A Week in Saumur, France!

[See A WEEK IN SAUMUR, FRANCE link for pictures]

Wed. 27 August – London to Saumur (via Paris and Angers)!
After an exhausting trip hauling 13 bags of luggage from London to Paris Gare du Nord, on the metro to Montparnasse (never again the metro with so much luggage!!!), from there to Angers, and then to Saumur. The suitcases with the books were the worst. We never could have made it through the metro had not some gracious women helped us with baggage, including one who gave up her stop to help us all the way to Montparnasse train station. When we reached Saumur, no ramps as there had been at Angers. However, Abbey discovered that she could slide suitcases down the bike ramp quite effectively. Interesting sight, watching a piece of luggage slide like a bowling ball across the lower level of the platform – good thing no other passengers who would no doubt be bowling pins!!

Finally, we gather all pieces, and proceed to the taxi station. Hmmm – empty. No taxis!. I asked and was told some would be there in about 20 minutes. We were hot, exhausted, and bruised (particularly Abbey). Two men came along and asked if we had called a taxi; I said no (no public phone in the immediate area); They talked and mentioned about taking us themselves, then looked at our luggage, looked at their cars, and finally one said he’d call a taxi for us.. Another good Samaritan!

He was true to his word for in about 10 minutes, a taxi with plenty of room came. The driver was very nice and laughed when I explained why we had so much. A short ride later we were at Le Volney Hotel, with Monsieur Dalac greeting us by name – and in English. Furnishing us with a map of town, restaurant recommendations, and a reservation for the National Equitation Performance the next day, he helped with luggage to our room. It is a charming room with two full beds, a desk, a bath/sink, a toilet, and a roomy walk-in closet between them. Showering felt sooooo good!

That first night we explored the town a bit and decided to eat at Auberge St. Pierre. Crowded during this last week of vacation for many Europeans, we had to sit inside but found ourselves next to a British family from Manchester. What a great time – we talked about everything and closed down the restaurant (along with a few others) at midnight.

Thurs., 28 August – National Equitation School
Following a continental breakfast at the hotel, the taxi that Mon. Dalac ordered came to take us to the National Equitation School where we saw the Cadre Noir or Black Riders perform. Trainers showed us how they warm up the horses, and several riders and horses did some show jumping. Eight horses and riders illustrated what used to be a military ceremony for a king or queen, including Lipizzaner-like leaps and jumps. No photography allowed but you can see some of the moves if you google the school or even on the Saumur’s website. I did upload some pictures of the stables and grounds where a few horses were being schooled. Spent the afternoon exploring the town and writing postcards. Had a lovely dinner of mussels and Place Bilange.

Fri., 29 August – the Saumur Château
Explored the town some more and visited the Château, built by Louis I (Anjou duke) in the 14th century. Although the upper rooms were closed for renovation, we could visit the ramparts, courtyard, interior court, and an exhibit of horse “gear” (saddles, bridles, bits, etc.). Incredible views of Saumur and this area of the Loire Valley from this limestone castle. After the castle, we visited St. Pierre church where many of the Huguenots gathered as Saumur was a centre of Protestantism until the 1685 Edict of Nantes. As with many churches in this area, St. Pierre has tapestries and intricately carved wooden choir areas. In the afternoon, Tim went to the Musée des Blinds, or the Tank Museum, which has the largest exhibit of tanks in the world. The girls and I took pictures around the town and did some postcard shopping. Hungry for pasta, we ate at a wonderful restaurant on Place St. Pierre, having pasta with pesto or with mushroom cream or with tomato cream sauce. Yun!

Sat., 30 August – the Market and Jacques
Market this morning – what crowded streets. Vendors displaying everything from clothes and accessories to tools to veggies, fruits, cheeses, and meats. Also some live animals. It was here that we had a brief acquaintance with Jacques. Who is Jacques, you ask? Well he is a little French baby duck that Abbey bought at the market because he looked at her with such big eyes. Great! Just what we needed to take back to the hotel, try to smuggle into Italy, and keep in an apartment. Jacques went back to his first home. Our bikes came, but Abbey didn’t want to ride, so Tim, Emma, & I toured around other areas of the town, finding a lovely garden and Notre-Dame de Nantilly, the oldest church in Saumur. Tim & Emma went for Chinese-Vietnamese food; Abbey and I enjoyed a lovely bistro meal. We all met up for some Tira Misu, Mousse Chocolat, and coffee at another place. Such a hard life! Incredible thunderstorm that night – cooled off the temperatures as today was quite warm.

Sun., 31 August – Biking to Montsoreau
See separate blog post.

Mon., 1 Sept. – A Day Trip to Angers
See separate blog post.

Tuesday, 2 Sept. – Italy: Here We Come!
See separate blog post.