Kathy Visits!

Last Friday (ooo, Friday the 13th!), Abbey, Emma, and I drove to the train station to pick up Kathy who managed just fine all the connections I gave her!! Tired but full of gab, she was relieved to see us, especially as we were late in getting to the station. We took her grocery shopping -- always an interesting experience here -- and the Sunday market in Crespano. Since it was a beautiful sunny day, Mt. Grappa seemed a likely destination. However, the road about three-quarters of the way up was closed with snow. Still we saw close-up some paragliders take off. Fascinating.

Monday we headed toward Verona. After all the rain and cool temperatures, the sunny days of 50 degrees were welcomed. After checking into the hotel, we had lunch on Piazza Bra and then explored the Roman amphitheather which is almost entirely intact. Built around 300 AD, it can seat 22,000 (compared to Rome's 40,000+). Today it hosts outdoor operas and plays during warm months as it has unbelievable acoustics. The view on the top row of seats highlights the beauty of Verona with the snow-capped mountains near Lake Garda in the background.

After enjoying some window shopping along Via Mazzini, we bought some souvenirs at the market in Piazza Erbe and visited the casa degli Juliette -- Juliet's house, as in Juliet Capulet, of Shakespeare's Romeo and Juliet, which he set in Verona. Although there is no evidence that a Juliet lived here and that even a Juliet existed, one of Verona's most visited sites is this one. The house has an impressive collection of various texts of the play and paintings and prints depicting scenes from the play, most frequently the young lovers' deaths. Also on display are Juliet's dress and Romeo's partywear for the ball. Dinner that night on the Piazza Bra.

Tuesday was again warm and sunny as we explored the Castelvecchio built in 1298 by the Scaligera or Scala family, who ruled Verona until Venice conquored it. Located on the bank of the Adige River, it is imposing with crenellated walls in dark red brick. Inside are various paintings of the family members, statues -- including a huge one of Cangrande II atop his horse -- and other artifacts. A bridge across the river connects the castle to the outer part of town. We walked across, enjoying the sun and then a tasty lunch outside on Piazza Erbe.

Since Kathy said we could do only two churches (!), we visited Sant'Anastasia and the Duomo. Both are interesting architecturally. The Duomo is a mix of Gothic and Roman; Sant'Anastasia is Romanesque on the outside and Gothic inside; it dates from the 13th century. We also toured the ancient Roman theater or teatro, from the time of Augustus. It was "discovered" in the early 1900's.

Verona is a small city, with a very compact center, yet its importance in history is significant. Once a Roman outpost and crossroad for trade, it witnessed conflict with the Guelph and Ghibelline battles in the late Middle Ages and early Renaissance. The Scaligeri (aka Scala) family with its icons of dogs and ladders (scala means ladder in Italian) ruled for many years. Winged lions, the symbol of Venice, also abound in the city, reflecting its Venetian control. Then Napolean came (where didn't he go?) and thankfully left; later Austria and then facism with WWII. Finally post-war peace in 1945. As an FYI, Albany, New York is a sister sister city to Verona!

Some wine, hot chocolate, and more food for Emma at an Enoteca, then off to the train station and home!