Bon jour, rather bon nuit.
We are back in France, Paris to be exact, and it feels sooooo good!!!
We left Cortona around noon, changed trains at Florence, and arrived in Milan about 4 in the afternoon. Our hotel, Hotel Berna, is a short walk from Milano Centrale (the train station). After we freshened up, we walked about a mile to the downtown center to see La Scala and the magnificent Duomo. The city's Christmas decorations are beautiful, and the Galleria, a partially enclosed shopping area, is lit with blue and silver lights. It was an evening with a surprise treat -- an open-air, free concert by Natalie Cole in the Piazza of Milan's incredible Gothic Duomo. If we had tried to plan the evening like this, we couldn't have done!!
This morning we left Milan around 8, the train scheduled to arrive in Paris at 3:15. Since it was our train, there had to some hitches. First the border police between Italy and France conducted a thorough search of passports, eventually taking in 3 people who were illegally on the train. Then, the engineer announced that we had to change trains on Lyon as the one we were on had faulty wheels that didn't allow it to go TGV speed. So change trains we all did -- at this point most of us in the car knew each other (given the incident with the border police, a 7-hour train ride, and a broken-down train). Despite the mix of French, Italian, and English languages we all spoke, we all helped each other with luggage and baby/toddler watching (several families on the train).
At 4:15, we arrived at Gare de Lyon station and caught a taxi to our apartment that borders the Marais / Les Halles-Beaubourg areas, just north of Notre Dame. The apartment is small, but charming with a fireplace. Mussels for dinner tonight at Leon de Bruxelles in Place de la Republic.
Tomorrow -- the market for food, some Santa errands, the Picasso museum. Ahhh, France! It feels wonderful to be back.
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Showing posts with label France. Show all posts
Sunday, December 21, 2008
Monday, September 8, 2008
A Day Trip to Angers – Monday, 1 September 2008
[See A DAY TRIP TO ANGERS link for pictures]
Monsieur and Madame Dalac, our Saumur hotel owners, recommended Angers for a day trip, and as it had been one of my choices upon researching possible places in the Anjou area, we decided to go. A 20-minute walk to the train station, a 20-minute train ride, et voilà – Angers. Once we directionally oriented ourselves at the station, we found that the historic downtown area of this bustling university city was a mere 10 minutes away.
Near the Château was a little tourist “train,” much like the one we took in Avignon two years ago on our trip to France; it gives a wonderful ride around the historic centre so one can learn where some of the major sites are: St. Maurice Cathédrâle, the Château, the timber-framed houses, fountains, gardens, and statues. Two British couples (from just outside Bath) and a French grandmother and her adorable 4- year old granddaughter were on the train with us, and we all had a great fun. The Brits, retired couples, possessed the typical dry humor and friendliness (particularly the men, with whom Tim related quite well), and the little French girl leaned out to all passerbys with a wave and a “Bon jour” or “cuckoo” – all with a smile. Abbey had already met our multilingual driver in the postcard store; he too had a devilish sense of humor, teasing Emma and little French girl. The guide materials were in multiple languages, including English, making it easier for us to learn basic information as we went along.
After the train excursion, we explored the 12th century Château for several hours. Like most castles, it was built over many years and upon the foundation of older fortresses, and this one was “completed” during the 15th century eign of René I, the last duke of Anjou (Loire region of Saumur, Angers, Chinon, and a few other places). The Château has had a checkered history: from creative, expensive renovations by René I to a prison established by Louis XIV to an official historic monument in the late 19th century to German munitions base during WWII, at which time it incurred damages from Allied attacks.
Lovely gardens (which once had an aviary and bestiary), wonderful rampart walk with turrets or towers that featured magnificent views of the city and surrounding countryside, and historic rooms from centuries back – all these provided us with a sense of the ups and downs of castle living: huge fireplaces but drafty windows; tapestried walls but cold floors; fantastic views but watch out for enemy arrows! Tapestries were popular for functional reasons: they provided warmth in cold weather. However, they also signified wealth and status. Many of the tapestries were woven in Paris and Flanders; weavers followed the artists’ full size designs, and most of these tapestries were bigger than a 12x12 rug.
One of the most interesting areas of the Château was a recently built room that features nearly a hundred tapestries depicting 14th century artists’ depictions of the last day (literally), aptly called The Apocalypse Tapestries. Influenced by the Apostle John’s visions as recounted in the book of Revelations, these interpretations present dire scenes of sinners’ fates, the rewards for the elect or saved, the earth’s kings laying down their crowns to The King (Christ), slaying the dragon, the fall of Babylon, and so forth, all culminating in the New Jersusalem. Viewing these scenes, I couldn’t help but think of Dante’s Inferno and the progression of eternal punishments “Dante” and his guide Virgil witnessed as they descended into hell’s abyss. One quickly senses how much such images enabled the Church and powerful to control the masses. I wouldn’t have wanted to have messed with that dragon!!!
After the Château, we went to St. Maurice, the Gothic church built in the 12th century. More tapestries, incredible wooden carvings that unfortunately were too dark for effective pictures with our cameras. The 100 or so stone steps from the front of the church lead down to a fountain and square, enjoyed by students and families alike. The timbered framed houses, much like those in Saumur, reminded me of the architecture in Strasbourg in the Alsace-Lorraine, which is heavily influenced by German style.
Well, so much for the history, which is remarkable for the four of us but common for the people here. Angers is a fairly large city, yet it exudes charm and warmth. Mothers or fathers with children in tow slip in and out of various stores purchasing foods for evening dinner. Workers hurry to either reopen the shop closed for a lengthy lunch or to home after a full day. The many university students contribute to the atmosphere as they gather on the steps of the church to play guitars or sit around the fountain or Château’s greens to talk and do school work. Accustomed to tourists from all over, Angers welcomes all. Observing the bustlers and amblers, we enjoy a late afternoon tea (and a mousse chocolat for Abbey and Emma). All too soon, we catch the train back to Saumur.
Monsieur and Madame Dalac, our Saumur hotel owners, recommended Angers for a day trip, and as it had been one of my choices upon researching possible places in the Anjou area, we decided to go. A 20-minute walk to the train station, a 20-minute train ride, et voilà – Angers. Once we directionally oriented ourselves at the station, we found that the historic downtown area of this bustling university city was a mere 10 minutes away.
Near the Château was a little tourist “train,” much like the one we took in Avignon two years ago on our trip to France; it gives a wonderful ride around the historic centre so one can learn where some of the major sites are: St. Maurice Cathédrâle, the Château, the timber-framed houses, fountains, gardens, and statues. Two British couples (from just outside Bath) and a French grandmother and her adorable 4- year old granddaughter were on the train with us, and we all had a great fun. The Brits, retired couples, possessed the typical dry humor and friendliness (particularly the men, with whom Tim related quite well), and the little French girl leaned out to all passerbys with a wave and a “Bon jour” or “cuckoo” – all with a smile. Abbey had already met our multilingual driver in the postcard store; he too had a devilish sense of humor, teasing Emma and little French girl. The guide materials were in multiple languages, including English, making it easier for us to learn basic information as we went along.
After the train excursion, we explored the 12th century Château for several hours. Like most castles, it was built over many years and upon the foundation of older fortresses, and this one was “completed” during the 15th century eign of René I, the last duke of Anjou (Loire region of Saumur, Angers, Chinon, and a few other places). The Château has had a checkered history: from creative, expensive renovations by René I to a prison established by Louis XIV to an official historic monument in the late 19th century to German munitions base during WWII, at which time it incurred damages from Allied attacks.
Lovely gardens (which once had an aviary and bestiary), wonderful rampart walk with turrets or towers that featured magnificent views of the city and surrounding countryside, and historic rooms from centuries back – all these provided us with a sense of the ups and downs of castle living: huge fireplaces but drafty windows; tapestried walls but cold floors; fantastic views but watch out for enemy arrows! Tapestries were popular for functional reasons: they provided warmth in cold weather. However, they also signified wealth and status. Many of the tapestries were woven in Paris and Flanders; weavers followed the artists’ full size designs, and most of these tapestries were bigger than a 12x12 rug.
One of the most interesting areas of the Château was a recently built room that features nearly a hundred tapestries depicting 14th century artists’ depictions of the last day (literally), aptly called The Apocalypse Tapestries. Influenced by the Apostle John’s visions as recounted in the book of Revelations, these interpretations present dire scenes of sinners’ fates, the rewards for the elect or saved, the earth’s kings laying down their crowns to The King (Christ), slaying the dragon, the fall of Babylon, and so forth, all culminating in the New Jersusalem. Viewing these scenes, I couldn’t help but think of Dante’s Inferno and the progression of eternal punishments “Dante” and his guide Virgil witnessed as they descended into hell’s abyss. One quickly senses how much such images enabled the Church and powerful to control the masses. I wouldn’t have wanted to have messed with that dragon!!!
After the Château, we went to St. Maurice, the Gothic church built in the 12th century. More tapestries, incredible wooden carvings that unfortunately were too dark for effective pictures with our cameras. The 100 or so stone steps from the front of the church lead down to a fountain and square, enjoyed by students and families alike. The timbered framed houses, much like those in Saumur, reminded me of the architecture in Strasbourg in the Alsace-Lorraine, which is heavily influenced by German style.
Well, so much for the history, which is remarkable for the four of us but common for the people here. Angers is a fairly large city, yet it exudes charm and warmth. Mothers or fathers with children in tow slip in and out of various stores purchasing foods for evening dinner. Workers hurry to either reopen the shop closed for a lengthy lunch or to home after a full day. The many university students contribute to the atmosphere as they gather on the steps of the church to play guitars or sit around the fountain or Château’s greens to talk and do school work. Accustomed to tourists from all over, Angers welcomes all. Observing the bustlers and amblers, we enjoy a late afternoon tea (and a mousse chocolat for Abbey and Emma). All too soon, we catch the train back to Saumur.
Biking to Montsoreau – Sunday, 31 August 2008
[See BIKING TO MONTSOREAU link for pictures]
A small town just east of Saumur, Montsoreau features a little Sunday market and an historic château made famous in Alexander Dumas’ novel, The Lady of Montsoreau. Actually the events that inspired the novel were probably what truly made the castle famous!
Apparently Jeanne Chabot, the lovely lady (and heiress of the castle) had a lover, Bussy d’Amboise, an Anjou count – something that her husband, Jean de Chambes did not quite like (go figure), especially after Jeanne and Bussy had a rendez-vous or two in her bedroom. Not quite the modern man, her husband forced her to write to d’Amboise, inviting him to Montsoreau, where the two men dueled. Unfortunately for the lover, he lost, both the lady and his life. Evidently Jeanne Chabot recovered from the situation as she and her husband remained married and had 6 children. She is referred to as the “tragic lady”; evidently public opinion was and still is on her side. I’ll have to read Dumas’ novel to get his side of it (though he changed her first name).
Today the Château houses an impressive history of the Loire River and its role in France’s past. A combination of scenography (projected slides); models of barges, windmills, and watermills; holographs of fancy Renaissance balls; and exhibits of materials transported on the barges – salt, tobacco, spices and herbs, wine of course, limestone (for which the area is famous), river rock, and much else.
So to return to the title of this entry, yes we did indeed bike the 15 kilometers from Saumur to Angers, “we” being Tim and I as the girls stayed back, Abbey to do schoolwork and Emma to have downtime. Sans enfants, we set forth along the thankfully flat stretch of road to Montsoreau with the Loire on our left. Some of the road had designated bike paths, but the polite French drivers made the non-bike path portion comfortable. Biking is very popular in the Loire Valley, featuring trails for novices (a notch above ourselves!) and experts (through the hilly vineyards high above the road); therefore, motorists are accustomed to sharing the road. I proudly navigated the roundabouts and eventually learned to look in one direction at a captivating sight while keeping the bike headed properly in the right direction.
It was a lovely day with a slight bit of head wind as we left Saumur, and Tim remarked that we would then have a tail wind for the 15 kilometer return when we were less fresh. Along the roadside, people planted flowers – some perennial, some annual. We saw limestone homes, some built into the limestone-mined hills; intricate wrought iron gates and fences around properties, all with flowers in hanging baskets, pots, or in gardens; wineries, one after the other (no, we did not stop); mushroom places (in season); and suddenly appearing glimpses of the River around multiple bends. A pleasant hour later, we arrive in Montsoreau to a busy little market.
After visiting the castle, we had a lunch at a café in the town’s square, just off the confluence of the Loire and the Vivenne Rivers. Crew teams practiced, and families had fun with canoe-like boats. Feeling somewhat refreshed with the baguette sandwiches, we got back on the bikes, happy to have a tailwind home. But wait – the wind shifted as another front was coming in. No tailwind but instead a rather strong headwind, again. Only us, I thought – sort of like a trip that’s uphill both ways!
We arrived in Saumur pleasantly tired with behinds that were just a bit annoyed with the bike seats. How pleasant to sit in a comfortable chair for a lovely dinner at Place St. Pierre, enjoying fresh tomatoes with olive oil, basil, & mozzarella; seasoned chicken with mushrooms; pommes frites; and of course lovely Champigny wine, the local red that is smooth and dry.
A small town just east of Saumur, Montsoreau features a little Sunday market and an historic château made famous in Alexander Dumas’ novel, The Lady of Montsoreau. Actually the events that inspired the novel were probably what truly made the castle famous!
Apparently Jeanne Chabot, the lovely lady (and heiress of the castle) had a lover, Bussy d’Amboise, an Anjou count – something that her husband, Jean de Chambes did not quite like (go figure), especially after Jeanne and Bussy had a rendez-vous or two in her bedroom. Not quite the modern man, her husband forced her to write to d’Amboise, inviting him to Montsoreau, where the two men dueled. Unfortunately for the lover, he lost, both the lady and his life. Evidently Jeanne Chabot recovered from the situation as she and her husband remained married and had 6 children. She is referred to as the “tragic lady”; evidently public opinion was and still is on her side. I’ll have to read Dumas’ novel to get his side of it (though he changed her first name).
Today the Château houses an impressive history of the Loire River and its role in France’s past. A combination of scenography (projected slides); models of barges, windmills, and watermills; holographs of fancy Renaissance balls; and exhibits of materials transported on the barges – salt, tobacco, spices and herbs, wine of course, limestone (for which the area is famous), river rock, and much else.
So to return to the title of this entry, yes we did indeed bike the 15 kilometers from Saumur to Angers, “we” being Tim and I as the girls stayed back, Abbey to do schoolwork and Emma to have downtime. Sans enfants, we set forth along the thankfully flat stretch of road to Montsoreau with the Loire on our left. Some of the road had designated bike paths, but the polite French drivers made the non-bike path portion comfortable. Biking is very popular in the Loire Valley, featuring trails for novices (a notch above ourselves!) and experts (through the hilly vineyards high above the road); therefore, motorists are accustomed to sharing the road. I proudly navigated the roundabouts and eventually learned to look in one direction at a captivating sight while keeping the bike headed properly in the right direction.
It was a lovely day with a slight bit of head wind as we left Saumur, and Tim remarked that we would then have a tail wind for the 15 kilometer return when we were less fresh. Along the roadside, people planted flowers – some perennial, some annual. We saw limestone homes, some built into the limestone-mined hills; intricate wrought iron gates and fences around properties, all with flowers in hanging baskets, pots, or in gardens; wineries, one after the other (no, we did not stop); mushroom places (in season); and suddenly appearing glimpses of the River around multiple bends. A pleasant hour later, we arrive in Montsoreau to a busy little market.
After visiting the castle, we had a lunch at a café in the town’s square, just off the confluence of the Loire and the Vivenne Rivers. Crew teams practiced, and families had fun with canoe-like boats. Feeling somewhat refreshed with the baguette sandwiches, we got back on the bikes, happy to have a tailwind home. But wait – the wind shifted as another front was coming in. No tailwind but instead a rather strong headwind, again. Only us, I thought – sort of like a trip that’s uphill both ways!
We arrived in Saumur pleasantly tired with behinds that were just a bit annoyed with the bike seats. How pleasant to sit in a comfortable chair for a lovely dinner at Place St. Pierre, enjoying fresh tomatoes with olive oil, basil, & mozzarella; seasoned chicken with mushrooms; pommes frites; and of course lovely Champigny wine, the local red that is smooth and dry.
A Week in Saumur, France!
[See A WEEK IN SAUMUR, FRANCE link for pictures]
Wed. 27 August – London to Saumur (via Paris and Angers)!
After an exhausting trip hauling 13 bags of luggage from London to Paris Gare du Nord, on the metro to Montparnasse (never again the metro with so much luggage!!!), from there to Angers, and then to Saumur. The suitcases with the books were the worst. We never could have made it through the metro had not some gracious women helped us with baggage, including one who gave up her stop to help us all the way to Montparnasse train station. When we reached Saumur, no ramps as there had been at Angers. However, Abbey discovered that she could slide suitcases down the bike ramp quite effectively. Interesting sight, watching a piece of luggage slide like a bowling ball across the lower level of the platform – good thing no other passengers who would no doubt be bowling pins!!
Finally, we gather all pieces, and proceed to the taxi station. Hmmm – empty. No taxis!. I asked and was told some would be there in about 20 minutes. We were hot, exhausted, and bruised (particularly Abbey). Two men came along and asked if we had called a taxi; I said no (no public phone in the immediate area); They talked and mentioned about taking us themselves, then looked at our luggage, looked at their cars, and finally one said he’d call a taxi for us.. Another good Samaritan!
He was true to his word for in about 10 minutes, a taxi with plenty of room came. The driver was very nice and laughed when I explained why we had so much. A short ride later we were at Le Volney Hotel, with Monsieur Dalac greeting us by name – and in English. Furnishing us with a map of town, restaurant recommendations, and a reservation for the National Equitation Performance the next day, he helped with luggage to our room. It is a charming room with two full beds, a desk, a bath/sink, a toilet, and a roomy walk-in closet between them. Showering felt sooooo good!
That first night we explored the town a bit and decided to eat at Auberge St. Pierre. Crowded during this last week of vacation for many Europeans, we had to sit inside but found ourselves next to a British family from Manchester. What a great time – we talked about everything and closed down the restaurant (along with a few others) at midnight.
Thurs., 28 August – National Equitation School
Following a continental breakfast at the hotel, the taxi that Mon. Dalac ordered came to take us to the National Equitation School where we saw the Cadre Noir or Black Riders perform. Trainers showed us how they warm up the horses, and several riders and horses did some show jumping. Eight horses and riders illustrated what used to be a military ceremony for a king or queen, including Lipizzaner-like leaps and jumps. No photography allowed but you can see some of the moves if you google the school or even on the Saumur’s website. I did upload some pictures of the stables and grounds where a few horses were being schooled. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and writing postcards. Had a lovely dinner of mussels and Place Bilange.
Fri., 29 August – the Saumur Château
Explored the town some more and visited the Château, built by Louis I (Anjou duke) in the 14th century. Although the upper rooms were closed for renovation, we could visit the ramparts, courtyard, interior court, and an exhibit of horse “gear” (saddles, bridles, bits, etc.). Incredible views of Saumur and this area of the Loire Valley from this limestone castle. After the castle, we visited St. Pierre church where many of the Huguenots gathered as Saumur was a centre of Protestantism until the 1685 Edict of Nantes. As with many churches in this area, St. Pierre has tapestries and intricately carved wooden choir areas. In the afternoon, Tim went to the Musée des Blinds, or the Tank Museum, which has the largest exhibit of tanks in the world. The girls and I took pictures around the town and did some postcard shopping. Hungry for pasta, we ate at a wonderful restaurant on Place St. Pierre, having pasta with pesto or with mushroom cream or with tomato cream sauce. Yun!
Sat., 30 August – the Market and Jacques
Market this morning – what crowded streets. Vendors displaying everything from clothes and accessories to tools to veggies, fruits, cheeses, and meats. Also some live animals. It was here that we had a brief acquaintance with Jacques. Who is Jacques, you ask? Well he is a little French baby duck that Abbey bought at the market because he looked at her with such big eyes. Great! Just what we needed to take back to the hotel, try to smuggle into Italy, and keep in an apartment. Jacques went back to his first home. Our bikes came, but Abbey didn’t want to ride, so Tim, Emma, & I toured around other areas of the town, finding a lovely garden and Notre-Dame de Nantilly, the oldest church in Saumur. Tim & Emma went for Chinese-Vietnamese food; Abbey and I enjoyed a lovely bistro meal. We all met up for some Tira Misu, Mousse Chocolat, and coffee at another place. Such a hard life! Incredible thunderstorm that night – cooled off the temperatures as today was quite warm.
Sun., 31 August – Biking to Montsoreau
See separate blog post.
Mon., 1 Sept. – A Day Trip to Angers
See separate blog post.
Tuesday, 2 Sept. – Italy: Here We Come!
See separate blog post.
Wed. 27 August – London to Saumur (via Paris and Angers)!
After an exhausting trip hauling 13 bags of luggage from London to Paris Gare du Nord, on the metro to Montparnasse (never again the metro with so much luggage!!!), from there to Angers, and then to Saumur. The suitcases with the books were the worst. We never could have made it through the metro had not some gracious women helped us with baggage, including one who gave up her stop to help us all the way to Montparnasse train station. When we reached Saumur, no ramps as there had been at Angers. However, Abbey discovered that she could slide suitcases down the bike ramp quite effectively. Interesting sight, watching a piece of luggage slide like a bowling ball across the lower level of the platform – good thing no other passengers who would no doubt be bowling pins!!
Finally, we gather all pieces, and proceed to the taxi station. Hmmm – empty. No taxis!. I asked and was told some would be there in about 20 minutes. We were hot, exhausted, and bruised (particularly Abbey). Two men came along and asked if we had called a taxi; I said no (no public phone in the immediate area); They talked and mentioned about taking us themselves, then looked at our luggage, looked at their cars, and finally one said he’d call a taxi for us.. Another good Samaritan!
He was true to his word for in about 10 minutes, a taxi with plenty of room came. The driver was very nice and laughed when I explained why we had so much. A short ride later we were at Le Volney Hotel, with Monsieur Dalac greeting us by name – and in English. Furnishing us with a map of town, restaurant recommendations, and a reservation for the National Equitation Performance the next day, he helped with luggage to our room. It is a charming room with two full beds, a desk, a bath/sink, a toilet, and a roomy walk-in closet between them. Showering felt sooooo good!
That first night we explored the town a bit and decided to eat at Auberge St. Pierre. Crowded during this last week of vacation for many Europeans, we had to sit inside but found ourselves next to a British family from Manchester. What a great time – we talked about everything and closed down the restaurant (along with a few others) at midnight.
Thurs., 28 August – National Equitation School
Following a continental breakfast at the hotel, the taxi that Mon. Dalac ordered came to take us to the National Equitation School where we saw the Cadre Noir or Black Riders perform. Trainers showed us how they warm up the horses, and several riders and horses did some show jumping. Eight horses and riders illustrated what used to be a military ceremony for a king or queen, including Lipizzaner-like leaps and jumps. No photography allowed but you can see some of the moves if you google the school or even on the Saumur’s website. I did upload some pictures of the stables and grounds where a few horses were being schooled. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and writing postcards. Had a lovely dinner of mussels and Place Bilange.
Fri., 29 August – the Saumur Château
Explored the town some more and visited the Château, built by Louis I (Anjou duke) in the 14th century. Although the upper rooms were closed for renovation, we could visit the ramparts, courtyard, interior court, and an exhibit of horse “gear” (saddles, bridles, bits, etc.). Incredible views of Saumur and this area of the Loire Valley from this limestone castle. After the castle, we visited St. Pierre church where many of the Huguenots gathered as Saumur was a centre of Protestantism until the 1685 Edict of Nantes. As with many churches in this area, St. Pierre has tapestries and intricately carved wooden choir areas. In the afternoon, Tim went to the Musée des Blinds, or the Tank Museum, which has the largest exhibit of tanks in the world. The girls and I took pictures around the town and did some postcard shopping. Hungry for pasta, we ate at a wonderful restaurant on Place St. Pierre, having pasta with pesto or with mushroom cream or with tomato cream sauce. Yun!
Sat., 30 August – the Market and Jacques
Market this morning – what crowded streets. Vendors displaying everything from clothes and accessories to tools to veggies, fruits, cheeses, and meats. Also some live animals. It was here that we had a brief acquaintance with Jacques. Who is Jacques, you ask? Well he is a little French baby duck that Abbey bought at the market because he looked at her with such big eyes. Great! Just what we needed to take back to the hotel, try to smuggle into Italy, and keep in an apartment. Jacques went back to his first home. Our bikes came, but Abbey didn’t want to ride, so Tim, Emma, & I toured around other areas of the town, finding a lovely garden and Notre-Dame de Nantilly, the oldest church in Saumur. Tim & Emma went for Chinese-Vietnamese food; Abbey and I enjoyed a lovely bistro meal. We all met up for some Tira Misu, Mousse Chocolat, and coffee at another place. Such a hard life! Incredible thunderstorm that night – cooled off the temperatures as today was quite warm.
Sun., 31 August – Biking to Montsoreau
See separate blog post.
Mon., 1 Sept. – A Day Trip to Angers
See separate blog post.
Tuesday, 2 Sept. – Italy: Here We Come!
See separate blog post.
Thursday, August 28, 2008
We made it!
Greetings from Saumur, France. As many of you know via a hurriedly written e-mail from London, we safely arrived at Heathrow Airport on Tuesday, about 1 1/2 hours early. Once we left the baggage carrier and had to deal with all the bags, we began to rethink our packing! I had checked out sending stuff to Italy, but it seemed too expensive. Should have just done it!!! However, we managed. The Heathrow Connect, a train linking the airport with downtown London, Paddington station, was quick and easy. The hotel was only a few blocks away; still, hands were tired and muscles ached from pulling and carrying.
We enjoyed a nice fish & chips dinner, a lovely walk through Kensington Gardens, and good night's sleep. A taxi (VW Eurovan), took us to St. Pancras Station to catch the Eurostar to Paris -- wonderfully smooth ride -- 2 1/2 hours long is all!! Paris was crazy as we had to connect from Gare du Nord train station to Montparnasse in order to get our train to Saumur. The metro was not a good choice; for some reason it was crowded, and we had soooo much luggage. A wonderful woman on the metro stayed with us and helped us with the luggage to Montparnasse, missing her stop to do so. Exhausted, we got on the TGV train and enjoyed a very scenic trip to the Loire Valley and Saumur. We did have a train change at Angers; again, several of the SNCF (French national train) staff helped us take the bags from one track to another. Then when we arrived in Saumur, the taxi stands were empty as all the cars were occupied. BUT, along comes a very nice man who sees us, asks us if we need a taxi, and then proceeds to call one for us. Our very nice taxi driver, who graciously put up with my bad French, made a quick trip to our hotel, not far away. He slammed on the brakes when a cat ran across the road -- as did all the other drivers. (I suspect the cat did it on purpose as it smiled from the other side.) I told him that we had several cats and 2 dogs; he has 2 cats and said he always watches out for them!! Last night, all I could think of was how many people I have heard say the French are rude. I wonder if those people would have helped us so graciously and unquestioningly as the French did yesterday!!
Lovely dinner last night -- even lovelier Saumur wine. The family sitting next to us was from Manchester, England; they had a boy about Emma's age and a girl a few years younger. We talked, ate, and drank together until midnight!!!
This morning after a wonderful baguette and croissant breakfast, we enjoyed a performance at the French National equestrian school. The Cadre Noir (black riders, not of the Tolkien variety) are also there. We saw dressage, show jumping, and "horse ballet" much like the Lipizzaners of Austria. Marvellous.
Cloudy but comfortable temperatures -- off to explore the old city. I'll upload pictures in a couple of days.
We enjoyed a nice fish & chips dinner, a lovely walk through Kensington Gardens, and good night's sleep. A taxi (VW Eurovan), took us to St. Pancras Station to catch the Eurostar to Paris -- wonderfully smooth ride -- 2 1/2 hours long is all!! Paris was crazy as we had to connect from Gare du Nord train station to Montparnasse in order to get our train to Saumur. The metro was not a good choice; for some reason it was crowded, and we had soooo much luggage. A wonderful woman on the metro stayed with us and helped us with the luggage to Montparnasse, missing her stop to do so. Exhausted, we got on the TGV train and enjoyed a very scenic trip to the Loire Valley and Saumur. We did have a train change at Angers; again, several of the SNCF (French national train) staff helped us take the bags from one track to another. Then when we arrived in Saumur, the taxi stands were empty as all the cars were occupied. BUT, along comes a very nice man who sees us, asks us if we need a taxi, and then proceeds to call one for us. Our very nice taxi driver, who graciously put up with my bad French, made a quick trip to our hotel, not far away. He slammed on the brakes when a cat ran across the road -- as did all the other drivers. (I suspect the cat did it on purpose as it smiled from the other side.) I told him that we had several cats and 2 dogs; he has 2 cats and said he always watches out for them!! Last night, all I could think of was how many people I have heard say the French are rude. I wonder if those people would have helped us so graciously and unquestioningly as the French did yesterday!!
Lovely dinner last night -- even lovelier Saumur wine. The family sitting next to us was from Manchester, England; they had a boy about Emma's age and a girl a few years younger. We talked, ate, and drank together until midnight!!!
This morning after a wonderful baguette and croissant breakfast, we enjoyed a performance at the French National equestrian school. The Cadre Noir (black riders, not of the Tolkien variety) are also there. We saw dressage, show jumping, and "horse ballet" much like the Lipizzaners of Austria. Marvellous.
Cloudy but comfortable temperatures -- off to explore the old city. I'll upload pictures in a couple of days.
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