlings in distress to discourage some of the birds from settling there. Bird poop was getting a bit annoying to some residents who carried open umbrellas on sunny days in some areas of the city!
Back to the hotel, we cleaned up and decided to eat close to home. Trattoria Gemma all Lupa, on Via Marghera, looked good and was! Our waiter, who answered our paltry Italian with good English, was not Italian himself, but Albanian. He was very nice and very apologetic for delivering Emma her Coca-Cola late and so didn’t charge us for it. We had a wonderful meal at very affordable prices, much more reasonable than Florence actually. After a shaky start that morning, we finished the day on a high note and enjoyed a good night’s sleep.
Sunday, 9 November. Sunny morning was cool at first but quickly became sun-warmed. Breakfast at Bar Jolly, compliments of the hotel. By the way, “bar” in Italy is not the same as a “bar” in the States; it’s a quick place to grab a morning espresso, roll, sandwich, and an afternoon glass of wine or beer. With maps and Roma passes in hand, we take the metro to the Ancient Centre to see the Colosseum, Palantine Hill, and the Forum. A 5-minute metro ride later, we are there. If Emma was the open-mouthed and silent one at Florence’s Duomo, it was I at the initial sight of the Colosseum. Looking at the map as we exited from the metro, I didn’t look up until right in front of this incredible ancient structure. Last – and only – time I had seen it had been at night, 20 years ago, in a bus with Widener merchandising students – a drive-by view at my request as we were returning from a dinner out on our last night in Rome.
Time seems to have stood still here in this spot. The age of the Republic; the age of emperors. History comes alive with every step. I imagine chariots on the car-bustling road and shouts from spectators within the giant walls of the Colosseum. Plays at amphitheatres; Roman senators and wealthy women bustling along the streets. A bus horn brings me back, as does the sight of an anachronistic “gladiator” in full dress talking on a cell phone at the corner tabacchi as he sips an espresso.
“Would you like a tour in English,” speaks a very British voice. A nicely dressed young woman stood before us. “We have tours with English speaking guides.” I wasn’t sure at first as many people tout themselves as guides but aren’t. However, she was clearly British and licensed; the deal seemed good as I had not done all the homework I usually did before travel times. We could use our Roma pass as well. We walked with her to join a group of Americans, Australians, and Brits for a tour with an English-speaking Roman. As it turned out, we didn’t need to use our pass and got in at a lower rate anyway. The tour was brief (1 hour) but good; we learned much about the history, myths, and facts. Christians weren’t fed to the lions or killed here; they were killed in the Circus Maximus however. Nero didn’t fiddle in the Colosseum while Rome burned; it wasn’t even built until after his death. Nevertheless, the Colosseum saw its share of violence with gladiators fighting to the death with each other or wild animals that had been caged and starved below the arena’s floor. There were women gladiators described by Juvenal. Equal opportunity brutality. All rather gruesome for a civilization with a legacy of brilliant engineering, government policies, and art (though much was borrowed from the cultures the Romans conquered).
As part of the tour and to encourage business for the company, we had a freebie tour of Palantine Hill with a British guide. One of the seven hills of Rome, the Palantine is closest to the Colosseum and offers a wonderful view of the Forum remains below. Here is the beginning of the Appian Way with the Lebanese Umbrella trees; the palace ruins of Domitian, one of the early emperors; the expansions by the crazed Nero; the simple lodging of Augustus & Livia; the hut of Romulus, for whom Rome is named; the varied colored marble of the Domus Flavia villa. The Palantine is serene, a perfect spot of a picnic lunch and good book.
The Roman Forum below has a surprising amount of structure left. The 3 columns, decorative Corinthian style, of the Temple of Pollux and Castor are exquisite. The Temple was a tribute to the twins who led the Romans to victory over the Tarquins (Etruscans). The statues in the Vestal Virgins Courtyard are not intact, but enough remains to give one a sense of their original beauty. We later found a “then and now” book of Rome that has transparent overlays of the structures during the Empire over today’s ruins. The Forum was the center of Roman life. Here citizens managed the political and religious affairs of the city. The Temple that Emperor Antoninus built 141 AD for his wife Faustina is remarkably preserved; 6 marble columns of its portico or overhang remain. Trajan’s Column, honoring the defeat of what is now known as Romania, is inscribed with the battle description.
By early afternoon, we were ready for food. Passing the Victor Emmanual monument that Mussolini once made his headquarters, we meandered to Piazza Argentina and enjoyed an outdoor lunch in the afternoon sun. From there, we strolled to the Pantheon and then to the Trevi Fountain, which evoked scenes from Three Coins in the Fountain, the movie that actually made it famous. In 1762, Nicola Salvi scuplted Neptune and two figures of Triton with seahorses, one calm and the other wild (2 moods of the ocean). Legend has it that the fountain is named for Trivia, a girl from ancient Rome who led thirsty soldiers to a spring. It was dusk at that time, and the fountain lights glimmered, almost eerily, as if we were all underwater.
On our way back, we met Courtney Bibbs, a University of New Hampshire student studying in Spain. Her hostel was near our hotel, so we met for dinner: Trattoria Gemma all Lupa again, this time eating outside to enjoy the pleasant evening. Only disquieting note was the news announcement that trains, metros, and buses would be on strike tomorrow – the day we planned to see St. Peter’s and the Vatican Museum. Normale.
Monday, 10 November.
We forfeited breakfast at Bar Jolly (not a great loss) and opted for sandwiches to go from the Termini (train station). Since neither the buses nor metro were operating, we decided to walk to the St. Peter’s metro stop where we were to meet our Palantine Hill tour guide; he would then direct us to Susan, our Vatican guide. Susan is American, with an art history or cultural anthropology (or both?) degree; she has lived in Rome for 8 years. Despite the assurances from a couple in our tour on Sunday, the walk from Termini station to the Vatican was not a 40-minute one, even with walking as fast as we did. (We won’t deduct minutes – and minutes– for picture taking!) After making a few wrong turns, welcomed for a meander but not for a timed appointment, we hailed a taxi. The gum-chewing driver was pleasant, and she readily understood my Italian. Whisking us over the Tiber via Ponte St. Angelo, she got us to our meeting point in plenty of time for a coffee/tea before connecting with our tour.
Susan was exceptionally knowledgeable with a wonderfully dry sense of humor. The Vatican Museum is incredibly huge; like the Louvre (and many other museums), it is impossible to see everything in a day. The double helix staircase makes one dizzy. Susan had studied much about funerary art and took us to the ancient Greek and Roman area and explained the rites and traditions of sarcophagi. The sculpted tomb indicates the person’s social place, familial relationships, and work. We looked at several art works with both Christian and classical themes. One work that stood out was a painting of a table that, although painted from an angle, looked the same on either side. Spooky. A bit like the eyes that seem to follow you no matter where you are. Many sculptures such as Apollo Belvedere were in excellent condition, though many others were broken (or had their private areas fig-leaved when the Church went through an art-unappreciation mode).
The Sistine Chapel was very crowded; good weather had brought many people to Rome. I had been here 20 years ago, when half of Michelangelo’s ceiling had been restored. Then we could take pictures. Now, with restoration complete, we cannot. Postcards will have to do. Funny that I remember the Chapel larger than it seemed this time. Nevertheless, Michelangelo’s work cuts to the soul; indeed much of his own is in it.
Susan left us at St. Peter’s Square, and we visited the inside of the church – very beautiful. However, for some reason it did not have a “spiritual” aura (not sure how to describe it) that other churches have had, Notre-Dame or Florence’s Duomo, for example. Its dome was designed by Michelangelo, although he died before it was completed. The Square itself, designed by Bernini, is spectacular with its symmetry and columns. Scenes from Dan Brown’s novel, Angels and Demons, kept appearing, to the point that I gave in and bought a paperback copy to reread while in Rome! The Vatican is its own entity, technically a part of Italy only by virtue of its geography. It has its own post office, government, and bank (rich, rich, rich!!). People can make an appointment to “see” the Pope wave from his apartment; we declined.
After a good lunch in a café off the Square, we walked back to the hotel leisurely. Emma discovered a beaver swimming in the Tiber, and she and Tim went to the edge to check it out. Evidently beavers made an agreement with Roman authorities not to build dams in exchange for a protected environment.
That night we met one of our CIMBA students, Mike, who had connected with one of his friends from home there. We enjoyed a great meal at Antica Birreria Peroni, known for its beer, good food, and mixing of locals and tourists. Since Mike’s friend enjoys brewing like Tim, the guys had fun exchanging successes and, well, not successes! We walked back together – a pleasant evening to view the lights and vibrancy of Rome at night.
Tuesday, 11 November.
Our hotel made us an appointment for the Borghese Museum in the morning. The strike now over, we took a bus there, fortunately estimating rightly where to get off (signs not clearly marked). The gleaming white villa shines amid the green of the gardens and shade trees. The Museum features many works by Bernini, in addition to paintings by Raphael and Caraveggio. Rick Steves aptly describes it as “Classical meeting Renaissance”; in fact, Scipione Borghese wanted to promote Renaissance art by depicted its value with the Classical works. His collection was enormous. Especially powerful is Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne.
The girls opted for some downtime, so Tim and I quite willingly set off for lunch alone and to explore the city more. We visited the church Santa Maria Maggiore, built in 402 AD and still possessing mosaics from that time. The church had been a refuge for many as the Roman Empire was collapsing. After, we had a pleasant lunch not far and did some shopping on Via Nazionale. Tim found a new suitcase, much needed as his old one had broken in London: a Delsey that matched one of the pieces we had purchased in Strasbourg, France 2 years earlier. Our hotel manager looked startled as we came in with the suitcase; she inquired where we had been and laughed when Tim said we need a bigger bag for all the souvenirs. That night we visited the Pantheon inside, meeting some folks from Australia. We had dinner on nearby Via dei Pastini where each ristorante was hawking its menu. Tim opted for one that featured fish; Emma and I didn’t care as the pasta was always superb! The heaters enabled people to enjoy an al fresco meal in November. Ahhh – Roma e la bella citta!
Wednesday, 12 November. Train to Naples.
Packed and ready for the train to Napoli, we said a sad goodbye to Rome. It is indeed grand.
Saturday, January 17, 2009
Frankfurt to Munich to Paderno
We have been back in Paderno for five days now, and it feels good to be "home" again and not living out of a suitcase. The girls and I left Tim on Thursday morning and headed to Munich. The weather continued to be cold, cold enough in fact to dampen some of the planned walking tours we had discussed. Nonetheless, we visited Marianplatz to watch the 11:00 Glockenspiel performance and spent most of the day in the incredible Deutsches Museum, which has a science and technology focus. Amazing exhibits and information.
Saturday we went to Salzburg, Austria -- saw the "do-re-mi" steps of The Sound of Music and other sites where the film was shot or real places for the Von Trapp family. The castle was magnificent with views of the countryside, though the somewhat misty weather didn't help visibility in some directions. Perhaps most impressive is the cathedral, the Dom, which is quite different from the Duomos of Italy. Light, sandstone-like interior highlighted the artwork; while ornate in design, the whitish colors blended together, creating a soft, almost subdued ambience.
Sunday was Dachau, the prototype concentration camp for Nazi Germany. Although it wasn't technically an extermination camp as Auschwitz was, many people, mostly German political dissidents, were killed or died here. The museum and tour are well-done; the brutality of the Nazis are effectively, passionately documented without needless sensationalism -- of course, the acts themselves need no help in that area.
The bitterly cold nights kept us in our pleasant hotel room in the evenings or having dinner at cozy Italian restaurant a block from the hotel. Abbey and Emma agree with me that German food is not on the top of our food favorites, though the hotel's breakfasts were delicious with many choices of breads, cheese, meats, fruit, yogurt, etc.
Monday, we left Munich for Trento and then changed trains to Bassano, where a taxi picked us up to take us back to Paderno. Cold apartment. Brrrr. So we headed to the Tabacchi for some milk, bread, etc., while the apartment warmed up. Walking in, we saw the owner and said "Buona sera." She returned "Buona sera" and then looked up at us. Breaking out in a smile, she shook our hands, "BUONA SERA," she said again with emphasis, welcoming us back. Unfortunately, the apartment didn't warm up; the boiler was not working right. It kicked in on Tuesday night but died on Wednesday night. Thankfully Anna called someone in, and by Friday, we were warm and cozy.
I have met the new professors, two of whom have been here before. It should be a good group. We had a welcome dinner last night which was a lot of fun after a full day of seminars. Market in Crespano is tomorrow, and then the students arrive on Monday. I begin teaching on Wednesday!! Full classes this term! Abbey will be helping with some of the programs here, and Emma is ecstatic that she has another friend her age, actually two: Cassie (12) and Alex (10), brother and sister of one of the professors. Well, I'm off to go back home, get warm, and work on some Italian!!! Ciao!
Saturday we went to Salzburg, Austria -- saw the "do-re-mi" steps of The Sound of Music and other sites where the film was shot or real places for the Von Trapp family. The castle was magnificent with views of the countryside, though the somewhat misty weather didn't help visibility in some directions. Perhaps most impressive is the cathedral, the Dom, which is quite different from the Duomos of Italy. Light, sandstone-like interior highlighted the artwork; while ornate in design, the whitish colors blended together, creating a soft, almost subdued ambience.
Sunday was Dachau, the prototype concentration camp for Nazi Germany. Although it wasn't technically an extermination camp as Auschwitz was, many people, mostly German political dissidents, were killed or died here. The museum and tour are well-done; the brutality of the Nazis are effectively, passionately documented without needless sensationalism -- of course, the acts themselves need no help in that area.
The bitterly cold nights kept us in our pleasant hotel room in the evenings or having dinner at cozy Italian restaurant a block from the hotel. Abbey and Emma agree with me that German food is not on the top of our food favorites, though the hotel's breakfasts were delicious with many choices of breads, cheese, meats, fruit, yogurt, etc.
Monday, we left Munich for Trento and then changed trains to Bassano, where a taxi picked us up to take us back to Paderno. Cold apartment. Brrrr. So we headed to the Tabacchi for some milk, bread, etc., while the apartment warmed up. Walking in, we saw the owner and said "Buona sera." She returned "Buona sera" and then looked up at us. Breaking out in a smile, she shook our hands, "BUONA SERA," she said again with emphasis, welcoming us back. Unfortunately, the apartment didn't warm up; the boiler was not working right. It kicked in on Tuesday night but died on Wednesday night. Thankfully Anna called someone in, and by Friday, we were warm and cozy.
I have met the new professors, two of whom have been here before. It should be a good group. We had a welcome dinner last night which was a lot of fun after a full day of seminars. Market in Crespano is tomorrow, and then the students arrive on Monday. I begin teaching on Wednesday!! Full classes this term! Abbey will be helping with some of the programs here, and Emma is ecstatic that she has another friend her age, actually two: Cassie (12) and Alex (10), brother and sister of one of the professors. Well, I'm off to go back home, get warm, and work on some Italian!!! Ciao!
Tuesday, January 6, 2009
From London to Frankfurt
Saturday, though continuing to be cold, was sunny with no wind. Tim and I explored a very different part of London -- Notting Hill, just on the other side of Kensington Gardens, just up Queen's Gate and our flat. The market on Portobello Road is like no other: antiques, junk, vegetables, pastries, mulled wine, teas, souvenirs, books, clothes of all sorts. And people. People from everywhere. We indulged in a cream-filled donut-type pastry that was coated with real chocolate (I don't want to even think about calories/mouthful!). On Notting Hill Gate Road, we stumbled across a hair salon and each had a much needed hair trim.
We sent Abbey and Katie to the market. After visiting the big cultural marvels, they needed to see this part of London as well. They returned hours later with good market buys, having had a great time, and then proceeded to get ready for an evening out at a dance club nearby. After enjoying an exciting soccer game between Southampton and Manchester United, Emma, Tim, and I returned to the local pub for a warming meal of chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, steak, and I forget what all else. That night, we again splurged on British tv, catching some excellent mysteries.
Sunday was the coldest day yet. Emma, Tim, and I went back to the Museum of Natural History for a wonderful exhibit on dinosaurs and another one on sea life. He and Emma then did the Science Museum, also near the flat. I took Katie and Abbey to Windsor to see the quaint town and huge castle which is the Queen's favorite. Unfortunately, we arrived too late to tour the castle inside but were able to get some wonderful pictures outside. Many lovely shops, including one with Scottish wool products, tempted us, and yes, we succumbed.
Monday morning came too soon. We hauled our baggage to Gloucester Underground station, a few blocks away, to catch the tube for Heathrow. (We had decided to fly to Frankfurt to save time and money). Getting off for Heathrow Terminal 2, we said good bye to Katie who would go on to Terminal 5 for her British Air flight back to the States. Lufthansa had easy check in and kindly turned an eye away from our overweight bags. Our 11:45 flight was delayed about 3 hours because of heavy snow in Frankfurt, so we ended up arriving around 5:00 pm, a little after the time that the train would have come!!! So much for saving time -- though we did save money! A taxi brought us quickly to the Heissischer Hof where the UD Winter Session students are booked. A 5-star hotel with impeccable, warm service and gigantic rooms, this hotel is incredible, and we are thankful to be here at the greatly reduced rate UD arranged for the study abroad program (otherwise, we wouldn't be here!!!!).
The students arrived this morning; Tim and the other professor are with them on a brief tour of the city. The girls and I are going to explore a bit on our own and then indulge in some pampering at the spa here. It's very cold here (as in all of Europe) with about a foot of snow on the ground. After some walking to the Romer Cathedral and the restored timber-framed houses of Romerberg (destroyed during WWII), we will probably welcome the spa's sauna!
We sent Abbey and Katie to the market. After visiting the big cultural marvels, they needed to see this part of London as well. They returned hours later with good market buys, having had a great time, and then proceeded to get ready for an evening out at a dance club nearby. After enjoying an exciting soccer game between Southampton and Manchester United, Emma, Tim, and I returned to the local pub for a warming meal of chicken pot pie, mashed potatoes, steak, and I forget what all else. That night, we again splurged on British tv, catching some excellent mysteries.
Sunday was the coldest day yet. Emma, Tim, and I went back to the Museum of Natural History for a wonderful exhibit on dinosaurs and another one on sea life. He and Emma then did the Science Museum, also near the flat. I took Katie and Abbey to Windsor to see the quaint town and huge castle which is the Queen's favorite. Unfortunately, we arrived too late to tour the castle inside but were able to get some wonderful pictures outside. Many lovely shops, including one with Scottish wool products, tempted us, and yes, we succumbed.
Monday morning came too soon. We hauled our baggage to Gloucester Underground station, a few blocks away, to catch the tube for Heathrow. (We had decided to fly to Frankfurt to save time and money). Getting off for Heathrow Terminal 2, we said good bye to Katie who would go on to Terminal 5 for her British Air flight back to the States. Lufthansa had easy check in and kindly turned an eye away from our overweight bags. Our 11:45 flight was delayed about 3 hours because of heavy snow in Frankfurt, so we ended up arriving around 5:00 pm, a little after the time that the train would have come!!! So much for saving time -- though we did save money! A taxi brought us quickly to the Heissischer Hof where the UD Winter Session students are booked. A 5-star hotel with impeccable, warm service and gigantic rooms, this hotel is incredible, and we are thankful to be here at the greatly reduced rate UD arranged for the study abroad program (otherwise, we wouldn't be here!!!!).
The students arrived this morning; Tim and the other professor are with them on a brief tour of the city. The girls and I are going to explore a bit on our own and then indulge in some pampering at the spa here. It's very cold here (as in all of Europe) with about a foot of snow on the ground. After some walking to the Romer Cathedral and the restored timber-framed houses of Romerberg (destroyed during WWII), we will probably welcome the spa's sauna!
Friday, January 2, 2009
HAPPY NEW YEAR'S from LONDON
We rang in the New Year with fireworks over the Thames and a celebratory parade the next day. London is wonderful -- but soooo cold.
We met Katie at St. Pancras station and easily found our lovely Queen's Gate flat, so thankful that it's a first floor flat after 4th floor apartments in Siena and Paris and the 4-level in Cortona! (No complaints, save for knee aches, as all places have been fantastic!). After settling in and refusing to let jet-lagged Katie sleep, we enjoyed some fish and chips at a local pub.
On Tuesday, we finally got everyone rolling by late morning and walked to the Natural History Museum on Cromwell Road, a few blocks from our flat. Emma enjoyed all the rooms, especially the gemstones. The Star of South Africa, and 57 carat diamond, was awesome. Earthquake simulation room reminded us of why we don't want to live in California, and the volcano exhibit reinforced much of what we had learned from our visit to Pompeii. We didn't get to the sea area of the museum so will have to go back tomorrow. Most of the museums are free in London, so return trips are do-able. Abbey was determined to visit Harrod's -- as were London's 6 million inhabitants! I will never complain about King of Prussia crowds again!!! Whew! We had a wonderful dinner that night in a small restaurant on Bromley Road.
New Year's Eve day, we did the Hop on-Hop off bus tour with tickets good for 48 hours. Headed straight to the British Museum, rivaled only by the Louvre for size and collections. Incredible ancient world artifacts. Tim and Emma then did Ripley's Believe It or Not, while Abbey, Katie, and I shopped along Oxford Street. Window-shopped to be truthful!! Wonderful New Year's Eve celebration; we watched Elton John on the "telly" and the fireworks too. Abbey and Katie took advantage of the free tube to head toward Westminster for close-up views.
New Year's Day seemed appropriate for Westminster Abbey. Very informative and entertaining audio tour. Saw the Poets Corner!!!! Had some pub fare at Sherlock Holmes Pub after walking to the London Eye but declining to wait in the very long line. Emma was thrilled -- she hailed the taxi to take us back.
Today was the Tower of London after the bus tour of central London. The Yeoman Warder (Beefeater) who was our guide infused British humor with history. His delivery made me think he could also be a stand-up comedian. Late lunch at a pub in the City (old city of London); Abbey and Katie did the Globe and St. Paul's.
We met Katie at St. Pancras station and easily found our lovely Queen's Gate flat, so thankful that it's a first floor flat after 4th floor apartments in Siena and Paris and the 4-level in Cortona! (No complaints, save for knee aches, as all places have been fantastic!). After settling in and refusing to let jet-lagged Katie sleep, we enjoyed some fish and chips at a local pub.
On Tuesday, we finally got everyone rolling by late morning and walked to the Natural History Museum on Cromwell Road, a few blocks from our flat. Emma enjoyed all the rooms, especially the gemstones. The Star of South Africa, and 57 carat diamond, was awesome. Earthquake simulation room reminded us of why we don't want to live in California, and the volcano exhibit reinforced much of what we had learned from our visit to Pompeii. We didn't get to the sea area of the museum so will have to go back tomorrow. Most of the museums are free in London, so return trips are do-able. Abbey was determined to visit Harrod's -- as were London's 6 million inhabitants! I will never complain about King of Prussia crowds again!!! Whew! We had a wonderful dinner that night in a small restaurant on Bromley Road.
New Year's Eve day, we did the Hop on-Hop off bus tour with tickets good for 48 hours. Headed straight to the British Museum, rivaled only by the Louvre for size and collections. Incredible ancient world artifacts. Tim and Emma then did Ripley's Believe It or Not, while Abbey, Katie, and I shopped along Oxford Street. Window-shopped to be truthful!! Wonderful New Year's Eve celebration; we watched Elton John on the "telly" and the fireworks too. Abbey and Katie took advantage of the free tube to head toward Westminster for close-up views.
New Year's Day seemed appropriate for Westminster Abbey. Very informative and entertaining audio tour. Saw the Poets Corner!!!! Had some pub fare at Sherlock Holmes Pub after walking to the London Eye but declining to wait in the very long line. Emma was thrilled -- she hailed the taxi to take us back.
Today was the Tower of London after the bus tour of central London. The Yeoman Warder (Beefeater) who was our guide infused British humor with history. His delivery made me think he could also be a stand-up comedian. Late lunch at a pub in the City (old city of London); Abbey and Katie did the Globe and St. Paul's.
Sunday, December 28, 2008
Post-Christmas in Paris
Friday, 26 December: Disneyland Paris (DLP).
The temperatures slid downward Christmas night, and by mid-morning, a blustery wind kicked up. Nevertheless, we had a wonderful time at DLP. From Crush's Coaster (from Finding Nemo) to Star Tours (Star Wars simulation) to Indian Jones and the Temple of Peril, we enjoyed rides, shows, and exhibits. I really liked the Cinemagique, which pieced scenes of well-known movies together with a modern storyline featuring Martin Short. Very clever and funny. The Swiss Family Robinson Treehouse was super; I wanted to watch the movie again (and I still have never read the novel!!!). 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, Aladdin, "Honey, I Shrunk the Audience," and Buzz Lightyear were others. We arrived at 10:15 and left at 9:45. Needless to say, we slept well that night.
Saturday, 27 December: Right Bank Meanderings
A slow start to the day for us, but we eventually got some momentum and explored some familiar territory along Rue de Rivoli and the Louvre. Very cold day; Abbey and Emma bought some warmer gloves, and I found a headwrap to warm my ears. We walked to Place de la Concord and watched the Eiffel Tower's Christmas lights blink (and blink and blink . . .) and the found a wonderful restaurant just off Rue St. Honore (always look for the menus without English translations!). Tim indulged in more oysters on the half-shell; Emma chose duck (surprise, surprise!); and Abbey and I had succulant salmon with perfectly done vegetables. Another fire in the fireplace -- ahhhh! And some great conversation with Barb & Bill and with Kathy. Gotta love the Skype!
Sunday, 28 December: Left Bank Meanderings
Another slow start -- we must be wimping out! Actually, we spend much of the morning Skyping with our Paderno neighbors, Scott, Judy, Maddy, and Jo Jo, who are now in Lugano, Switzerland. It's cold there, too, unusual for this part of Switzerland which often has warmer temperatures than Rome. We packed a lot of our stuff, then decided to explore the Left Bank or Rive Gauche in the St. Germain-des-Pres quarter with the thoughts of visiting the D'Orsay Museum and its Impressionist collection. Alas, everyone in Paris evidently had the same thought -- that plus a special exhibit had lines winding out the entrance, even at 3 in the afternoon. Abbey will just have to see the collection another time (Tim, Emma, & I were there 2 years ago). Instead, we splurged with some tea, wine, and onion soup at the famous Le Flor.
Tomorrow we head to London to meet Katie (Abbey's friend)! Time is whizzing by.
The temperatures slid downward Christmas night, and by mid-morning, a blustery wind kicked up. Nevertheless, we had a wonderful time at DLP. From Crush's Coaster (from Finding Nemo) to Star Tours (Star Wars simulation) to Indian Jones and the Temple of Peril, we enjoyed rides, shows, and exhibits. I really liked the Cinemagique, which pieced scenes of well-known movies together with a modern storyline featuring Martin Short. Very clever and funny. The Swiss Family Robinson Treehouse was super; I wanted to watch the movie again (and I still have never read the novel!!!). 20,000 Leagues Under the Sea, Aladdin, "Honey, I Shrunk the Audience," and Buzz Lightyear were others. We arrived at 10:15 and left at 9:45. Needless to say, we slept well that night.
Saturday, 27 December: Right Bank Meanderings
A slow start to the day for us, but we eventually got some momentum and explored some familiar territory along Rue de Rivoli and the Louvre. Very cold day; Abbey and Emma bought some warmer gloves, and I found a headwrap to warm my ears. We walked to Place de la Concord and watched the Eiffel Tower's Christmas lights blink (and blink and blink . . .) and the found a wonderful restaurant just off Rue St. Honore (always look for the menus without English translations!). Tim indulged in more oysters on the half-shell; Emma chose duck (surprise, surprise!); and Abbey and I had succulant salmon with perfectly done vegetables. Another fire in the fireplace -- ahhhh! And some great conversation with Barb & Bill and with Kathy. Gotta love the Skype!
Sunday, 28 December: Left Bank Meanderings
Another slow start -- we must be wimping out! Actually, we spend much of the morning Skyping with our Paderno neighbors, Scott, Judy, Maddy, and Jo Jo, who are now in Lugano, Switzerland. It's cold there, too, unusual for this part of Switzerland which often has warmer temperatures than Rome. We packed a lot of our stuff, then decided to explore the Left Bank or Rive Gauche in the St. Germain-des-Pres quarter with the thoughts of visiting the D'Orsay Museum and its Impressionist collection. Alas, everyone in Paris evidently had the same thought -- that plus a special exhibit had lines winding out the entrance, even at 3 in the afternoon. Abbey will just have to see the collection another time (Tim, Emma, & I were there 2 years ago). Instead, we splurged with some tea, wine, and onion soup at the famous Le Flor.
Tomorrow we head to London to meet Katie (Abbey's friend)! Time is whizzing by.
Thursday, December 25, 2008
Christmas 2008
After a delightful Christmas Eve in front of a fireplace w/ smoked salmon, oysters, fruit, cheese, foie gras, and homemade cookies, we slept well. During the night, Santa Claus visited, leaving us tickets to Disneyland Paris, about 30 minutes away. We'll go tomorrow.
We strolled down to Notre-Dame, then along the Seine and Louvre -- many of the museums were open today. The sidewalks were busy with people -- families with young kids; couples young and old; individuals mingling with others. Lots of "Joyeaux Noel" and "Bonnes Fetes" with smiles and nods of heads. Mulled wine and chestnuts at street corners, and lights, lights, lights. The air is cool and crisp today but pleasant enough for walking with sunshine. Staff people at outdoor cafes with heaters on were busy serving wine, tea, snacks; some souvenir shops were open as well.
After the 3-hour walk, we caught the metro back to our apartment to fix some Christmas dinner and catch up with family via Skype.
Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas.
We strolled down to Notre-Dame, then along the Seine and Louvre -- many of the museums were open today. The sidewalks were busy with people -- families with young kids; couples young and old; individuals mingling with others. Lots of "Joyeaux Noel" and "Bonnes Fetes" with smiles and nods of heads. Mulled wine and chestnuts at street corners, and lights, lights, lights. The air is cool and crisp today but pleasant enough for walking with sunshine. Staff people at outdoor cafes with heaters on were busy serving wine, tea, snacks; some souvenir shops were open as well.
After the 3-hour walk, we caught the metro back to our apartment to fix some Christmas dinner and catch up with family via Skype.
Wishing everyone a very Merry Christmas.
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Nous sommes arrive a Paris
Bon jour, rather bon nuit.
We are back in France, Paris to be exact, and it feels sooooo good!!!
We left Cortona around noon, changed trains at Florence, and arrived in Milan about 4 in the afternoon. Our hotel, Hotel Berna, is a short walk from Milano Centrale (the train station). After we freshened up, we walked about a mile to the downtown center to see La Scala and the magnificent Duomo. The city's Christmas decorations are beautiful, and the Galleria, a partially enclosed shopping area, is lit with blue and silver lights. It was an evening with a surprise treat -- an open-air, free concert by Natalie Cole in the Piazza of Milan's incredible Gothic Duomo. If we had tried to plan the evening like this, we couldn't have done!!
This morning we left Milan around 8, the train scheduled to arrive in Paris at 3:15. Since it was our train, there had to some hitches. First the border police between Italy and France conducted a thorough search of passports, eventually taking in 3 people who were illegally on the train. Then, the engineer announced that we had to change trains on Lyon as the one we were on had faulty wheels that didn't allow it to go TGV speed. So change trains we all did -- at this point most of us in the car knew each other (given the incident with the border police, a 7-hour train ride, and a broken-down train). Despite the mix of French, Italian, and English languages we all spoke, we all helped each other with luggage and baby/toddler watching (several families on the train).
At 4:15, we arrived at Gare de Lyon station and caught a taxi to our apartment that borders the Marais / Les Halles-Beaubourg areas, just north of Notre Dame. The apartment is small, but charming with a fireplace. Mussels for dinner tonight at Leon de Bruxelles in Place de la Republic.
Tomorrow -- the market for food, some Santa errands, the Picasso museum. Ahhh, France! It feels wonderful to be back.
We are back in France, Paris to be exact, and it feels sooooo good!!!
We left Cortona around noon, changed trains at Florence, and arrived in Milan about 4 in the afternoon. Our hotel, Hotel Berna, is a short walk from Milano Centrale (the train station). After we freshened up, we walked about a mile to the downtown center to see La Scala and the magnificent Duomo. The city's Christmas decorations are beautiful, and the Galleria, a partially enclosed shopping area, is lit with blue and silver lights. It was an evening with a surprise treat -- an open-air, free concert by Natalie Cole in the Piazza of Milan's incredible Gothic Duomo. If we had tried to plan the evening like this, we couldn't have done!!
This morning we left Milan around 8, the train scheduled to arrive in Paris at 3:15. Since it was our train, there had to some hitches. First the border police between Italy and France conducted a thorough search of passports, eventually taking in 3 people who were illegally on the train. Then, the engineer announced that we had to change trains on Lyon as the one we were on had faulty wheels that didn't allow it to go TGV speed. So change trains we all did -- at this point most of us in the car knew each other (given the incident with the border police, a 7-hour train ride, and a broken-down train). Despite the mix of French, Italian, and English languages we all spoke, we all helped each other with luggage and baby/toddler watching (several families on the train).
At 4:15, we arrived at Gare de Lyon station and caught a taxi to our apartment that borders the Marais / Les Halles-Beaubourg areas, just north of Notre Dame. The apartment is small, but charming with a fireplace. Mussels for dinner tonight at Leon de Bruxelles in Place de la Republic.
Tomorrow -- the market for food, some Santa errands, the Picasso museum. Ahhh, France! It feels wonderful to be back.
Saturday, December 20, 2008
Cortona
With a crescent moon still bright, the sun is just beginning to peek over the horizon of hills, spreading reddish light over the Chiana plain below Cortona. I open the window for some cool morning air, and the bakery aromas tease me. Sigh. We are leaving Cortona today after a wonderful week in eastern Tuscany. This ancient Etruscan hill town is as beautiful as Frances Mayes describes it in her memoir, and I have taken numerous pictures of it and the countryside for my course next semester as I'll be teaching Under the Tuscan Sun again. Tim and I took the "Big Walk" three times. The "Big Walk," as it is referred to here, is a 3 mile or so path that encircles the town outside its walls. We leave the town proper at Piazza Girabaldi, stroll through the parterre built by Napolean (one of 2 flat walks in Cortona!), out into the country a bit, past Bramasole (Mayes' house), around the old fort at the highest point on this hill and St. Margherita church and back again by way of Via San Niccolo. We have had such a relaxing time here.
After the morning market, we leave for Milan for a night there before heading to Paris for the Christmas holidays. More updates soon.
After the morning market, we leave for Milan for a night there before heading to Paris for the Christmas holidays. More updates soon.
Wednesday, November 26, 2008
A Tale of Three Cities: Part I, FLORENCE
Tale of Three Cities – In three parts
Florence, Rome, and Naples. In three weeks, we have visited these three cities, each of which reflects a different face of Italy; sharper contrasts would be difficult to find, even in this country of contrasts.
Florence, Rome, and Naples. In three weeks, we have visited these three cities, each of which reflects a different face of Italy; sharper contrasts would be difficult to find, even in this country of contrasts.
Part 1 of 3 – Florence, the Renaissance city.
Florence (Firenze) in many ways is the heart of Italy’s past. Birthplace or adopted home of artists, scientists, writers, it is the quintessential Renaissance city. Every corner, alley, and piazza reveal the richness of this period. While the compactness of Florence makes it quite easy to explore on foot, its windy streets and alleys confuse the tourist nearly as much as those of Venice.
Friday, 24 October. We arrived around noon and made the mistake of exiting Santa Maria Novella train station on the side, which put us in the wrong direction for the centro (city center) and our hotel. Abbey now insists that we go in the opposite direction of what I suggest! Rather unfair, I say. After some meandering, we found ourselves at the Duomo – a breath-taking sight. Emma had her back to it at first, gabbing at me about some candy she had seen in a store window and waving at some of our CIMBA students across the street; I turned her around, and her jaw dropped. “Wow,” she whispered – then silence for a full 30 seconds, a rarity for Emma.
The multi-marbled building with Brunelleschi’s dome that defied engineering concepts at the time is only one of many sights that leaves one in awe of Florence’s Renaissance artistry. Referred to as the Duomo, the church is named Santa Maria del Fiore and is the 4th largest in Europe. Its appearance today evolved over several centuries : original 4th century bronze Baptistry doors; 13th century ceiling mosaics and Ghiberti’s and Pisano’s “Gates of Paradise” replacement doors (1401) of the Baptistry; the terra cotta Dome completed in 1463; the red, green, and white Tuscan marble facade added in the 1800's. Scarcely paying attention to the throngs on the sidewalks, we stared at the Duomo as we walked around it to get to the hotel, located on a quiet side street about 3 blocks from its Piazza or square.
Naturally I missed the street we were to turn onto; asking a café owner “Dove via Borga del Albizi?” I was excited to readily understand his response, only to realize that my understanding resulted not from any increased skill with Italian on my part but from hearing a Florentine speak. The dialect of the north, at least in the Veneto, often confuses even Silvia and Michela, our Italian language faculty who are native Italians! Florence, however, has long been regarded as the place to learn Italian, where the “purest” Italian is spoken, though some argue Siena, once Florence’s rival, is where one should study the language. All I know is that I appreciated being able to communicate in Italian, rudimentary though it was.
We found our hotel building by its number on the wall, though it took some investigating to find where precisely the hotel was in that building – a centuries’ old palazzo (palace). We entered through a tall wrought iron gate that led to a gardened courtyard. Okay, now where? We finally spotted Albergo Bavaria next to a flight of stairs, make that several flights of stairs. “When will I remember that Europeans number the first floor or piano as 0, that floor 1 is what we would call floor 2?” I thought to myself. I did recall, with a sigh, that our hotel was on piano 2, floor 3. Grrr. With a few missed turns, including one into a pricey art store (oops), we found the reception desk, staffed by relatively young, energetic people.
After registering our passports (requirement in Italy), the woman took us to our room – up another level of stairs, old stairs made of solid stone that I could imagine 15th century workers hauling up from the cobblestone street, sweating profusely as they positioned each block, chiseling edges to fit the pieces into place. Another door at the top of the stairs opened into a huge sitting room with 20 foot ceilings, walls with mirrors and reproductions of Uffizi and Pitti Palace art, and tiled floors. A table and chairs looked like they originated in the late Medieval period while a couch and chair were distinctly high Victorian. Down a long hallway, up a short (thankfully) flight of steps, we finally arrived at our room. Roomy with 3 beds, a wardrobe, night stands, good-sized bathroom, and best of all, a close-up view of the Dome from both long windows! I couldn’t help wonder how people ever found their way around these palazzi !! I also wondered what a 3, 4, or 5 star hotel would be like as Albergo Bavaria was considered “budget” and was indeed very affordable!
First on the to-do list: lunch. It was 1:00, and we had left the apartment early that morning to catch the train from Castelfranco to Padua with a change to Florence. Despite warnings from the travel guides about cafés on the major piazzi, we stopped at the first place we came to, with a first-rate view of the Duomo and the Piazza. We had a wonderful lunch outside (weather was a balmy 70 degrees F), shared a bottle of Tuscan Merlot, and yes, paid too much. Nevertheless, our stomachs were pleasantly filled, and we had the energy to explore the Duomo.
Inside the church, we found a reverent quiet, despite the many people there. Artistry exists wherever one looks: sculpted columns; frescoes or paintings on the walls; inlaid marble floor; altars intricately carved with some parts painted and others gilded in gold. The offset chapels within are richly decorated in high Renaissance style. Biblical stories come to life in frescoes and paintings, often with prominent contemporaries of the artists subtly inserted in a corner or two. The line to climb to the Dome was long, so we decided to see if we could advance our reserved entry to the Accademia, visited primarily for Michelangelo’s David.
We left the Duomo to get to the Accademia, running into more of our students on the way (Florence was a popular get-away for the travel weekend). Although ahead of our appointment time, we were allowed inside. A couple of rooms of religious iconography and gilded altars – then David. I had been here 20 years ago and remembered being awed by the marble statue; I was in awe again. David is indeed larger than life, in more ways than one. The fluidity and grace are remarkable given the solidity of marble as a medium.
On the way back to the hotel, the Dome’s line had disappeared, a perfect time to climb the Duomo’s dome for a view of the city on high. Up, up, and up. I think there are as many steps as there are for Nôtre-Dame in Paris!!! Breathless, we reached the top. Despite the haze in the distance, the view was wonderful. Terra-cotta rooftops, gentle mountains, Piazzale Michelangelo and Santa Croce to the southeast, Fiesole to the north. Somehow the camera couldn’t capture the view as we saw it. What was perhaps most impressive was the ceiling of the Dome. 16th century Last Judgment frescoes dominated the Dome’s ceiling. On the way up, we could circle the Dome at one level, seeing the explicitly brutal representations of sinners and non-believers condemned to eternal damnation; on the way down, we circled it at an even closer level. No wonder the church had been able to keep the illiterate masses in line for so long, I thought. The scenes were right out of Dante’s Inferno, complete with personal messages to contemporaries who insulted the artists or committed major socio-political faux pas.
Tired from studying, Abbey decided to go to bed early that night, so Tim, Emma, and I went to a recommended restaurant a block and a half from our hotel. We splurged and ordered biftek florentine – the best steak you could ever imagine. I remembered how much I loved it the last time I was in Florence; it was just as good this time. The three of us enjoyed it; Emma loved her Tuscan soup; we all relaxed in the small, cozy restaurant. Italian, English, and German languages mixed together, yet everyone spoke the same in savoring good food, wine, and community. Later we enjoyed a lovely passagiata (stroll) through several of the piazzas. It was 10 at night, comfortably warm, and Florentines and tourists alike were enjoying the favorite Italian evening pastime. Children played with lit whirly-gigs while parents talked; couples linked arms and quietly meandered; older people stood or sat at café tables, remembering the passagiati of their youth. The crescent moon glimmered over the Arno and the Duomo as we made our way back to the hotel.
Saturday, 25 October. The next morning, after a satisfying breakfast featuring the same wonderful yogurt we had at Rapallo, we headed to the Pitti Palace, an art museum across the Arno. Built by the Pitti family in 1549, this palazzo began as a competition to out-do the de Medicis; however, the Pittis went bankrupt a few years after beginning it, and ironically, the de Medicis bought it. Now a renowned museum featuring a variety of Italian artists and sculptors, it also has a costume section and beautiful gardens, Boboli Gardens, that rival Longwood. Featuring traditional Renaissance art in the Palantine Gallery, such as Raphael's Woman with a Veil, the disturbing Martyrdom of St. Agatha by Sebastiano del Piombo, and others by TItian, Ruebens, and Correggio, I found that the Gallery of Modern Art was more interesting. At first I wasn't going to explore this part of the Pitti since I don't care for Modern Art, but Florence's version of modern is 18th and 19th century, including some by Antonio Canova, who was born and lived in Possagno, a small town near Paderno. I fell in love with many of the works, getting a few small prints as mementos. As with most palaces, the interior itself is as impressive as the art, including the family’s quarters that we were able to see. Sumptuous ballrooms, lavish bedchambers, and art everywhere – no chintzy Target reproductions either!
Hungry after a full morning at Pitti Palace, we crossed back over Ponte Vecchio, which was much more alive at noon than it was at 9 in the morning. People snapped pictures from every angle; I laughed at them and did the same. Interesting, I didn’t remember as many “chintzy” jewelry shops there the last time; however, some quality stores are still on the bridge, although most are on small streets away from the bridge. We found a pleasant restaurant near Piazza Vecchio, and Abbey decided that since she missed out on the Tuscan steak the night before she would have some for lunch. The waiter explained that the portion would be large, more appropriate for two people, but she wanted it. While I had Tuscan tomato soup and Emma had vegetable soup and Tim had a house specialty, Abbey found herself with a huge, beautifully rare steak (though the server, not our waiter, tried to give it to Tim, not believing a “girl” could eat it). Eat it, she did – all of it. When our waiter returned, he looked astonished at the empty plate with only the steak bone, and then shouted “Bravo!!!” As Abbey left the restaurant, she received a number of admiring smiles and nods from the rest of the staff. Evidently they aren’t familiar with the appetite of a 19-year old who was not going to miss out on a Tuscan steak!
Our plan had been to see the Science Museum that afternoon, but unfortunately it was closed. It wasn’t supposed to be, but, well, it’s Italy. Normale. So we did the next best thing – shop! Although Florence is not a city for the budget-conscious, it also is not exorbitant and does offer quality, hand-crafted Italian goods, such as silk scarves; leather purses, bags, gloves, and coats; jewelry; paper goods; decent art prints. Abbey and I found some stylish yet practical Italian leather boots; Tim got two nice pairs of shoes; and I splurged on a 3/4 length leather coat that cost less than a Kohl’s special! Between the markets and the Italian/French/Spanish department store chains, we all did well: warm sweaters for Tim and Emma (the Veneto is cold earlier than Tuscany); pants for Abbey; a pair of jeans for me; gifts for family and friends back home.
Dinner that night was a block from the hotel, and we had some more typical Tuscan fare. Emma has become addicted to Tuscan vegetable soup, a variation of the Americanized pasta fagiole soup, but much heartier and richer. Tim experimented with I’m not sure what sort of meat; Abbey and I enjoyed our favorite – pasta with a creamy pesto-like sauce. Chianti, of course, for Tuscany. Too full for dolci (dessert), we enjoyed a stroll through Piazzi (squares) Vecchio and Duomo. The moon was almost full, with a clear sky affording memorable glimpses of Florentine rooftops and silhouettes. Dinner settled nicely, and the miles of walking that day took their toll. By 11:30, with the many piazzi still lively, we were ready for sleep.
Sunday, 26 October. A beautiful morning on Sunday; we were up early for our scheduled visit to the Uffizi. Not entirely rested, however, as we had done battle with zanzari (mosquitoes), the night before. Abbey had complained about them the night before, but we laughed it off, telling her she was much sweeter than the rest of us. Well, that night, the mosquitoes found all of us. These are nasty little things that like to fly into rooms (such beautiful weather, we had the windows open all day and night) and suck as much blood as possible from humans simply trying to get a good night’s sleep. We embarked on a mosquito killing rampage that morning, wondering how to explain the spots of blood on the walls where our aim was true. Itching, we consoled ourselves with another good breakfast and the thought of the Uffizi.
Our appointed entrance time was 9:30, the museum opening then. About 6 blocks from our hotel and just past Palazzo Vecchio, the Uffizi sits by the Arno. It was built by Giorgio Vasari for Cosimo I de Medici in 1560. Its arcaded entrance protects the lines from sun and rain; although no protection was needed this morning, I was amazed to see how long the lines were. Late October, not the height of tourist season, at 9:30 am, the line was at least an hour long. With reserved times, we simply went to a separate window to give our number, paid for our tickets, and then into the museum directly following a security check (now required at all museums).
Up several flights of stairs (the higher level wise for the few times the Arno overflowed its banks and flooded the city), the beautiful collection of the Uffizi is housed on one floor. Off a continuous U-shaped corridor, are several salons or rooms that showcase particular works. Vasari designed the corridor to emphasize with cornice perspectives its length. Again, we stood for several minutes simply looking at the ceiling, which was as beautiful as I had remembered. I looked more closely this time and realized that some of the images, though delicately wrought, were rather quirky – little gnome-like creatures with suspicious-looking smiles or impish ogres masquerading as angels. Hmmm, makes one wonder about the artists.
Botticelli's Birth of Venus and Primavera (Spring); Ucello's Battle of San Ramono; da Vinci's The Annunciation and Adoration of the Magi; Michelangelo's Doni Tonda; Caravaggio's Medusa; Raphael's Madonna of the Goldfinch; and many, many more artists from all around Italy and Europe.
Walking in the broad sun-filled corridor with its collection of ancient statues and busts, I recalled the film, Tea with Mussolini, especially scenes of Judi Dench, Maggie Smith, and Joan Plowright. working to restore the artwork and that community of women, British expatriates plus the Americans, played by Cher and Lily Tomlin, who banded together to prevent the soldiers from ransacking the museum. A fictional story, despite its historic setting, I couldn’t help but think I would have been standing with those ladies, a part of that human barricade.
Following a light lunch was an afternoon of shopping and exploring. Santa Croce church, a few blocks south of the hotel, may not be as grand as the Duomo, but it is as breathtaking. The interior is tastefully lavish; rather than what seems in many churches to showcase as much art from as many periods and with as many themes as possible, Santa Croce’s decor might even be called understated in comparison. Featuring the resting places of Galileo, Dante, and light, colorful frescoes and art, the church uplifted the spirits quite differently than the others have. Scenes from A Room with a View (both Forster’s novel and Merchant's and Ivory's film) popped into my head as we quietly explored the church and then its courtyard and catacombs.
A warm afternoon, the evening cooled off slowly, and we had a lovely dinner outside with table-top candles and patio lamps, just off a small square. The maitre d’ was an old man who was either deaf or unable to speak or articulate. He clearly loved his job of seating people at this small, cozy restaurant. A group of 6 or 7 women from the UK were there, obvious their second or third time for dinner. After seating them, he purchased a rose for each one from a passing street “florist”; he could have been a handsome, young Italian courting them all, so delighted were they by his gift. Their delight, however, was his. After a wonderful meal with wonderful wine, we left; our maitre d’ was there to shake our hands, and the girls and I kissed him with a “grazie mille” and “arrivederci” on either cheek in Italian style. He smiled the biggest smile I ever saw. Later that evening as we passed by the restaurant, he was still smiling.
Sunday night brought out as many people as the other nights did, helped, I am sure, by the 60 degree temperatures and starry skies. Everywhere, communities of people gathered, small and large groups, mingling from one group to another. Street musicians at every corner contributed to the ambience, and we became part of an appreciative audience of a soloist and her accompanist to listen to arias and ballads from all times and cultures. She moved Abbey, who bought her CD, and I think it is she who inspired Abbey to perform “O mio babbino caro” at the talent night a month later.
Monday, 27 October. Because we were still on a T/Th teaching schedule, we could stay until Monday to enjoy some more time in Florence. We packed after breakfast and then headed for the Science Museum, which offered reduced admission price because of renovations that closed part of it off. However, what we wanted to see was still open – Florence’s tribute to Galileo. Once despised by many, banned from his Florentine home, and excommunicated from the Catholic Church for his heliocentric theory, Galileo has earned in death what he could not in life: respect and honor. We learned about astronomy of Renaissance and how the various telescopes were constructed and what all one could see with them, including some moons of Jupiter and rings of Saturn. I realized that my ignorance in physics made understanding the telescope concepts difficult at times but did not ruin my appreciation for the breakthroughs in science so significant in the Renaissance. Short video presentations in multiple languages, including English, provided information in a quick and painless tutorial. Why don’t we in the States have exhibits in varied languages at our historic sites?
Bags in tow, we made our way back to Santa Maria Novella train station, stopping to buy a few more gifts; suitcases were significantly heavier with our shopping purchases. We arrived early enough to get luggage space on the Eurostar back to Padua. On to Castelfranco and the car and Paderno. Only three hours later to home in the Veneto, yet worlds away from the Renaissance world of Florence.
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