Tuesday, July 20, 2010
Return to Paderno
It's difficult to believe that we have been back in the States for over a year now -- and it's wonderful that we will be returning to Italy next January! Tim will be directing a UD Winter Session in Volterra (Tuscany) and in Paderno del Grappa, where I will be for the CIMBA spring semester. Will continue updates later as the Bell'Italia Blog is now re-activated!
Tuesday, April 20, 2010
Thursday, May 7, 2009
England!
Can't quite believe that it is now Thursday, 7 May! We have had an incredibly wonderful "jaunt" through England and Wales: 3 days in Winchester, where we visited the Norman Cathedral, the Great Hall (with the Round Table of King Arthur), and Chawton for Jane Austen's house; 2 days in Bath for more Austen and for the Roman baths and Gothic Bath Abbey; and Chepstow, Wales for Tintern Abbey, an ancient ruined castle, and lush Welsh countryside. Jen, Deena's friend from London, joined us there. We had a wonderful time together -- many laughs as we taught Jen the BS card game.
Now we are in York. Once a Celtic settlement that became in succession Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Viking, and finally Norman. The York Minster is larger than I remembered it -- and even more beautiful. Yesterday we went to Haworth, home of the Brontes. It was cloudy with spots of rain; looking over the moors, I could just imagine Heathcliff and Cathy walking the heather!
The highlight so far, though, has been reuniting with the family I lived with when I spent a summer here. Abbey played detective and found Malcom and Margaret's phone number. We have corresponded regularly but haven't spoken or seen each other for 37 years. They are all well, and I saw Sarah, their daughter who was 2 when I was here last, with her daughter, Tilly, who (as she put it) "used to be 3 but am now 4" in her lovely Yorkshire accent. She and Emma became buddies. After a visit at the home (I even remembered "my" bedroom), we had dinner at the local pub.
Today, Malcolm and Margaret are taking us to Scarborough -- one of my favorite places to go when I was here. There's now an aquarium there which Emma wants to visit, plus we'll see the castle. Late this afternoon, we will head to Stratford-upon-Avon to join Deena who is leaving for there this morning. Jen will be there with her 18-month old daughter, Zoe. No doubt another evening of laughter and fun.
I can't help but think how blessed we are with friends -- new and "old."
Now we are in York. Once a Celtic settlement that became in succession Roman, Anglo-Saxon, Viking, and finally Norman. The York Minster is larger than I remembered it -- and even more beautiful. Yesterday we went to Haworth, home of the Brontes. It was cloudy with spots of rain; looking over the moors, I could just imagine Heathcliff and Cathy walking the heather!
The highlight so far, though, has been reuniting with the family I lived with when I spent a summer here. Abbey played detective and found Malcom and Margaret's phone number. We have corresponded regularly but haven't spoken or seen each other for 37 years. They are all well, and I saw Sarah, their daughter who was 2 when I was here last, with her daughter, Tilly, who (as she put it) "used to be 3 but am now 4" in her lovely Yorkshire accent. She and Emma became buddies. After a visit at the home (I even remembered "my" bedroom), we had dinner at the local pub.
Today, Malcolm and Margaret are taking us to Scarborough -- one of my favorite places to go when I was here. There's now an aquarium there which Emma wants to visit, plus we'll see the castle. Late this afternoon, we will head to Stratford-upon-Avon to join Deena who is leaving for there this morning. Jen will be there with her 18-month old daughter, Zoe. No doubt another evening of laughter and fun.
I can't help but think how blessed we are with friends -- new and "old."
Sunday, April 26, 2009
Travels in France
Beaune, France in the Burgundy region is a delightful small city. Famous for being Burgundy's center of wine, it also has an interesting medieval hospital, Hotel-Dieu, that is now a social-history museum of medical practices, art, and life throughout the ages in Beaune. The weather was cooler than in Italy, but pleasant and sunny.
An exhausting day in getting to Beaune: on Thursday, we left Verona at 5:30 am to Milan where we caught a train to Chambery, France. We changed there to go to Lyon and finally, our last change -- to Beaune, arriving at 5 pm. We're getting to be experts at moving copious pieces of luggage from train to platform and platform to train. Most of the French stations have lifts, escalators, or ramps -- thank goodness. Once again, many people helped us, as we in turn helped others. Comfortable seats too on the SCNF system, something Trenitalia could offer!!!
Yesterday, we arrived in Caen, capital of Normandy. Enjoyed a wonderful dinner of mussels last night -- love being near the coast and seafood!! Today, we're off to encounter with a bit of history about WWII and a bit further back to William the Conqueror who was born here.
An exhausting day in getting to Beaune: on Thursday, we left Verona at 5:30 am to Milan where we caught a train to Chambery, France. We changed there to go to Lyon and finally, our last change -- to Beaune, arriving at 5 pm. We're getting to be experts at moving copious pieces of luggage from train to platform and platform to train. Most of the French stations have lifts, escalators, or ramps -- thank goodness. Once again, many people helped us, as we in turn helped others. Comfortable seats too on the SCNF system, something Trenitalia could offer!!!
Yesterday, we arrived in Caen, capital of Normandy. Enjoyed a wonderful dinner of mussels last night -- love being near the coast and seafood!! Today, we're off to encounter with a bit of history about WWII and a bit further back to William the Conqueror who was born here.
Tuesday, April 21, 2009
It's not that we don't want to come home; we just don't want to leave.
Difficult as it is to believe, the time has come to leave Paderno. The students have gone as have most of the faculty. We have said goodby to the CIMBA staff with promises to return.
Deena arrived on Thursday, and despite some rainy weather, we have taken her to Bassano, Venice, Crespano market, and today -- Asolo and perhaps Mt. Grappa. The highlight for her was the trip to San Lorenzo, about 2 hours from here; her parents were born there. More on that adventure later!
Tomorrow, we head to Verona and show Deena that beautiful city's highlights. She will then take an overnight train to London to visit her friend Jen for 5 days while the girls and I will explore Beaune in Burgundy, France and Caen in Normandy, France. Next Monday, we'll ferry to Portsmouth and meet Deena in Winchester. Then, all too soon, back to the States.
Much to update on the blog, but it might have to wait for awhile.
Deena arrived on Thursday, and despite some rainy weather, we have taken her to Bassano, Venice, Crespano market, and today -- Asolo and perhaps Mt. Grappa. The highlight for her was the trip to San Lorenzo, about 2 hours from here; her parents were born there. More on that adventure later!
Tomorrow, we head to Verona and show Deena that beautiful city's highlights. She will then take an overnight train to London to visit her friend Jen for 5 days while the girls and I will explore Beaune in Burgundy, France and Caen in Normandy, France. Next Monday, we'll ferry to Portsmouth and meet Deena in Winchester. Then, all too soon, back to the States.
Much to update on the blog, but it might have to wait for awhile.
Tuesday, April 14, 2009
Bologna – and that’s no baloney.
6-8 March
Okay, a very bad pun inspired in part by a travel writer’s comment that the mortadella here in Bologna is as distanced from American bologna as a Porterhouse steak is from a hot dog. In fact, this city is renowned for its cuisine, which from my experience, well-deserves the recognition.
The first extended travel weekend of spring semester! Students were once-again bound for various destinations: Paris, Amsterdam, London, Rome, Interlaken, the Cinque Terre, and others. Abbey headed south with friends to once again visit Roma, while Emma and I stayed closer to home: Bologna. Located in the Emilia-Romagna region between the Veneto and Tuscany, Bologna is home to the oldest European university, established in 1088. If the cuisine is a feast for the taste buds, the architecture is a feast for the eyes. Offering its pedestrian residents and tourists arched porticos with marble or stone sidewalks to explore the many shops and sights, the city features a variety of architectural styles and materials: from Romanesque to Gothic, from crenellated walls of dark brick to grey stone blocks.
We had an early start on Friday morning to get Abbey and Eric to their 6:13 train to Rome, where they would meet up Tori and Daniella and other friends. Emma and I left them at Padua, as we caught another train to Bologna. Arriving a little after 9, we found the hotel and asked if we could leave our luggage while we began exploring the city. However, our room was ready, and we had the luxury of unwinding a bit from the 4:30 am start to the day.
First on Emma’s list: food. I am not sure where this wisp of a child puts it, but I’m happy that she is so eager to try the various dishes and not be the typically picky “mac and cheese” kid! We walked down Via dell’Indipendenza, the main street leading to Piazza Maggiore, and then headed toward the University area. Emma ducked down each little alleyway, or viccola, checking out a ristorante here or trattoria there. Success – a small restaurant with Italian-only menu catering to locals, many of whom were enjoying a long end-of-the-week lunch. Tough decision: too many excellent selections. I settled on penne arrabiata (a red sauce flavored with hot peppers); Emma picked a creamy tortellini dish. Magnifico! This arrabiata (translated as “angry”) sauce was slightly different than what I have had elsewhere. In Florence and Rome, it was much hotter or spicier; here, more of the tomato flavor came through. Always interesting to compare the dishes from one region to another.
After lunch, we headed to Palazzo Poggi, part of the University museums. Once a palace and residence of one (or more?) church officials, it now houses an odd assortment of science-related exhibits. A collection of plant drawings and wood carvings, tortoise shells, fossils, and more comprised the work of an early naturalist (whose name escapes me) who would influence Linneas and Darwin in their studies. He wanted to catalogue all living things; while perhaps impossible to do, he certainly made a valiant attempt judging from this collection! Other sights include an anatomical area, perhaps a nod to the University’s having the top medical school in Italy. Here were wax models of the human body to teach students about anatomy and others that feature various birthing positions and complications for midwives to study (some with rather gruesome depictions that promptly led Emma to inquiring about her own birth – sigh!). A collection of medical instruments nearby looked more like weapons to me! Yet another section had various demonstrations of reflective/refracted light with mirrors and prisms, something that to this day still confuses me, which is probably why I studied literature and not science!
The highlight was an impromptu tour of the astronomy tower. As Emma and I were looking at a model depicting 17th century theories of volcanoes and the earth’s core, a woman asked us if we wanted to see the tower. Her rapid Italian lost me, but she spoke French as well and got the message through. (I have quickly learned that a second or third language can become the common mode of communication!) Heading up the turret steps, we saw the Meridian Room with its older instruments to study the planets and stars; the Globe Room with its 17th century terrestrial and celestial globes as well as some 17th century maps from a Chinese laboratory; and the Turret Room, where the telescopes were placed for scientists to observe and record their findings. Though only a little over 200 steps, this tower is significantly shorter than the Asinelli Torre, the taller of Bologna’s two leaning towers. Nevertheless, the rooftop presented a wonderful view of the city and the countryside beyond. As we descended, the University student guide explained that in 1790 and in this spiral stairwell, the Bolognese astronomer Guglielmini provided the first evidence of earth’s rotation. While the Renaissance produced incredible visual art and literature, the Palazzo Poggi reminds us of the period’s contribution to science as well.
Emma picked the restaurant for dinner, naturally. Wonderful pasta dishes. I ended with coffe while Emma splurged on some dessert. Where does this child put it?
The rain that had dampened spirits as well as shoes all week had been giving way to merely cloudy weather with a few peeks of the sun on Friday. By Saturday, the sun and warm temperatures asserted themselves fully, and we had a lovely day for exploring more of Bologna. First stop was Piazza Maggiore, the center of town. Its 16th century fountain statue of Neptune, Fontana di Nettuno, draws tourists and is a convenient meeting place. The Piazza was alive with people enjoying the day. Music and puppet shows were popular with the children (and adults!), and many people sat around reading or talking, taking in the spring temperatures.
The Basilica di San Petronius is on the Piazza. Its facade is an interesting architectural mix. In the early 1500's, funding for it was diverted elsewhere, leaving the odd combination of marble on the bottom and brick on the top. Evidently, this political diversion was one of the many reasons that Martin Luther reacted with his 95 theses.
Enjoying the day, Emma and I explored the streets before we had lunch at Ristorante Montegrappa (so good that we booked reservations for dinner there). After a brief rest, we went back for dinner and met a German couple who spoke English to the waiter since he did not know German nor they Italian. English is widely spoken and for many Europeans, it’s their second language. My Italian is still not good, yet. I really need to practice.
We had thought to stay another day and take a quick trip to Rapallo, but Emma wanted to get back. This trip was the first that I had used the automated ticket machines – they work wonderfully well! Available in all the major Western languages, they enable travelers to bypass busy ticket windows and to purchase during off hours.
Late that night, Abbey got in from Rome, having had a wonderful time. We exchanged stories, yawned, and finally went to bed. I was glad I didn’t have class the next day!
Okay, a very bad pun inspired in part by a travel writer’s comment that the mortadella here in Bologna is as distanced from American bologna as a Porterhouse steak is from a hot dog. In fact, this city is renowned for its cuisine, which from my experience, well-deserves the recognition.
The first extended travel weekend of spring semester! Students were once-again bound for various destinations: Paris, Amsterdam, London, Rome, Interlaken, the Cinque Terre, and others. Abbey headed south with friends to once again visit Roma, while Emma and I stayed closer to home: Bologna. Located in the Emilia-Romagna region between the Veneto and Tuscany, Bologna is home to the oldest European university, established in 1088. If the cuisine is a feast for the taste buds, the architecture is a feast for the eyes. Offering its pedestrian residents and tourists arched porticos with marble or stone sidewalks to explore the many shops and sights, the city features a variety of architectural styles and materials: from Romanesque to Gothic, from crenellated walls of dark brick to grey stone blocks.
We had an early start on Friday morning to get Abbey and Eric to their 6:13 train to Rome, where they would meet up Tori and Daniella and other friends. Emma and I left them at Padua, as we caught another train to Bologna. Arriving a little after 9, we found the hotel and asked if we could leave our luggage while we began exploring the city. However, our room was ready, and we had the luxury of unwinding a bit from the 4:30 am start to the day.
First on Emma’s list: food. I am not sure where this wisp of a child puts it, but I’m happy that she is so eager to try the various dishes and not be the typically picky “mac and cheese” kid! We walked down Via dell’Indipendenza, the main street leading to Piazza Maggiore, and then headed toward the University area. Emma ducked down each little alleyway, or viccola, checking out a ristorante here or trattoria there. Success – a small restaurant with Italian-only menu catering to locals, many of whom were enjoying a long end-of-the-week lunch. Tough decision: too many excellent selections. I settled on penne arrabiata (a red sauce flavored with hot peppers); Emma picked a creamy tortellini dish. Magnifico! This arrabiata (translated as “angry”) sauce was slightly different than what I have had elsewhere. In Florence and Rome, it was much hotter or spicier; here, more of the tomato flavor came through. Always interesting to compare the dishes from one region to another.
After lunch, we headed to Palazzo Poggi, part of the University museums. Once a palace and residence of one (or more?) church officials, it now houses an odd assortment of science-related exhibits. A collection of plant drawings and wood carvings, tortoise shells, fossils, and more comprised the work of an early naturalist (whose name escapes me) who would influence Linneas and Darwin in their studies. He wanted to catalogue all living things; while perhaps impossible to do, he certainly made a valiant attempt judging from this collection! Other sights include an anatomical area, perhaps a nod to the University’s having the top medical school in Italy. Here were wax models of the human body to teach students about anatomy and others that feature various birthing positions and complications for midwives to study (some with rather gruesome depictions that promptly led Emma to inquiring about her own birth – sigh!). A collection of medical instruments nearby looked more like weapons to me! Yet another section had various demonstrations of reflective/refracted light with mirrors and prisms, something that to this day still confuses me, which is probably why I studied literature and not science!
The highlight was an impromptu tour of the astronomy tower. As Emma and I were looking at a model depicting 17th century theories of volcanoes and the earth’s core, a woman asked us if we wanted to see the tower. Her rapid Italian lost me, but she spoke French as well and got the message through. (I have quickly learned that a second or third language can become the common mode of communication!) Heading up the turret steps, we saw the Meridian Room with its older instruments to study the planets and stars; the Globe Room with its 17th century terrestrial and celestial globes as well as some 17th century maps from a Chinese laboratory; and the Turret Room, where the telescopes were placed for scientists to observe and record their findings. Though only a little over 200 steps, this tower is significantly shorter than the Asinelli Torre, the taller of Bologna’s two leaning towers. Nevertheless, the rooftop presented a wonderful view of the city and the countryside beyond. As we descended, the University student guide explained that in 1790 and in this spiral stairwell, the Bolognese astronomer Guglielmini provided the first evidence of earth’s rotation. While the Renaissance produced incredible visual art and literature, the Palazzo Poggi reminds us of the period’s contribution to science as well.
Emma picked the restaurant for dinner, naturally. Wonderful pasta dishes. I ended with coffe while Emma splurged on some dessert. Where does this child put it?
The rain that had dampened spirits as well as shoes all week had been giving way to merely cloudy weather with a few peeks of the sun on Friday. By Saturday, the sun and warm temperatures asserted themselves fully, and we had a lovely day for exploring more of Bologna. First stop was Piazza Maggiore, the center of town. Its 16th century fountain statue of Neptune, Fontana di Nettuno, draws tourists and is a convenient meeting place. The Piazza was alive with people enjoying the day. Music and puppet shows were popular with the children (and adults!), and many people sat around reading or talking, taking in the spring temperatures.
The Basilica di San Petronius is on the Piazza. Its facade is an interesting architectural mix. In the early 1500's, funding for it was diverted elsewhere, leaving the odd combination of marble on the bottom and brick on the top. Evidently, this political diversion was one of the many reasons that Martin Luther reacted with his 95 theses.
Enjoying the day, Emma and I explored the streets before we had lunch at Ristorante Montegrappa (so good that we booked reservations for dinner there). After a brief rest, we went back for dinner and met a German couple who spoke English to the waiter since he did not know German nor they Italian. English is widely spoken and for many Europeans, it’s their second language. My Italian is still not good, yet. I really need to practice.
We had thought to stay another day and take a quick trip to Rapallo, but Emma wanted to get back. This trip was the first that I had used the automated ticket machines – they work wonderfully well! Available in all the major Western languages, they enable travelers to bypass busy ticket windows and to purchase during off hours.
Late that night, Abbey got in from Rome, having had a wonderful time. We exchanged stories, yawned, and finally went to bed. I was glad I didn’t have class the next day!
Bolzano in Spring
10-12 April
Since we had packed up almost everything in the apartment, the walls were bare and depressing, and the book shelves were empty. Students were off on the last travel break, a 4-day weekend, and the campus was deserted. Abbey, Emma, and I decided that we too needed to get away. While excited to see family, friends, and pets again, we find ourselves having a very difficult time preparing to say good-bye to Italy. We contemplated a number of inexpensive options – a road trip seemed good, and we settled on returning to Bolzano to enjoy it in spring. Abbey had not been here yet as she was in Switzerland when we came the end of November for the Christkindlmarkt. Emma was psyched since many of the hotels have spa facilities; Bolzano is near Gries, a famous spa town. We booked a two-night stay at Hotel Eberle which offered free whirlpool, Turkish steam bath, and sauna to its guests. The extras such as massages were tempting, but the budget didn’t allow for that. We picked a good time: rates were lower than usual as we were in-between the winter season (skiing) and summer season (hiking).
I printed out the driving directions, highlighting the key turns to get us to Hotel Eberle, which sits above the city, a quarter of the way up one of the mountains. The drive up was beautiful. We made it to Trento in about an hour and a half, navigated a rather tricky entrance onto the Italian autostrade, the A22, and 30 minutes later, we were entering Bolzano. All in all, we did well, with Abbey navigating very proficiently – only one wrong turn because of unmarked streets. Well, okay, two wrong turns if we count the adventure on the switchback road headed up toward one of the Dolomite peaks. The road from downtown Bolzano to the hotel made Asolo’s narrow streets seem like a major highway. Not only were they narrow (we carefully watched the mirrors and door handles in places), but they were also steep. At a couple of points, I began wondering about the angle and how close it was to 90 degrees. At what point will a car tip backward? Several sharp turns and extremely steep inclines later, we arrived. As I parked the car, I told Abbey and Emma that it was going to sit there until we had to leave. I don’t recall any arguments from them.
After checking in to a lovely room with a south-facing balcony over the city and beds with those incredible down comforters, we had some lunch. Grilled vegetables with melted cheese for me; risotto with fresh white and green asparagus for Abbey; and spaghetti with clam sauce for Emma. The house red wine, St. Magdalena, is lovely. Hotel Eberle has its own vineyards and herb gardens and sells the products to hotel guests and locals.
After lunch, we went on a 3-hour hike, and the path began at the hotel. We hiked up and down, then mostly down to Castel Roncolo, or Schloss Runkelstein in German. Bolzano is in the Alto-Adige or Sud-Tirol region of Italy. After WWI, it officially became a part of Italy; however, the Austrian-German culture remained strong. People speak both Italian and German here; the signage is bi-lingual as are schools. Bolzano is an old town, and, before the region was an official part of any country, it was dual-natured. In the Medieval period, it was a trading town, a mid-way point for what are now Italians and German-Austrians to meet fo exchange goods. While many people embrace the duality, some do not. I’ve noticed that those of German heritage tend to look down on those of Italian heritage. Also, the Italians were much friendlier and warmer than the Germans, who were always polite to us but rather distant.
Back to the Runklestein Castle (as it is known in English): We paid our fee, and as typical, the Italian-speaking staff let Emma go in free. (Italians love children and despite age classifications for tickets, they usually let any child younger than a mid-teen in free.) According to the brochure, it was built in 1237 and was home to rich Bolzano merchants. They were not royalty or noble; however, the Castle is famous for its incredible frescoes which are over 600 years old. They tell romance stories of Tristan and Isolde and of Arthur and Guinivere. While some have been damaged from weather, most are in incredible condition.
After the brief visit, we had some refreshments and set out to climb up and then climb down along the hiking path. I realized then how out of shape I had become over the winter. The trail was beautiful, though. We encountered frisky Italian Wall lizards; a rather impressive bee hive (whose owner was checking on it as we came back); spring flowers – including lilacs, wisteria, tulips, and iris; and vistas of nature that refreshed my soul in so many ways.
Back at the hotel, we donned our swim suits. “Never travel without one,” says Bill Buckley. Abbey reminded us of that before we left! We did the whirlpool, sunned a bit on the terrace, hit the Turkish steam room, whirlpooled some more. Ahhhhh. Herbal teas and sparkling/nature water were available. Luxury. As we enjoyed the hydro-therapy of the whirlpool, we took in the view of vineyards and farms on the smaller mountains and the snow-capped Dolomites above. Incredible.
We headed for dinner at 8 or 8:30 and decided to eat inside as the breezes had become chilly. Emma, the bottom-less pit, had entrecote (steak); Abbey had a tomato-mozzarella calzone; and I had a house specialty of white asparagus with some herbed potatoes and “Bolzano sauce” on the side. Bolzano sauce has chopped hard-boiled egg in a light mayonnaise sauce, but is not as rich or thick as an egg salad mixture that Americans are familiar with. We slept well!
Saturday, we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast and walked the ½ mile down into town; only problem was remembering that we had to walk UP to get back to the hotel. Piazza Walther was bustling with people. The warm, sunny day brought everyone out. Wisteria, lilacs, tulips – everything is in bloom. We spend most of the day strolling around town, visiting some stores of course, and looking inside the Duomo that was closed when Tim, Emma, and I were last here. A highlight on the piazza was an exhibition of photographs on billboard-displays that were about 3 x 6 feet in dimension. We had a blast taking pictures of us by them, pretending we were in the scenes.
The hike back reaffirmed my out-of-condition state, but I consoled my muscles with a long soak in the whirlpool and the Turkish steam room. We all enjoyed unwinding in the warm sun. Another wonderful dinner and fairly early bedtime – LOVE those down comforters!!!
Easter Sunday was warm and sunny, and after breakfast, I enjoyed hearing the church bells from many mountain churches as well as those in the valley. Perhaps they were timed with one another; perhaps, it was just coincidence. But the chimes and tolling seemed in harmony with one another, one answering the other.
We could have stayed another day, but work at home required that we leave. PDG had the same warm weather; we opened windows and let in the fresh air. It was good to be home again.
Since we had packed up almost everything in the apartment, the walls were bare and depressing, and the book shelves were empty. Students were off on the last travel break, a 4-day weekend, and the campus was deserted. Abbey, Emma, and I decided that we too needed to get away. While excited to see family, friends, and pets again, we find ourselves having a very difficult time preparing to say good-bye to Italy. We contemplated a number of inexpensive options – a road trip seemed good, and we settled on returning to Bolzano to enjoy it in spring. Abbey had not been here yet as she was in Switzerland when we came the end of November for the Christkindlmarkt. Emma was psyched since many of the hotels have spa facilities; Bolzano is near Gries, a famous spa town. We booked a two-night stay at Hotel Eberle which offered free whirlpool, Turkish steam bath, and sauna to its guests. The extras such as massages were tempting, but the budget didn’t allow for that. We picked a good time: rates were lower than usual as we were in-between the winter season (skiing) and summer season (hiking).
I printed out the driving directions, highlighting the key turns to get us to Hotel Eberle, which sits above the city, a quarter of the way up one of the mountains. The drive up was beautiful. We made it to Trento in about an hour and a half, navigated a rather tricky entrance onto the Italian autostrade, the A22, and 30 minutes later, we were entering Bolzano. All in all, we did well, with Abbey navigating very proficiently – only one wrong turn because of unmarked streets. Well, okay, two wrong turns if we count the adventure on the switchback road headed up toward one of the Dolomite peaks. The road from downtown Bolzano to the hotel made Asolo’s narrow streets seem like a major highway. Not only were they narrow (we carefully watched the mirrors and door handles in places), but they were also steep. At a couple of points, I began wondering about the angle and how close it was to 90 degrees. At what point will a car tip backward? Several sharp turns and extremely steep inclines later, we arrived. As I parked the car, I told Abbey and Emma that it was going to sit there until we had to leave. I don’t recall any arguments from them.
After checking in to a lovely room with a south-facing balcony over the city and beds with those incredible down comforters, we had some lunch. Grilled vegetables with melted cheese for me; risotto with fresh white and green asparagus for Abbey; and spaghetti with clam sauce for Emma. The house red wine, St. Magdalena, is lovely. Hotel Eberle has its own vineyards and herb gardens and sells the products to hotel guests and locals.
After lunch, we went on a 3-hour hike, and the path began at the hotel. We hiked up and down, then mostly down to Castel Roncolo, or Schloss Runkelstein in German. Bolzano is in the Alto-Adige or Sud-Tirol region of Italy. After WWI, it officially became a part of Italy; however, the Austrian-German culture remained strong. People speak both Italian and German here; the signage is bi-lingual as are schools. Bolzano is an old town, and, before the region was an official part of any country, it was dual-natured. In the Medieval period, it was a trading town, a mid-way point for what are now Italians and German-Austrians to meet fo exchange goods. While many people embrace the duality, some do not. I’ve noticed that those of German heritage tend to look down on those of Italian heritage. Also, the Italians were much friendlier and warmer than the Germans, who were always polite to us but rather distant.
Back to the Runklestein Castle (as it is known in English): We paid our fee, and as typical, the Italian-speaking staff let Emma go in free. (Italians love children and despite age classifications for tickets, they usually let any child younger than a mid-teen in free.) According to the brochure, it was built in 1237 and was home to rich Bolzano merchants. They were not royalty or noble; however, the Castle is famous for its incredible frescoes which are over 600 years old. They tell romance stories of Tristan and Isolde and of Arthur and Guinivere. While some have been damaged from weather, most are in incredible condition.
After the brief visit, we had some refreshments and set out to climb up and then climb down along the hiking path. I realized then how out of shape I had become over the winter. The trail was beautiful, though. We encountered frisky Italian Wall lizards; a rather impressive bee hive (whose owner was checking on it as we came back); spring flowers – including lilacs, wisteria, tulips, and iris; and vistas of nature that refreshed my soul in so many ways.
Back at the hotel, we donned our swim suits. “Never travel without one,” says Bill Buckley. Abbey reminded us of that before we left! We did the whirlpool, sunned a bit on the terrace, hit the Turkish steam room, whirlpooled some more. Ahhhhh. Herbal teas and sparkling/nature water were available. Luxury. As we enjoyed the hydro-therapy of the whirlpool, we took in the view of vineyards and farms on the smaller mountains and the snow-capped Dolomites above. Incredible.
We headed for dinner at 8 or 8:30 and decided to eat inside as the breezes had become chilly. Emma, the bottom-less pit, had entrecote (steak); Abbey had a tomato-mozzarella calzone; and I had a house specialty of white asparagus with some herbed potatoes and “Bolzano sauce” on the side. Bolzano sauce has chopped hard-boiled egg in a light mayonnaise sauce, but is not as rich or thick as an egg salad mixture that Americans are familiar with. We slept well!
Saturday, we enjoyed a wonderful breakfast and walked the ½ mile down into town; only problem was remembering that we had to walk UP to get back to the hotel. Piazza Walther was bustling with people. The warm, sunny day brought everyone out. Wisteria, lilacs, tulips – everything is in bloom. We spend most of the day strolling around town, visiting some stores of course, and looking inside the Duomo that was closed when Tim, Emma, and I were last here. A highlight on the piazza was an exhibition of photographs on billboard-displays that were about 3 x 6 feet in dimension. We had a blast taking pictures of us by them, pretending we were in the scenes.
The hike back reaffirmed my out-of-condition state, but I consoled my muscles with a long soak in the whirlpool and the Turkish steam room. We all enjoyed unwinding in the warm sun. Another wonderful dinner and fairly early bedtime – LOVE those down comforters!!!
Easter Sunday was warm and sunny, and after breakfast, I enjoyed hearing the church bells from many mountain churches as well as those in the valley. Perhaps they were timed with one another; perhaps, it was just coincidence. But the chimes and tolling seemed in harmony with one another, one answering the other.
We could have stayed another day, but work at home required that we leave. PDG had the same warm weather; we opened windows and let in the fresh air. It was good to be home again.
Wednesday, March 25, 2009
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 10
Spring is here in the Veneto. Though nights are often chilly, the sun warms the afternoons. Fruit trees are blooming as are spring flowers. Mt. Grappa is still snow-covered at the top, but below the tree line, green gradually emerges. Looking out our kitchen/dining room window, I see a neighbor work his garden patch in preparation for planting. I remember how full and bountiful it was last fall. Everyday, he was tending it diligently; with his work now, I am certain this year the garden will be as productive. Yesterday, he had it roto-tilled. I watched as the men, both of whom are probably in their late 60's, begin the process. Despite the handwork to turn over the ground, the roto-tiller caught several times, but working together, the men finished quite quickly, and the soil is now smooth and ready for planting. I’ll have to check today to see what is next. Tim was asking about him and the garden the other day; we both enjoyed watching the progress last fall.
It is travel week 2 this week. By late Friday, most of the students had left for various places; some planned to leave early Saturday, though we met Jonathan Holmes at the Sunday market. He was leaving for Palermo on Monday. Originally we had planned to go to Switzerland this week. However, a re-evaluation of the budget revealed that, with our France, England, and Wales tour at semester end, we should postpone expensive Switzerland for another time. Also, I looked at the stack of reports and other assignments on my desk, the uncompleted itinerary for France and the UK with Deena, and the dust bunnies no longer contained in the apartment’s corners – best to stay put, get work done, and tour locally. After all, the Veneto is a beautiful, diverse region – and spring is here.
Abbey, Emma, and I are also getting ready for Tim to visit. Emma has been e-mailing him lists of what to bring over, though I remind her that what comes here must go back, and with our 3-week trip through France and the UK before heading back to the States, she might want to consider luggage weight. Memories of our lugging 7 checked-in bags and 8 carry-on’s back in August quickly come to mind. “Lugging” – an appropriate term, no doubt from the word “luggage.” Yes, 15 bags in total we had. I don’t care what Rick Steves says; it is IMPOSSIBLE to pack for nine months of living abroad in a small carry-on, especially with school books. Nevertheless, traveling light is best. What we don’t need for our last few weeks here will go back with Tim or be shipped from the local post office. We will have to get organized and packed up to know what to send. Well, as Scarlet O’Hara would say, “I’ll think about that tomorrow.” Besides, it’s a warm, sunny day – and spring is here!
It is travel week 2 this week. By late Friday, most of the students had left for various places; some planned to leave early Saturday, though we met Jonathan Holmes at the Sunday market. He was leaving for Palermo on Monday. Originally we had planned to go to Switzerland this week. However, a re-evaluation of the budget revealed that, with our France, England, and Wales tour at semester end, we should postpone expensive Switzerland for another time. Also, I looked at the stack of reports and other assignments on my desk, the uncompleted itinerary for France and the UK with Deena, and the dust bunnies no longer contained in the apartment’s corners – best to stay put, get work done, and tour locally. After all, the Veneto is a beautiful, diverse region – and spring is here.
Abbey, Emma, and I are also getting ready for Tim to visit. Emma has been e-mailing him lists of what to bring over, though I remind her that what comes here must go back, and with our 3-week trip through France and the UK before heading back to the States, she might want to consider luggage weight. Memories of our lugging 7 checked-in bags and 8 carry-on’s back in August quickly come to mind. “Lugging” – an appropriate term, no doubt from the word “luggage.” Yes, 15 bags in total we had. I don’t care what Rick Steves says; it is IMPOSSIBLE to pack for nine months of living abroad in a small carry-on, especially with school books. Nevertheless, traveling light is best. What we don’t need for our last few weeks here will go back with Tim or be shipped from the local post office. We will have to get organized and packed up to know what to send. Well, as Scarlet O’Hara would say, “I’ll think about that tomorrow.” Besides, it’s a warm, sunny day – and spring is here!
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 9
This week the Intercultural Communications students are presenting (via slides) a comparison/contrast of Italian and American culture. Each student selected a topic and researched the differences and similarities between the two countries. Topics include government, sports, music, weddings, cuisine, nightlife, education, business, etiquette, fashion, holidays, television, immigration, and gender. It is often surprising what one learns by paying attention to the “everyday” aspects of life. As with other assignments for the course, this one too prompts discussion based on not only the researched information but also the personal experience of living in another country.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
Because the CIMBA experience recognizes the importance of learning outside as well as in the classroom, the directors and staff arrange tours of local companies; students are assigned to a tour based in part on their major. Business students usually visit a manufacturing or service company; communications and journalism students, organizations related to their fields. Ted Fredrickson, journalism professor, and I went with our group to Rete Venete, a television station in nearby Bassano del Grappa. I had the pleasure of visiting there last semester as well. We learned much about the television business from our tour and coupled with Alex Dufek’s report in class comparing and contrasting the industry in Italy and the States. Some of the interesting highlights: reporters work closely with police and other municipal departments for local news; the newscast lasts only 20 minutes, so concise writing is necessary; and while reporters are both male and female, only women are anchors for this station. The latter point, unfortunately, does not reflect a progressive step toward gender equity but a marketing decision based on the attractiveness of the women.
Our tour was scheduled for 11:00 in the morning, but we left earlier to explore the Thursday market in Bassano, always a treat. Though many of the students had been to this lovely city to catch a train, few of them had explored the town with its famous covered bridge designed by Andrea Palladio. The views from the bridge of the Brenta River and the Dolomites with Mt. Grappa in the background produced “ooo’s” and “aaaah’s.” Everyone dove for the cameras and positioned each other on the bridge; the local passer-bys were indulgent as always
Another highlight of this week was Gourmet Dinner 2. Between the end of the last class (4:45) and the 7:15 meeting time, much primping occurred, and based on everyone’s looks, both males and females primped. Many of the guys sported new suits, thanks to Al Ringleb and Cristina Turchett who drove them to a local store for beautifully tailored Italian suits at good prices. Aperitifs were outside under a canopy in the ristorante’s courtyard; dinner was in a spacious, warm dining room and was served just as a tremendous thunderstorm rolled in. Even with the noise of over 150 people’s conversations, we heard the booms and the rain pelting against the windows. No matter; we enjoyed tasty grilled vegetables, saffron risotto, roasted meat, and then dolci with chocolate sauce.
CIMBA Blog -- Updates on Campus Life, Week 6
January, February, and March are popular months at CIMBA for birthdays. Not only Abbey and Emma, but also Jessica Carrese, Tori Scheidt, Meaghan Hinder, Tommy Thompson, Matt Hanrahan, Marta Crabbia, Stephanie Herr, Graham Ryan, Kristina Rood, Kelly Heesch most of them in February. Who else am I forgetting? There were several more, surely. Anyway, we celebrated a few with “Happy Birthday’s” sung (usually in multiple keys at once) in classes or at lunch. Some we celebrated at the local pizzeria, Al Sole. Luigini, who owns it with her husband Fabbio, graciously lets us use a side room for larger get-togethers that we can decorate with balloons and Buon Compleanno (happy birthday) banners.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
Other activities included advisory nights. Each professor has about 14 students assigned to him or her, students who aren’t in the professor’s courses. The idea is to get different groups together to socialize and for teachers to know more students than those in their classes. On Wednesday, 3 March, my advisory group met for a night of pizza making in Asolo. There were 12 of us: Ali Bronska, Rachel Butler, Colleen Carlsen, Dan Cassis, Nate Danner, Amy Daughtery, Dana Dietrich, Ryan Driscoll, Matt Duncan, Cody Hutchison, Kathyrn Kolakowski, and Will Wilhite. Tess Montano, an MBA student at the Asolo campus, met us there to kindly translate for us.) Saverio, well-known for his pizza, opened his doors early for us to come and learn the art of good pizza and to experience making our own. Always a treat, this outing reveals the secret of Italian pizza: well-made dough; good, fresh topping ingredients; and an extremely hot wood-fired oven. The weather is a factor with dough, Saverio explains, as Tess translates. If the weather is damp, use less water with the flour, yeast, and salt; if it is dry, use more. He can form the dough in less than a minute, and no, tossing it up in the air is not an approved Italian method. Although the baking time depends on the toppings and the number of pizzas, most pizzas are ready in 3 minutes.
As students begin to make their own pizza, Angelo, one of the waiters, comes in. He adores Tess and remembers me from last semester. He pours us drinks while we watch the first three brave souls begin. “No, no, no,” exclaims Saverio, as he takes the dough and again shows how to spread it out without ripping it. After deliberating over topping choices, the first group has pizzas in the oven, and the next three go. We laugh at the “No, no, no” as these students too find that spreading the dough looks much easier than it is. Now, I have done this before, so one would think I’d have it down pat. But no, pizza making is not in my future. Saverio laughingly rolls his eyes at me, while Angelo just broadly smiles. No matter, my pizza comes out perfectly – and shaped into a heart, a finishing touch that Saverio does for all the women in the group. The men have the basic round shape!
Lest some of you think that all is fun and travel here, I can reassure you that the weeks between travel, advisory nights, and birthdays are packed with work. My Intercultural students have been reading Frances Mayes’ memoir, Under the Tuscan Sun. Although too young to yet appreciate Mayes’ recounting the frustrating but often rewarding efforts involved in renovating a home, they do understand the cultural experiences of living in another country. Sharing situations ranging from the humorous to the embarrassing in class, we examine the what’s and why’s of culture and the how’s of its being communicated. To name a few such occasions noted in class:
• being hushed at an opera in Vienna;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a compassionate Trenitalia conductor who got off the next stop just to frank the ticket;
• having an unfranked ticket checked by a grumpy Trenitalia conductor who wrote out a fine;
• reaching the correct train stop with the aid of an Italian who missed her own stop to help;
• experiencing shocked looks by a store clerk at your friendly “okay” hand gesture which does not signify “okay” in Italy.
In Business Communications, students have been working on profile reports of European-based organizations. Some are well-recognized, such as IKEA, Lindt, AC-Milan, Ferrero, BMW, Nestlé, Replay. Many are still family-run and managed, and some have local roots, such as Asolo-based Replay. With presentations ranging from chocolate to cars, shoes to soccer, we learned much about these companies and cultural elements of their business practices.
The library and computer lab are packed at night with students studying for exams and researching for projects. I go to campus at night sometimes to finish class prep that requires internet access and quietly observe. Some students collaborate on a case study or presentation at one of the large library tables; others patiently (or not!) wait in the lab for the internet to connect them to their home institution’s library databases; still others put finishing touches to a report or essay, hoping that the printer will cooperate one more time. Fun and travel, yes, but also much learning happens here, hands-on experiential learning that remains long after the exam or submitted paper is completed.
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